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28 Chrysler 25" Engine tear down and rebuild


maok

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You most likely will have to go by bolt grade/ size and threads per inch.

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9 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

You most likely will have to go by bolt grade/ size and threads per inch.

 

I have torqued it to 55ft lb with some threadlocker and it also has a star washer.

 

I am having second thoughts about the rod stud nuts at about 30-35ft lb. They are only a 3/8" stud though.

Edited by maok
grammar
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Yesterday I did a test with a spare rod bolt and nut, threads started giving way at about 45ftlb so I am sticking with the 30-35ftlb.

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Made the decision on the rear crank cap seal, cork with high temp RTV. This area will need more RTV when I install the sump.

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Installed the oil pump today. Packed some Vaseline into it and made sure the slot for the distributor was align correctly at TDC. The slot needs to be parallel to the engine line when #1 piston is at TDC on the firing stroke. This aligns the distributor rotor at about 2pm on the cap which is the #1 spark plug.

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Looking at the cutaway diagram in the manual, it looks like priming the oil galleries with oil wont much of an issue. Middle pointer of #19 is the outlet for the oil pressure gauge and oil filter tubes, if I pour oil down here it should reach most of the galleries including the oil pump outlet tube. That's my theory anyway.

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Also made a dodgy TDC marker.

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This the outlet for the oil pressure gauge (without the line) and the oil filter,  my car didn't have a filter fitted, so the this line has been diverted to the sump inlet. Surely this is not correct, this would relieve the oil pressure in the main gallery?

 

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Maok...that large threaded hole is for the oil pressure relief spring & valve isn't it?.............the brass fitting with the 2 outlets and a metal line is the outlets for the gauge and filter?.............that red coloured fitting with line is what?..............the later engines have up to 4 ports available along the oil gallery tho' as yours is an early engine I hesitate to say...........andyd

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Hi Andy, yes, the large threaded hole is the oil pressure relief valve. The metal line coming out of the 2 outlet brass fitting goes to the other brass fitting that you see lower in the block, which is the sump inlet, ie the outlet of the oil filter would go here.. The metal line is one continuous line, its shaped to go around the starter motor.

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Maok.....your 2nd sentence does not make sense.............lol..............what other brass fitting?..............there is a red coloured fitting with a metal line which is what you refer to in the 3rd sentence..........but sentence #2 doesn't make sense..............lol................apologies if I am a little thick....lol.............andyd

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The 'red' coloured fitting is a brass fitting on the end of that ONE metal line Andy...lol

 

Sorry, I should have posted this pic.

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Edited by maok
grammar
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You just like to see me more confused than I normally am..........lol..........now I understand..........andyd

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That appears to be what I'd call an 'oil pressure bypass'. Assuming that the fitting on the right that goes into the block skirt is open to the sump?

I have to wonder if there was a bypass filter installed at one time and someone removed it, thinking that they needed to connect the inlet and outlet as a filter bypass, not fully understanding how a bypass filter works?

Edited by Merle Coggins
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6 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

That appears to be what I'd call an 'oil pressure bypass'. Assuming that the fitting on the right that goes into the block skirt is open to the sump?

I have to wonder if there was a bypass filter installed at one time and someone removed it, thinking that they needed to connect the inlet and outlet as a filter bypass, not fully understanding how a bypass filter works?

Yes, it does open to the sump.

 

I agree, most likely that is what has happen. I had never worried about it because the shape of that pipe look very factory correct and never crossed my mind.

 

4 hours ago, chrysler1941 said:

My 41 also has a double outlet from oil gallery. but the inner hole for gauge has a restriction, almost size of a needle. Has yours also this restriction?

 

 

 

I will have a closer look but I don't think mine has any restriction.

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Almost done now.

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There is always a hiccup but this one didn't test my character.

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  • 2 weeks later...

After a couple set backs, all my doing, its ready to go back in. 

 

The head gasket is yet to be torqued down, which I will do when its in the engine bay.

Now the big question, to spray or not to spray the head gasket?

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Pulled out the input shaft on the spare gearbox to align the clutch plate.

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And my dodgy generator capping. I may even turn the carby around to be able to install an air cleaner.

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Maok.........good to see you are progressing...........couple of things.........I assume re painting the head gasket you mean the exposed edges?.......I would n't bother painting the edges but thats me, I mean if I assembled the engine THEN painted it then its painted...........but as it appears that you painted engine parts before assembly then I'm not sure I'd bother unless you can be sure by painting the edges you can get ALL of the edges done otherwise to my way of thinking with some painted and some not it may look a little half baked.........lol.........the other thing I noticed was those "thumb" nuts or whatever they are called holding the valve sideplate covers on...........have they had one half of their "ears" broken off?.........they look odd...........they look like threaded studs screwed into the block with these "nuts" holding the covers tight, have you checked to see if thumb nuts with both ears are available? .............can these ones you have be properly tightened?........andyd.   

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Hey mate, oops, I should have said copper spraying the gasket....lol

 

Regarding the valve cover nuts, that is the way they are. They are a bit like Mark 'Chopper' Reid, one ear missing...lol

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A light spray of a copper gasket sealer should be a good idea......those one eared nuts are decidedly odd..........I suppose then its almost impossible to over tighten them with one ear..........lol............original or not they'd be in my garbage bin..........lol...........I used to happily sell the Chopper books in my bookshop but always thought he was a moron............lol..............andyd

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Not sure where you sourced your head gasket.  Maybe you mentioned on a prior page.  The gasket manufacturer should tell you whether or not you should apply a sealant/spray or not, and if so, what kind.  My gasket set came from Best Gaskets, and their website recommends use of copper spray, at least for the gaskets that have a copper sheet on both sides, like mine.

 

In general, though, I tend to think that a little copper spray is good for most head gaskets.

Edited by Matt Wilson
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