gramps1951 Posted June 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 I think my next project will be to make a fan shroud and see if that helps. also this weekend I will run it with no hood. I'll keep you guys posted thanks for the help so it sounds like no one here has vented a hood for cooling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted June 6, 2017 Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 7 minutes ago, gramps1951 said: I can see good flow in the rad. This is not a new problem it shows it's self in the summer down here in north carolina every year. Then once again I suggest you find and install a radiator with more cooling capacity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted June 6, 2017 Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 1 hour ago, gramps1951 said: I think my next project will be to make a fan shroud and see if that helps. also this weekend I will run it with no hood. I'll keep you guys posted thanks for the help so it sounds like no one here has vented a hood for cooling. Is running with no hood really an option for you, or at least a practical one? A shroud might help, but if you have good flow and a clean system, then your rad is obviously not big enough to cool the engine in that format. Might be time for a 4 core rad? Aluminum? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted June 6, 2017 Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 24 minutes ago, 4mula-dlx said: Is running with no hood really an option for you, or at least a practical one? A shroud might help, but if you have good flow and a clean system, then your rad is obviously not big enough to cool the engine in that format. Might be time for a 4 core rad? Aluminum? I think(hope) he was going to run hoodless as a test not a long term solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted June 6, 2017 Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 What type of fan do you use? Do you have a radiator fan shroud? Can make a big difference. Hold a piece of paper -say 8x10 up to the front of the radiator with engine running. Will it stay in place when let go? If so try a rag. It should also stay in place if the air flow through the radiator is enough at idle. Just some thoughts. DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted June 6, 2017 Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 Okay so engine, all water jackets clean and clear? T/stat verified, not that it will make it hotter necessarily, unless it's only opening a small amount. The rad, good flow, and in good condition, is it's capacity up to snuff for your locale? If not a bigger rad, might be the ticket. Does it need a shroud? Timing? too late will make heat. Driving habits, and rpm and load, higher loads, higher RPM =hotter engine temps. if the water jackets in the block are clear, and no exhaust gases leaking into a water jacket, I would bet on a rad problem..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted June 6, 2017 Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 (edited) On 2017-06-04 at 8:46 PM, gramps1951 said: the engine temp is between 200 and 210 in the summer other times of the year 195 Thanks Neil would be normal using a 195 t/stat, and this engine would be designed to run hotter than a flathead. I would like to see it running at 185-195 though.... what t/stat is in there 195? they sell 160 and 180 t/stats for tis engine too. Edited June 6, 2017 by 55 Fargo Spitfire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted June 6, 2017 Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 40 minutes ago, Young Ed said: I think(hope) he was going to run hoodless as a test not a long term solution. My point is you need to correct the problem in a normal running state, or your just confusing the problem. Sure it will run cooler without a hood, but it will also go faster if you removed all the fenders and doors and lightened it up...doesn't mean you can use it like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted June 6, 2017 Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 9 minutes ago, 4mula-dlx said: My point is you need to correct the problem in a normal running state, or your just confusing the problem. Sure it will run cooler without a hood, but it will also go faster if you removed all the fenders and doors and lightened it up...doesn't mean you can use it like that. Right but if the hood helps he could try and get more airflow with it installed. If the hood doesn't matter he's back to the radiator or something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted June 7, 2017 Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 It's such a dramatic change, how could you replicate that amount of heat release once the hoods back on? He needs to correct the lack of cooling, not the heat stuck under the hood once it's already gotten too hot. Fix the problem, not the aftermath Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maok Posted June 7, 2017 Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 I guarantee you that its either a coolant flow, or air flow, or ignition issue, or combination of the three ..... Have you tried taking the thermostat out to eliminate it not opening fully? My guess is that its coolant flow issue, either in the block or radiator. If your engine is modified and producing extra power then a larger radiator maybe on the cards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted June 7, 2017 Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 Removing the hood is a zero cost step in the diagnosis of a truck that has an engine and a radiator installed that was not originally designed for the engine compartment. Another step is to put the hood back on and remove the side access panels to monitor heat being removed from the system, another zero cost diagnostic step. If there is no change in the heat being released by the cooling system, then the air flow through the radiator is not the problem, so any