Blaine Posted June 14, 2017 Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 (edited) Greetings Everyone, I'm in the process of building my Scarebird front drum to disc conversion kit. In doing so I'd like to use my original M/C as my 49' just doesn't seem to have room for an aftermarket power booster mounted next to the frame and it has wierd angles at the fire wall for a more modern style power booster to be tough to mount. To keep things simple I'd like to use the manual original style M/C but have concerns about if the original style M/C has residual valves inside it's assymbly. I've heard residual vavles are a no no for disc drums and only good for drum type set ups. I expect to also use rubber style hose fittings at the calipers for the front as this supposidly allows the release of braking pressure from the pads. Does anyone know if the guts of these manual M/C have residual valves?, and if so do I just unscrew the large flat bolt at the brake line out portion of the M/C to get to these? I recieve a comment when emailing the Scarebird LLC team and they stated as long as I remove the gront proportioning valves from the M/C I'd be good to go. I just never heard of the proportioning valves residing inside the M/C and only rarely seen them on cars to which they where installed along the line of the brake line near the drum. Thanks Guys! Blaine Edited June 14, 2017 by Blaine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 14, 2017 Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 you will need to pull the internal residual...and in doing so and going to disc with the caliper higher than the reservoir, you will want a 2 lb residual in the front before the T to the rear a 10 lb inline before the T at the axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted June 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 Is ten in the rear for disc or drum set up? I intend on keeping the drums in the rear until I find an axle that'll have disc or convert easily to one. So will that 10 lb inline for the rear be similar or the same of what the M/C had for lbs internally for the rear drums? Thanks PA so far for the good info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 14, 2017 Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 (edited) as you did not say disc at all 4 corners the 10 lbs advice is assuming drum still in the rear....the residuals are needed as stated due to the MC being lower than the calipers....the removal of the internal residual in the MC is what makes it necessary to ad external 10 inline to the rear...and while it serves the same purpose....the new residual is external and ainline Edited June 14, 2017 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted June 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 Ooops just researched it! 10 lbs risdual valves are for drum to compensate for the spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted June 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 It'll stay drum in the rear if it performs well up front. The search for an axle at the correct width and bolt pattern for the original wheels are going to be tough if not just completly one off custom for everything to fit right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonstop Posted June 15, 2017 Report Share Posted June 15, 2017 Don Coatney has a list of suitable axles he has posted before, if you do a search. It lists axles and widths. I have added a more modern dual reservoir master cylinder with a kit from ECI, and was able to add a power booster while I was at it with an adapter from Speedway, and it works well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted June 15, 2017 Report Share Posted June 15, 2017 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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