Jump to content

bearing cap washers


garyp

Recommended Posts

I am desperately looking for 2 bearing cap washers for my 39 Dodge flatty 6 these are the ones that go on the bolts that hold the bearing cap to the rod they are small and sit down in the bearing cap. If anyone has 2 of these please let me know and if you are close enough I will drive to get them or put them in an envelope and send them to me I will be happy to pay you my engine is done except for these 2 washers. Dpollo had sent me 2 of them but they are lost in the mail somewhere between Canada and here I gave him the wrong zip code [senior moment].  Thanks Gary   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like rekbender has what you need, Gary,    Too  bad the ones I sent you went into the twilight zone.   They were new, too.

Seems to me a written address and the correct postage should  oblige the carrier to deliver  but I have had similar problems here with Canada Post.  They don't have any problems taking your money though.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well Dpollo you know what is going to happen your washers and rekbender's  will show up the same day there is no doubt but whoever's get here last I will return. Thanks again for all the help..Gary 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Never mind about returning mine, the cost of the postage by far exceeds their value.  Hang them on the wall as a souvenir.  Good luck with your project and let us know when it is running.  dp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, Matt Wilson said:

Vintage Power Wagons also has new ones.  I just ordered a set of them and they arrived a couple of days ago.

Well, I spoke too soon.  I tried out the new washers I received from Vintage Power Wagons just now, on a 265 rod and a 230 rod, and they are not the right size.  They are a little too big.  I called VPW just now and they apologized and credited my card on the spot, and said I could return them whenever I get around to it.  I appreciate their good service.  I spoke with Jens (pronounced Yens) and he said he was pretty sure they have some of those washers, but he actually strongly recommends not using washers at all.  He said he recommends having the caps machined to remove the little recess where the washer goes and just use the stock nut directly against the cap, with no washer at all.  That is also what Steve from VPW had recommended to me a couple of months ago when I spoke with him about possibly wanting to buy washers.  I've been back and forth on this subject and I believe this is the path I'm going to take.  I spoke with George Asche, who has rebuilt hundreds of these engines over the course of nearly 70 years, and he said he has always used lock washers if the rods came with them, and never had an issue, but I've heard from other folks who have found broken washers when they disassembled their engines.  I don't think it happens that often, but it does happen.  They were lucky enough to find them before the joint started loosening, because once that happens, the bolt will almost certainly break before too long.  The bolt relies on the pre-load and if that drops much at all, then the bolt starts seeing loads it was never meant to see.  Jens at VPW says that Chrysler/Dodge did not use lock washers in their rods in later years, and that most of the rods he has seen, and has in his possession, do not have them, and do not have provisions for them.  I have one data point that agrees with that, which is my early 60's 251 (Power Wagons were still using the 251 through most of the 60's), which had no lock washers and no recesses for lock washers when I disassembled the engine, and I'm just about 100% convinced that the engine had never been torn down, so that was the factory original setup.

Anyway, my point is, you might consider having your rod caps machined to remove the recess for the washer, so those areas are flat, and then just run stock washers directly against the cap.  Torque them to the usual recommended torque (George Asche says he uses 45 ft-lbs, while all of my manuals says 45 - 50 ft-lbs, so there's some range).  George uses engine oil on the threads.  Jens at VPW uses Loctite.  I may use ARP Ultra-Torque fastener assembly lube, but haven't decide completely just yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does not ARP give different specs that are somewhat lower values because their tests show their lube is So slippery that using it with normal torque values will result in a over torqued condition??

 

DJ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use