bambamshere Posted June 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2017 So I took the new oil that I just put the 10W30 to change it to the 15W40 and the 10W30 is black already. It ran for like 20 minutes 2 days ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted June 8, 2017 Report Share Posted June 8, 2017 Okay don't get too fired up about oil. Just get some 15 W 40 Heavy Duty, like Rotella or Delo or Castrol 20 W50. Or what 4mula suggested a straight weight 40 oil. All this bull$hit over detergents and such is mostly BS, drop the oil pan clean it out, clean out the valve chambers and run good oil in the viscosity mentioned, you will be fine.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted June 8, 2017 Report Share Posted June 8, 2017 1 minute ago, bambamshere said: So I took the new oil that I just put the 10W30 to change it to the 15W40 and the 10W30 is black already. It ran for like 20 minutes 2 days ago. Yup, carbon and such in suspension. Drop the oil pan and clean it out, it is an easy job. For now run some new oil, clean out the filter housing, if you didn't black oil was now introduced in the oil pan. Change to 15 40 or 20 50 for the summer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bambamshere Posted June 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2017 I do have one last question. I bought a gasket kit for oil pan the other day. Would you put some gasket gunk on them or just put gaskets on to it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted June 8, 2017 Report Share Posted June 8, 2017 I use gasket sealant on the gasket to the pan, then let set, I use grease on outer side of gasket that attaches to the block. Do not trim the end pieces that overlap, they are supposed to be that way. If you need to drop the pan again, having grease on the outerside to the block makes this possible. Take pics and post them...an easy job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bambamshere Posted June 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2017 Guess I'm going to get gasket sealer anything that is good to use. For that type of stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted June 8, 2017 Report Share Posted June 8, 2017 1 hour ago, bambamshere said: Ok not here to step on anyones toes. Sorry you didn't say that. You posted a link. My apologies. Ok.There is no problem.I only used 20W-50 oil in my olds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted June 8, 2017 Report Share Posted June 8, 2017 1 hour ago, 55 Fargo Spitfire said: I use gasket sealant on the gasket to the pan, then let set, I use grease on outer side of gasket that attaches to the block. Do not trim the end pieces that overlap, they are supposed to be that way. If you need to drop the pan again, having grease on the outerside to the block makes this possible. Take pics and post them...an easy job Can you explain how leaving those pieces un-trimmed on the pan ends could even remotely seal? Mine stuck out about 1 1/2 inches on each side, it would never seal, nor would I ever get the bolts in that way. Use aviation gasket makes or a similar brush on products on the pan and pan side gasket, and if you want on the block side gasket...for the two end pieces, you trim those to be the same height as the side gaskets installed and use ultra black or blue rtv silicone between the two gaskets, not a lot, just enough to seal the seam. Do not use the rtv on the whole gasket area...don't ask my why, but rtv does not deal properly when used between a gasket . I just did my pan last week, no issues. For cleaning out the engine, get it warmed up and drip Marvel Mystery Lube down the carb while you control the throttle to keep it running. Don't over flood it to start with and do it outside where you have lots of air...your going to get some pretty dirty exhaust while doing this. I do this for about 5 minutes, or until the exhaust smoke starts to come out cleaner, then I flood the engine out with the MML (don't hydrolock, just flood out) then let it site for a couple hours...start up, let it clean itself out and then I run a bit in every tank and a little in my oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted June 8, 2017 Report Share Posted June 8, 2017 (edited) 44 minutes ago, 4mula-dlx said: Can you explain how leaving those pieces un-trimmed on the pan ends could even remotely seal? Mine stuck out about 1 1/2 inches on each side, it would never seal, nor would I ever get the bolts in that way. Use aviation gasket makes or a similar brush on products on the pan and pan side gasket, and if you want on the block side gasket...for the two end pieces, you trim those to be the same height as the side gaskets installed and use ultra black or blue rtv silicone between the two gaskets, not a lot, just enough to seal the seam. Do not use the rtv on the whole gasket area...don't ask my why, but rtv does not deal properly when used between a gasket . I just did my pan last week, no issues. For cleaning out the engine, get it warmed up and drip Marvel Mystery Lube down the carb while you control the throttle to keep it running. Don't over flood it to start with and do it outside where you have lots of air...your going to get some pretty dirty exhaust while doing this. I do this for about 5 minutes, or until the exhaust smoke starts to come out cleaner, then I flood the engine out with the MML (don't hydrolock, just flood out) then let it site for a couple hours...start up, let it clean itself out and then I run a bit in every tank and a little in my oil. Oh okay, well, you trimmed them, I did not as per instructions on here and in shop books. 4mula read this thread as to why you do not trim the gaskets, I had a small amount of extra gasket, you are instructed not to trim these, but maybe in your case you had no choice. The MMM or Seafoam treatment, supposedly going to clean up the top end this way, I have my suspicions on this , but hey it might work, as does water. Now adding this to the oil is a different movie, allowing this to run through, and then drain and clean up oil pan etc. Okay so you had a lot of gasket material to trim, me, never the case in the last 4 I did, not sure what was different, I used fel pro gaskets.... On Aviation gasket sealer or Permatex #2, I only do the gasket to the pan, then grease outer side to the block, has worked very well in my cases. At any rate, pull the pan, do the treatments to clean up things and be a happy engine....good luck take pics keep us posted, and always conclude your threads, for future reference, and/or entertainment.....LOL Edited June 8, 2017 by 55 Fargo Spitfire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis46PU Posted June 8, 2017 Report Share Posted June 8, 2017 Forgot to mention, I dump a bottle of STP in from time to time also. Either that or Lucas oil stabilizer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted June 8, 2017 Report Share Posted June 8, 2017 Use the Lucas with the zddp additive and your good to go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bambamshere Posted June 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2017 So I just finished putting the oil pan back on. Twice I tried to take pictures and both times my phone died on me. I cleaned about a inch of sludge and stuff out of bottom of pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted June 9, 2017 Report Share Posted June 9, 2017 46 minutes ago, 4mula-dlx said: Use the Lucas with the zddp additive and your good to go You should read this thread. Its all about ZDDP, modern oil, flat tappet wear facts and fiction, opinions and conjecture. Blues4u, is posting in this thread, he is an oil engineer expert, and dispels a lot of bull$hit and presents facts, with fact based analysis. Its a good read, enjoy. