Don Coatney Posted June 21, 2017 Report Share Posted June 21, 2017 If there are not enough options already here is another. These ribbed hoses will not collapse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 21, 2017 Report Share Posted June 21, 2017 too many options were given I think.....lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingster Posted June 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2017 Hey Don, that looks exactly like the remains of one end of the lower hose that I took off. I see Gates on the label. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertKB Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 (edited) ["RobertKB, Did your hose have any type of reinforcement? The hose I ordered and refused was a thin-walled non-reinforced hose. Where did you get yours?"] -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I do not believe they have any reinforcement. They are moulded hoses for other vehicles that had the right curve for where I was going to use it. I bough it at a local auto parts supply store and they took the time to find one with the right curve. Not even sure of the brand but they were not thin walled, just good quality rad hoses. Edited June 22, 2017 by RobertKB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingster Posted June 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 I just ordered a Gates hose from a local vendor and will pick it up Friday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 On 6/16/2017 at 8:07 PM, Bingster said: That's an interesting point. This flush is just an initial cleaning of the cooling system prior to firing the engine up and after seven years. So I'm not too particular what hoses I use just as long as they do the job for now. Those stainless elbows are very expensive, and they aren't in the budget right now. I did find the lower hose at a Napa. They had to order it. $17.95. In tomorrow. Now, do you think the pump will collapse the new hose the first time out? I see Bernbaum has the elbow but it's a bit pricey for me at the moment. I'll go back and go through the cooling system piece by piece once I know how the engine runs. Just a thought. I am not one whom likes to do things twice or more. Why not do it right the first time. If you are broke down on the side of then road a temporary fix might be in order. But why spend money on a band aid when starting from scratch? This is just my opinion and not meant to be offensive. But it seems spending the money now to do it correctly will save money in the long haul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingster Posted June 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2017 Well, at this point of my restoration, I want to get the engine fired up after seven years and see what I've got. My plan is to flush out the engine just as a kind of "courtesy" to the engine, rather than start it with more crud in it than there needs to be. My original intention was to get some hoses just to do the job now and replace with new when the time comes, which is a ways off. I had settled on the stainless tube arrangement after weighing all the input here, but after seeing the Gates hose Don posted and a couple other guys who said their hoses worked okay, it seemed to me that for the money and time, the Gates will get me where I want to go for now. After I flush the engine they won't be needed for awhile. Once my mechanic and I see that the engine is okay, then I'll go back and do the water pump, water distribution tube, Welch plugs, etc. and then do for the SS tube set-up. Actually, the upper hose I bought is a keeper, but it's also an easy straight shot into the thermo cover. Just flushing the engine is rather exciting for me. It's the first "engine work" that I've done. The guy I bought the car from said he did a compression test when he had the car and it was good. He'll do another one. I've been pouring motor oil and Marvel Mystery oil into the cylinders for a long while now, buying the components piece by piece as I had the cash: coil, plugs, plug wires, battery cable, etc. I'm very anxious to see what happens when I press that button. That's why he'll also be there to diagnose any problems with the carb or points or whatever. I do have a lot of the steel parts finished like the floor pan, radiator shields, engine compartment fender shields and all of the garnish moldings are in primer awaiting wood graining. I found a primo NOS chrome Goddess hood ornament and have a lot of other chrome parts replaced or restored. I do what I can when I can, so it's kind of a disorganized organization. I fabricate what I can't find anywhere, like this rusted out floor pan access cover. Thanks to everybody for the help. I appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
medium_jon Posted June 23, 2017 Report Share Posted June 23, 2017 @Bingster: nice fab work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted June 23, 2017 Report Share Posted June 23, 2017 2 hours ago, Bingster said: Well, at this point of my restoration, I want to get the engine fired up after seven years and see what I've got. My plan is to flush out the engine just as a kind of "courtesy" to the engine, rather than start it with more crud in it than there needs to be. My original intention was to get some hoses just to do the job now and replace with new when the time comes, which is a ways off. I had settled on the stainless tube arrangement after weighing all the input here, but after seeing the Gates hose Don posted and a couple other guys who said their hoses worked okay, it seemed to me that for the money and time, the Gates will get me where I want to go for now. After I flush the engine they won't be needed for awhile. Once my mechanic and I see that the engine is okay, then I'll go back and do the water pump, water distribution tube, Welch plugs, etc. and then do for the SS tube set-up. Actually, the upper hose I bought is a keeper, but it's also an easy straight shot into the thermo cover. Just flushing the engine is rather exciting for me. It's the first "engine work" that I've done. The guy I bought the car from said he did a compression test when he had the car and it was good. He'll do another one. I've been pouring motor oil and Marvel Mystery oil into the cylinders for a long while now, buying the components piece by piece as I had the cash: coil, plugs, plug wires, battery cable, etc. I'm very anxious to see what happens when I press that button. That's why he'll also be there to diagnose any problems with the carb or points or whatever. I do have a lot of the steel parts finished like the floor pan, radiator shields, engine compartment fender shields and all of the garnish moldings are in primer awaiting wood graining. I found a primo NOS chrome Goddess hood ornament and have a lot of other chrome parts replaced or restored. I do what I can when I can, so it's kind of a disorganized organization. I fabricate what I can't find anywhere, like this rusted out floor pan access cover. ybody for the help. I appreciate it. Now I understand. For my initial block flushing I used some used 10 foot hydraulic hosed that I got for free and ran them into a trash can. Once everything ran clear I connected the radiator and continued to run the engine for several hours on the live test stand to sort out a few bugs. B y doing this the engine was ready to drive once it was installed in the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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