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Maybe need some heat...carb issue


laynrubber

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Tinkering with the 52 Plymouth now, it is sort of on the road. Awaiting a front end alignment still and the overdrive wired up. 
Anyway....this old heap has a dual header on it.....yeah I can't leave well enough alone biggrin.gif
Starts and idles fine, down the road it goes fine. 
Problem is the pulling away from a stop. It wants to stall out. Pull the manual choke on and it will idle away from that stop just fine. Without the choke you have to pump it and ride the clutch out...keeping revs up.
Am I loosing carb or intake heat with this header ?
Going to richen the accelerator pump squirt to max again. It was full rich and to test a fix I leaned it one hole.
Fully warmed up, driving around town for 30 minutes still the same snag.
Thought about a heat pipe from header to the base of carb.
Mrs ain't too impressed so far mad.gif

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First thing I would do is read the spark plugs, then pull out the vacuum gauge. Pulling the choke artificially restricts the air flow through the carb which covers a downstream air leak. While your header does not provide the intake heat the stock set up does, it should only be noticeable when temps go below the 40's or so.

I think you will probably find a low vacuum reading and a leak between the throttle plate and the block.

 

 

 

 

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My '38 Dodge has '51 218 in it. The car also has a split exhaust manifold with no heating under the carb. It is still running the '38 Stromberg carb with the accelerator pump set on middle hole.

The car starts, idles and runs through the range so well with this carb I can't bring myself to change it, there was no noticable change from running the heated normal exhaust. I have the later manifold for a larger late 40's carb, and a complete Edmunds dual intake with matching carbs and breathers.

Do you have vacuum wipers? If you do, have you tried blocking off that line? Is your accelerator pump working well?

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Well got some under the hood time after work after supper on the lake. Timing rechecked....it idles best at 4*, so no change there. All connections checked for torque, nothing loose. With it running I sprayed WD40 on carb base, intake gaskets and vacuum line.....anywhere there could be a leak and there was no change to rpm. Richened the squirt on accel pump but that didn't seem to change the snag either. Plugs were a shade whiter than I thought they should be. This is the same carb the engine has always had and before the rebuild it ran fine. Just with a gasket kit installed and a cleaning.
Any more ideas ?

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8 hours ago, laynrubber said:
Well got some under the hood time after work after supper on the lake. Timing rechecked....it idles best at 4*, so no change there. All connections checked for torque, nothing loose. With it running I sprayed WD40 on carb base, intake gaskets and vacuum line.....anywhere there could be a leak and there was no change to rpm. Richened the squirt on accel pump but that didn't seem to change the snag either. Plugs were a shade whiter than I thought they should be. This is the same carb the engine has always had and before the rebuild it ran fine. Just with a gasket kit installed and a cleaning.
Any more ideas ?

 

Yah like you were suggested, put a "vacuum gauge" on it, and report back your findings..

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ACCELERATOR PUMP !!

No squirty squirty, not sure why yet but the float level might be too low....raised it tonight and it started flooding out. There is a happy medium there I just need to find it. This is a new carb kit from a reputable supplier. The accel plunger is pliable and seems very serviceable, resistance when pushed down and does squirt when I push manually on the plunger with the carb top off.  Might be a spring or linkage issue but at least I know I need to get this fixed for sure...I'm sure this is the problem.

 

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