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/zddp-again.1057854/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bambamshere Posted June 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2017 Ok I will read in a few thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T120 Posted June 9, 2017 Report Share Posted June 9, 2017 ...Maybe the time has come to bring back Royal Triton motor oil for the collector car market. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted June 9, 2017 Report Share Posted June 9, 2017 1 hour ago, 55 Fargo Spitfire said: You should read this thread. Its all about ZDDP, modern oil, flat tappet wear facts and fiction, opinions and conjecture. Blues4u, is posting in this thread, he is an oil engineer expert, and dispels a lot of bull$hit and presents facts, with fact based analysis. Its a good read, enjoy. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/zddp-again.1057854/ I've read some of the fables in past...experience tells me modern oil is not always what the commercial says it is, and these old engines can use all the help we can give them...nobody is forcing anyone to buy anything, but I wouldn't run without it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bambamshere Posted June 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2017 (edited) Ok so I have filled with 15W40 my oil pressure went up at idle. From 20 pounds to 50 and it stays there. But there is a nasty squeak when it is running and it sounds like its going to stall but doesn't. The squeak is coming from the top of the engine. Wonder if a oil stabilizer would help with that. I did also notice when I had the pan off yesterday some scoring on the crankshaft. Probably be good at somepoint to take top off and check the valves and I think this engine needs a good timing. Wow just read that back. I'm all over the place. Edited June 9, 2017 by bambamshere Changing some mistakes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted June 9, 2017 Report Share Posted June 9, 2017 From my WWII GMC 1944 manual.Hope this help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted June 9, 2017 Report Share Posted June 9, 2017 2 hours ago, bambamshere said: Ok so I have filled with 15W40 my oil pressure went up at idle. From 20 pounds to 50 and it stays there. But there is a nasty squeak when it is running and it sounds like its going to stall but doesn't. The squeak is coming from the top of the engine. Wonder if a oil stabilizer would help with that. I did also notice when I had the pan off yesterday some scoring on the crankshaft. Probably be good at somepoint to take top off and check the valves and I think this engine needs a good timing. Wow just read that back. I'm all over the place. Get the Marvel Mystery oil and do the procedure I listed down the carb, clean those valves out and it might stop, but also put some in the crankcase and the Lucas additive if you have...if this engine sat for a long time, it could have some severe varnish and carbon build up..best to clean that out before running it too much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bambamshere Posted June 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2017 That mystery oil stuff not sure if you can get in Canada or does anyone no. I searched and it came up with states locations. Not sure what I can use up here for that type of stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted June 9, 2017 Report Share Posted June 9, 2017 1 hour ago, bambamshere said: That mystery oil stuff not sure if you can get in Canada or does anyone no. I searched and it came up with states locations. Not sure what I can use up here for that type of stuff. Go To Minot, Grand Forks or Fargo ND to any Wal Mart, or go and buy Seafoam at Canadian Tire or Piston Ring stores Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted June 9, 2017 Report Share Posted June 9, 2017 Better yet, run good oil, in the right viscosity, and don't worry about the snake oil..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted June 10, 2017 Report Share Posted June 10, 2017 1 hour ago, 55 Fargo Spitfire said: Better yet, run good oil, in the right viscosity, and don't worry about the snake oil..... If you've never used it, I guess you can't know it's benefits...oil alone isn't going to do anything for intake carbon build up, or varnished and stuck rings. They sell it at Canadian tire and Walmart here in Manitoba...or at least the Brandon one does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted June 10, 2017 Report Share Posted June 10, 2017 1 minute ago, 4mula-dlx said: If you've never used it, I guess you can't know it's benefits...oil alone isn't going to do anything for intake carbon build up, or varnished and stuck rings. They sell it at Canadian tire and Walmart here in Manitoba...or at least the Brandon one does. Are you talking about STP, Lucas Oil stabilizer, MMM or Seafoam used them all still use Seafoam in the gas for my flathead, small engines etc I do not put additives in my Oil, do not see the value.Sorry have no idea if Wal Mart Or CT stock and sell MMM, Costco does by the case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted June 10, 2017 Report Share Posted June 10, 2017 2 minutes ago, 55 Fargo Spitfire said: Are you talking about STP, Lucas Oil stabilizer, MMM or Seafoam used them all still use Seafoam in the gas for my flathead, small engines etc I do not put additives in my Oil, do not see the value.Sorry have no idea if Wal Mart Or CT stock and sell MMM, Costco does by the case He's asking about Marvel availability in Manitoba... Additives in oil can most definitely help when he's having the issues he is, and unless your doing something wrong, they can't hurt, only help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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