keithb7 Posted July 9, 2017 Report Share Posted July 9, 2017 (edited) Hi kind folks. I was out test driving my 53 Windsor Deluxe tonight, after some recent major engine work. While I was in the engine last week, I installed a new 180F thermostat. I have drained and flushed the coolant a few times. It's coming out looking pretty good. The rad seems to be doing ok. I not sure what temperature drop I should be seeing from upper to lower tank. Looking down in the rad, it seems pretty clean. I have run 2 bottles of coolant flush through it so far in June. The car is still new to me, so it's full history is not known. I am considering pulling out the water distribution tube. I have no idea how clean or plugged it might be. I have a new water distribution tube here, all ready to go. Here is a video I took after climbing a decent hill tonight. About 1000 ft elevation gain. The temp gauge got pretty high. Here I am taking some measurements with my Digital Infrared Thermometer. Ambient air temp was about 80F. Comments from those with experience is appreciated. https://youtu.be/ZeyG_46U6CA Edited July 9, 2017 by keithb7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martybose Posted July 9, 2017 Report Share Posted July 9, 2017 You only had a 20 degree F difference from the top of the radiator to the bottom. The top reading wasn't bad, but my thought is that the bottom reading should be lower. My thought is that part of the radiator is plugged; has it been worked on at all? Marty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted July 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2017 Rad had not been worked on since I bought it in May. It does appear that at some point in the last few decades it has been serviced. I have no idea when. Maybe I will put it and get it serviced. That sure won't hurt anything. Then I know I'm good there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted July 9, 2017 Report Share Posted July 9, 2017 The radiator should produce a column of water about six inches high when full of water and the lower out let is quickly opened. That test establishes the flow through the rad is normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted July 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2017 I pulled the rad and filled it up. Seems ok. No? https://youtu.be/8J6Zy9FVLRo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Worden18 Posted July 10, 2017 Report Share Posted July 10, 2017 Here's my opinion on your radiator situation. If you're concerned about how clean it may or may not be, take it to a radiator shop and have them boil it out and pressure test it. A good shop will probably charge you about $60. Then you have peace of mind on it, period. The best you can do with the block is flush it and yes, you could pull the water distribution tube, but be forewarned they can be a pain in the *ss. Just sayin'. With that being said I don't think your car is running too hot. These old flatheads heat up when you climb hills or are at idle. I will use my own car as an example. I have recently rebuilt the engine (flathead same as yours; 51 Dodge) and had the radiator boiled/pressure tested/fixed. Of course the machine shop professionally cleaned my engine so the 65+ years of corrosion was removed, and the builder was able to remove the distribution tube as well (mine happened to be in great shape lucky me). The point I'm getting at is I started completely fresh with a brand new engine/radiator, etc.; everything clean. I went with the 180 thermostat as well, but I decided to go a different route on the coolant I used just because its my car and I can do whatever I want with it. So I chose Evans Waterless Coolant (google it if you've never heard of it; its been around for 15+ years). Its very expensive at $45 a gallon (cost me $180 to fill my car). But it is guaranteed the life of the engine and since there is no water in it, it will not corrode your radiator or engine block, and you never have to drain it or change it. Yes, you take the risk of losing it all if you have a leak you can't stop. I'm willing to take that risk. Anyway, the boiling point with this stuff is 375 degrees, so I'm not ever worried about the radiator boiling over. Okay, so with all of this being said, my car under normal conditions at 40-60 mph on a basic flat road in 60-95 degree outside temperature will run at or below 180 degrees. Pretty good considering I really have put it to the test with some of the 90+ degree temps we've had here in MN the last month. When the car is idling or, climbing a steep grade like you did with yours the temp will rise. It will rise about the width of the needle past the little dot on the temp guage (which is the 180 degree mark). Its normal for the temp to rise. If you bury the needle past the hot mark then I would say maybe you have to worry about it, otherwise expect some fluctuation. If I had your car this is what I would do: I would have that radiator boiled and pressure tested. Then you know where you stand. If you've flushed the block this is good. If you want to take the time and effort to do maintenance on the water dist tube, then I wish you luck. That would also be a good thing and would definitely help. Spending the money on Evans Waterless coolant is kind of a big decision; but there would be nothing wrong with using standard 50/50 premix in your car and just keep right on driving. I hope this helps. Not trying to be a know it all, just wanted to share what I have experienced as of late. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted July 10, 2017 Report Share Posted July 10, 2017 4 minutes ago, Worden18 said: Here's my opinion on your radiator situation. If you're concerned about how clean it may or may not be, take it to a radiator shop and have them boil it out and pressure test it. A good shop will probably charge you about $60. Then you have peace of mind on it, period. The best you can do with the block is flush it and yes, you could pull the water distribution tube, but be forewarned they can be a pain in the *ss. Just sayin'. Just make sure the shop doesn't over pressurize it. Depending on your car it could either be an open 0 pressure system or 4-7 pounds. Don't let them blow it up using the pressure of a modern radiator. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted July 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2017 @Worden18 Thank you very much for the feedback. I was hoping to hear from other vintage Mopar owners with the L6, and their temperatures. I have yet to find anyone around my town with any old L6 experience. Nor even another L6 Mopar owner. So I come here to enquire about any little concern I have. I have been busting my butt at every free moment trying to get the car reliable since I bought it in May. Pretty soon I can get out to some cruises and car shows and meet other vintage Mopar owners. I am still working out all the little bugs. The car is getting better every day. I've had about at least 6-8 breakdowns, or nursed it home in the past 12 road tests. LOL. Big improvements lately tho, as I flush out all the issues. Everyone's help here is very much appreciated. - Keith 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Roberts Posted July 10, 2017 Report Share Posted July 10, 2017 " I was hoping to hear from other vintage Mopar owners with the L6, and their temperatures. " My 218 runs at 160 degrees usually , 165 - 170 if I am stuck in traffic . My thermostat is a 160 . My radiator is aluminum and my hood is vented . You mentioned that some engine work was recently done , if your engine is ' tight ' your temps might come down a little when the engine parts are broken in . Some members have brought their temps down a little with Water Wetter . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted July 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2017 I have a couple of threads going here. It seems they are related. This one about the engine getting a little too warm for my liking, and another about possible fuel delivery. I addressed both it seems. A lean running engine runs hot too right? I found issues in my carb that I addressed. Which I suspect made it run lean under heavy load. I also pulled and flushed the cooling system, reassembled, and tested on the same hill again. Much better results. Engine stayed cool all the way up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Roberts Posted July 10, 2017 Report Share Posted July 10, 2017 Also some members have reported better temps with an adjustment of the timing . Looks like you may have solved the problem anyway . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dartgame Posted July 10, 2017 Report Share Posted July 10, 2017 Good you are using an infrared thermometer - excellent diagnostic tool. If you continue to have problems - check the actual opening temperature of the thermostat. I have seen very few stats that open at the temp stated. I'd bet that your 180 stat is opening at 190 to 195 F. I have seen this time and again. Most stats are inaccurate, the only type Ive found reliable are Robert Shaw style stats, but I still test them anyway. How to check ? Pull the stat out; put it in a pan of water and heat it on a stove gradually while stirring, checking the temp with an accurate thermometer. I use laboratory mercury thermometers to check mine. You may be astounded at what you find. Good luck. After several irritating experiences when I was young, I now never install a stat without checking the opening temp. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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