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Leaf Spring vs Big Hammer.


48ply1stcar

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I started leaf spring removal about three hours ago.  Everything came off with a 1/2 drive ratchet, except the nut on the front bolt.  Now the nut is off and I need to remove the bolt.

I started with a small ball-peen hammer, then moved up to a block of wood and a 5-pound hammer.

I have to start the grill so I soak the bolt first and see if that works after supper.

Any suggestions? it's hard to get a 16-pound sledge hammer in there without nicking the paint.

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You could always use a cut off wheel or reciprocating saw and cut bolt right off just inside the shackle then get a new bolt for the new spring.  I did this on a '65 Mustang a few years ago.

Edited by busycoupe
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The shackle came off easy.  I'm just frustrated removing the bolt at the front of the spring in the silent-block.  I don't want to mess up the front bracket.  If I could get the bolt started I would continue with a punch. Also looks like I need to cut new threads on shock mount.

shackle.jpg

Shock mount.jpg

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Not sure if it's the case with yours or not, I've ran into it where one side of the mount is threaded and the nut is just to keep it from backing out.

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24 minutes ago, plyroadking said:

Not sure if it's the case with yours or not, I've ran into it where one side of the mount is threaded and the nut is just to keep it from backing out.

Well just in case the mount is threaded maybe I do the other side.  This afternoon I checked if I was going to have the same problem,  I was able to turn the bolt and nut.  So I'll do the Passenger side and come back and finish the Driver's side.

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Passenger side leaf spring removed tonight, came off nice and easy.  

Bought a small air-hammer for the front bolt on the Driver's side, didn't budge.  Tried a reciprocating saw,  I think I loss more blade than bolt.  

Tomorrow I'll try heat on the bracket.

Edited by 48ply1stcar
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You already tried more hammer, heat would probably be the next thing to try.  If those are high-grade bolts a sawz-all won't hardly even scratch them.  

A few years back I ran into a similar problem on my Jeep when removing the lower control arms.  Nut came off easy, but that bolt . . . I pounded the ever-living hell out of it, and with the Jeep up on a lift I really had room to swing hard, it would not budge one bit.  I thought vibration from an air hammer would help, nope.  The housing was shaped such that I could get the hooks of a gear puller on it, tried using that to force the bolt out, ended up bending the shaft of my gear puller.

7" angle grinder with a cutting disc finally did the trick.  Got a new bolt at Ace Hardware for a couple bucks.

 

 

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heating the bolt will break down (melt) the silent block that is the isolation insert in the spring eye...If you have intentions of replacing this silent block then flame-on  unlike later mopar cars this forward mount is riveted and not bolted in place...try not to damage the bracket....think you having fun now..wait till you work on removing the silent block...

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9 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

heating the bolt will break down (melt) the silent block that is the isolation insert in the spring eye...If you have intentions of replacing this silent block then flame-on  unlike later mopar cars this forward mount is riveted and not bolted in place...try not to damage the bracket....think you having fun now..wait till you work on removing the silent block...

New springs include silent block.  I wish that I had taken pictures of the springs prior to starting this.  The springs were bent the wrong way both in front and behind the axle. when the car was on the hoist the springs were only bent the wrong way behind the axle.  It's 90 degrees right now so I'm only looking at the car form the kitchen.

 

leaf springs.jpg

car in the shade.jpg

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was not aware of new springs in the mix...this is a slam dunk....and yes, not long back I changed a set of springs that were old and tired and arching in the negative direction.  As it turned out when removed I was able to get a better look at actual broken leaves in the mix...used a set form a 7 year newer car that were still in great shape

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Hoarder...!!!!!

I will tell you this....even with a shop...rainy days are still no fun....try welding with the blue tip inside, even with exhaust fans a-blowing drafting your fumes etc out the building...your close proximity to the flame and the weld bead, you will fog you lenses just way to quick/often to make it a fun job...when the fun is gone time to walk away and do something else and await better humidity conditions...I managed to get a number of patches welded in place during our recent wet spell...but my touch time was greatly reduced due to the fogging.

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The canopy was shredded on the North side, the side closest to the garage.  Out of fear of more hail I was able to install cut out that last bolt and install the leaf springs by 10PM.  Put the car in the garage put stuff away for my so my wife could put her car back int the Queen's stall.

Taking a break, before I go back over the nuts and bolts and then starting on the king pins. New coil springs, bushings and other broken things along the way. 

Pictures tomorrow.

Edited by 48ply1stcar
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Disassembled and reassembled  the shackles today, gee using white lithium grease helps quite a bit.  Never thought of it or saw mention of its use.  Additionally, I double checked the plate and u-clamp bolts.  I could use new u-bolts, front end work is next.

 

new springs and shackles.jpg

springs and shackles.jpg

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