modifications made to sheet metal (adding louvers) will have no effect. So the diagnostic procedure shifts back to the cooling system's ability to remove heat from the engine. As there has been coolant flowing observed with the engine running, then the water pump is working, but maybe not effectively...removing the thermostat has been observed as having no effect, another zero cost diagnostic step...next is to change rad.caps to lower pressure ratings, preferably what that system was originally designed for...possibly might need an infrared thermometer to see if any hotspots in the system...if still no change but high heat in the system, engine may be running too lean...so the diagnosis now focuses away from the cooling system and towards the heat generation... but bottom line, starting with no cost system modifications is an economical approach to high heat diagnosis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted June 7, 2017 Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 (edited) Lets remember this is a modern engine designed to run at a much higher temp than a flathead 6. If he is running a 195 t/stat, what temp do yall think he will run at in hot weather, easily over 200f, now with 50-50 coolant, and a 14-16 lb rad cap, and no puking boiling or heat related issues with the fuel and/or engine detonation , what exactly is the problem here? Edited June 7, 2017 by 55 Fargo Spitfire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavisco1 Posted June 7, 2017 Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 A question for Gramps 1951. How are you measuring the temperature? Did you adapt the original factory gauge or is this an aftermarket gauge? Gauges can be off. One of those handheld infrared thermometers may give you a good baseline of the temperature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gramps1951 Posted June 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2017 I am running a stewart warner guage. While I was running thru a parts box I came across a rear heater core for chevy handy cap van I got the strange idear of mounting it under the bed of the truck for exta cooling ok ok I am just jokeing but I bet it would drop the temp a few degrees. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted June 9, 2017 Report Share Posted June 9, 2017 2 minutes ago, gramps1951 said: I am running a stewart warner guage. While I was running thru a parts box I came across a rear heater core for chevy handy cap van I got the strange idear of mounting it under the bed of the truck for exta cooling ok ok I am just jokeing but I bet it would drop the temp a few degrees. Neil I am sure it would help. But really is this engine overheating or running more like a modern engine that it is? Did you pull the t/stat, is it what I suspect a 195, which when fully open should be in the 200-210 range. Is this engine puking, boiling over or what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gramps1951 Posted June 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2017 (edited) 12 minutes ago, 55 Fargo Spitfire said: I am sure it would help. But really is this engine overheating or running more like a modern engine that it is? Did you pull the t/stat, is it what I suspect a 195, which when fully open should be in the 200-210 range. Is this engine puking, boiling over or what? she is not boiling over with the 18 pound cap I was looking for some tricks to have it drop a few degrees thats all don't really want to spend the money for a new radiator right now I just came in from driveing it for about an hour I got out opened the hood and she was silent no bubbling sounds. the gauge was saying about 215 degrees. but today is not as hot as it can get down here Edited June 9, 2017 by gramps1951 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted June 9, 2017 Report Share Posted June 9, 2017 5 minutes ago, gramps1951 said: she is not boiling over with the 18 pound cap I was looking for some tricks to have it drop a few degrees thats all don't really want to spend the money for a new radiator right now I just came in from driveing it for about an hour I got out opened the hood and she was silent no bubbling sounds. the gauge was saying about 215 degrees. but today is not as hot as it can get down here Okay great, did you pull the t/stat and verify if she is a 195 or something else? a 195 will run in the 200-220 range when fully open and hot. Now if you put a 180 in there, possibly it may run a bit cooler. With 50/50 coolant and a 15 or 16 lb rad cap, your boiling point would be well below 210, so toss the 18 lb cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gramps1951 Posted June 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 update on my progress now remember I have an amc258 in my b3b . I took an old fan shroud out of a amc eagle and worked on it to fit my radiator took it out on the road with no noticable change but looks kind of cool. than just now I got a new fan clutch I just cranked her up the sound of air rushing thru the radiator took me by surprise the air I felt getting pulled thru the grill is way stronger now it is storming where I live so I will have to wait for the weather to clear for my next test run but I can't see how it can't have been improved. That 1974 clutch fan I think has been the problem all along. It will feel great to fix a problem I have had for a while but like I said earlyer it only showed this problem in the summer. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavisco1 Posted June 28, 2017 Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 Good to know it was something simple. The shroud should help as well. Scott. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted June 28, 2017 Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 An additive like water wetter can be helpful as long as the system is clean and functional. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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