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Starting the dive into the deep water, front suspension.


48ply1stcar

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Headliner - Done; Leaf Springs and Shackles - Done; Front Supension

I have been working in the garage for 3 hours taking parts off.  I followed the steps and added some steps from a post that was re-posted by _shel_ny.  I don't know who originally posted the instructions, I'm just happy to have found instructions for coil spring removal.  I added some steps for removing the steering knuckle.

Blaa, Blaa other steps, Jacked up both sides and used 6 ton jack stands.  Loosened sway bar, removed Shock, brake drum and brake back plate.  Jacked up lower arm assembly, removed lower bolt through steering  assembly.  Lowered the jack removed upper bolt assembly.  coil spring came out easily with a little coaxing.

 

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Are you going to do a shock mount relocation while you have it torn down? It has been said many times that it improves the handling by a large margin.

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I had not considered a shock relocation.  

I can move (wiggle) the lower control arm, and barely move the upper control arm.  I'm ready to do the kingpins and replace all of the rubber seals.

Right now I'm trying to determine what parts need to be replaced. How can I tell if it is just the rubber seals or it's the metal bushings and bolts.

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If you can wiggle the lower arm then its a pretty safe bet that the lower inner pin & bushes need replacing, that's assuming this wiggle is with the lower arm undone at the outer bush............if the wiggle is with the arm still attached to both inner and outer then I'd be doing BOTH inner and outer bushes & pins...........whatever you do make sure to save the outer lower large seal with the "hex" internal shape......I have seen 2 different sizes of this "hex" seal and sometimes the replacement doesn't come with the seal or it may have the wrong size....either way this is really the only seal used on these front suspensions that is not able to be replaced by either a piece of rubber hose or even a very large "O" ring if need be...........if you have pulled the front end apart to this stage then I'd be considering just replacing every bush and pin as a matter of course, of course the cost is something we all have to consider which can slow down the rebuild...........have certainly been there myself..........lol...........btw it may help in the search for parts to know that the pins & bushes are the same 1941 to 1956, which may help when comparing prices etc............regards, andyd  

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Are you going to do a shock mount relocation while you have it torn down? It has been said many times that it improves the handling by a large margin.

what is required to relocate those shocks? 

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1 hour ago, pflaming said:

what is required to relocate those shocks? 

Do a search on here at the top right of this page and choose All Content then type in shock mount relocation and hit enter and it will give you multiple choices on the subject.

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Drove the wife to coffee Monday and she kept sliding across the seat in the curves.

Removed the kingpin from the steering knuckle yesterday.  Cleaning it up so I can have it "reamed" and then reassemble.

Also I pulled the trigger and brought the  entire front end package from Bernbaum.  I weighed the idea of buying everything for one side, then putting the best of all the parts and then buying what I needed to complete the second side.  Then when I think I've own the car for 49 years I figure I'll do it right for me and the car.

 

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Make sure those new kingpins will fit through the uprights before doing anything! Some of the reproduction stuff is 'iffy' when it comes to tolerances. Ask me how I know......

Edited by 50 coupe
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2 hours ago, 50 coupe said:

Make sure those new kingpins will fit through the uprights before doing anything! Some of the reproduction stuff is 'iffy' when it comes to tolerances. Ask me how I know......

Well I brought my kingpins to the GUY today, and they would not fit in the support.  bringing the old kingpin in tomorrow.  

Started taking apart the control arms.  What do I do if it's the treads in the control arms that is the worn the worst.

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This is really strange.......the kingpins don't fit thru the spindle?..............50Coupe had a similar problem recently........I'd be contacting Bernbaums straight away........doesn't seem possible that whoever made these could make them a few thou oversize, just doesn't make sense...........very disconcerting...........andyd 

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bad news, i also have to orde a kingpin set, anyone used the king pin set from rock auto ? ACDELCO 45F0025 {#88911828} Professional , the dimensions are the same as my old kingpins exept the length the old one is 135.5 mm

 

Professional
Bushings Included Yes
Washers Included Yes
King Pin Length 5.375 in
King Pin Length 136.525 MM
King Pin Diameter 0.796 IN
King Pin Diameter 20.22 MM
King Pin Material Steel
Bearing Included Yes
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Kingpin diameter from Bernbaum is .800, should be .795.  Called Bernbaum today and without hesitation they said they will send another set of kingpins.  I assume they mean the whole set.

I made the call from a casino while waiting for my wife to spend my 401k.  Maybe she got lucky? (I mean financially)

Edited by 48ply1stcar
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4 hours ago, Cudan said:

hi Harold,

did you receive the other kingpins ? and are the right ones  ? 

 

Dan

 

Yes, I did received replacement set and they did fit.  I brought the steering knuckle to a shop to ream the bushing to fit.  My control arms were sandblasted yesterday, ready for paint.  I have all of the parts and will reassemble when the paint dries.  The worst part was that I probably didn't need a kingpins, maybe just bushings.

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6 hours ago, 48ply1stcar said:

I brought the steering knuckle to a shop to ream the bushing to fit.  My control arms were sandblasted yesterday, ready for paint.  I have all of the parts and will reassemble when the paint dries.  The worst part was that I probably didn't need a kingpins, maybe just bushings.

was it easy to remove the old bushings ? because my old ones are properly fixed.

 

dan

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I suppose that since the kingpin bushings are bronze material which would be softer than the tool steel that the kingpins are made from, then the bushings would wear before the pins and in theory could be replaced rather than the pins but I would think that if you have a repair kit that had both bushes and pins then it would be a false economy to replace one and not the other...........whilst its not an overly difficult job it just doesn't make sense to me to just replace the bushes, I have never mic'd up old kingpins but have seen plenty with what appears to be wear and pit marks so its replace bushes &kingpins as a set for me.............andyd   

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3 hours ago, Cudan said:

was it easy to remove the old bushings ? because my old ones are properly fixed.

 

dan

Wasn't very hard to remove the bushings except one on the lower control arm.  But there is always one difficult bolt on every project.

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45 minutes ago, Andydodge said:

I suppose that since the kingpin bushings are bronze material which would be softer than the tool steel that the kingpins are made from, then the bushings would wear before the pins and in theory could be replaced rather than the pins but I would think that if you have a repair kit that had both bushes and pins then it would be a false economy to replace one and not the other...........whilst its not an overly difficult job it just doesn't make sense to me to just replace the bushes, I have never mic'd up old kingpins but have seen plenty with what appears to be wear and pit marks so its replace bushes &kingpins as a set for me.............andyd   

That is why I went ahead and am replacing all of the front suspension.  It will be first and last time I will ever have to do it.

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17 hours ago, 48ply1stcar said:

Wasn't very hard to remove the bushings except one on the lower control arm.  But there is always one difficult bolt on every project.

Hi Harold,

 

I ment the kingpin  bushings, but today i hamered them out with the help of a socket.

 

 

kingpinbushingeruit.jpg

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