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Time for an overhaul...


thebeebe5

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Today's efforts....    Radiator boxed up To send in to Brassworks.  They "foamed up" a '37 they had at the shop and sent me the empty, fitted box.  Definitely worth the cost IMO.  

Got a second transmission from a forum member here.  It's disassembled and looks like it has a good, useable main shaft.  My original was better overall, but there is some scoring at the forward bearing surface that fits into the input shaft.  Better to use this second shaft I'm thinking....   My trans case is all cleaned and ready to begin assembly. image.jpeg.f820ee785c06b5924ec15bd5c825000a.jpeg

Distributor shaft needed a little attention, so when Pat wasn't looking I chucked it up in the lathe and polished it with the crankshaft polisher.   And there was a burr or something inside the upermost part that slides onto the top of the shaft and completes the weight assembly.  Ran a valve guide hone throuhh it real quickly and it spins freely now.  Ready for reassembly in the painted body. 

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I bead blasted the head and checked it for straightness.   It's all good and we'll just do a clean up cut on it prior to install.

Before:

 

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Edited by thebeebe5
Grammar
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Also cc'd the head and found the chamber size to be 82.2cc.  There was a recent thread pertaining to chamber size.  I'll try to find it and add the information there as well. 

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Edited by thebeebe5
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Distributor is all cleaned up inside and out and the body is repainted.   I'll let it dry for the week and reassemble next weekend.  

 

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@Don Coatney is correct.  We blast cast iron heads with whatever wore out media is in the cabinet at the time.  When the gunk is gone we swap out for a fresh  load of #8 glass beads and give the heads a once-over, and they almost come out looking polished. 

Edited by thebeebe5
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14 hours ago, thebeebe5 said:

Distributor is all cleaned up inside and out and the body is repainted.   I'll let it dry for the week and reassemble next weekend.  

 

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If you hunt around there is a guy overseas I think Poland that reproduces a lot of these small tags. Dist gen starter Etc. Such nice work should be capped off with a nice red tag

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1 hour ago, Young Ed said:

If you hunt around there is a guy overseas I think Poland that reproduces a lot of these small tags. Dist gen starter Etc. Such nice work should be capped off with a nice red tag

I don't know what a red tag is, Young Ed...

Young Ed-ucate me, please....

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15 minutes ago, thebeebe5 said:

I don't know what a red tag is, Young Ed...

Young Ed-ucate me, please....

what Tim said. That aluminum tag on your dist was originally red with a logo on it. 

9 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

red indicates 6 volt electrical components....green label will indicate 12 volt.......the data tags on the distributor, generator and starter will be either red or green depending on your year/application

 

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1 hour ago, Young Ed said:

what Tim said. That aluminum tag on your dist was originally red with a logo on it. 

 

Okay.   Anyone have a photo?  And can anyone tell by the number plate on mine if it is correct for a '37?  The numbers mean nothing to me....

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Yours looks a little different based on the stampings but this is one I had from? I took this apart and combined it with a /6 for my project

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1 hour ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

you would need to post the IGS-xxxxxx number for anyone to tell you more.....(appears to be an IGS cannot make it out at that angle)

This may help, but it doesn't look like Young Ed's tag IMO.  Who knows where it came from...

 

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per my 1937 Plymouth repair manual, your distributor is spot on for factory....time at 4* ATDC,

(EDIT FOR WRONG TIMING) 

 .020 breaker gap, if setting by dwell will be 38* mechanical advance limits are;17-20 ounce breaker spring tension, .008 allowable wear in bushing for run out., condenser is .25 to .28mfd.   mechanical advance limits are; 0 advance at 350 rpm,   3* advance at 400rpm, 6* advance at 950 rpm, 11* advance at 1850   vacuum advance starts in at 2* at 6.5 inch of vacuum, 11* at 14 inches of vacuum.  14mm spark plug thread with .025 spark gap.  Now get out there, tune it and lay some rubber down the driveway

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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19 minutes ago, thebeebe5 said:

This may help, but it doesn't look like Young Ed's tag IMO.  Who knows where it came from...

 

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My Auto-Lite book doesn't go back to 1937 but here is the info for 1938 ;    Distributor IGS - 4003 B-1 is for 1938 Plymouth P5 or P6 or PT 57 .  Individual Auto-Lite part numbers  are :  cap IGC - 1107S  ,  rotor IGS - 1016B ,  contact set IGP - 3028A ,  condenser  IG - 3927G , breaker plate assy  IGS - 2004 . 

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12 minutes ago, Jerry Roberts said:

My Auto-Lite book doesn't go back to 1937 but here is the info for 1938 ;    Distributor IGS - 4003 B-1 is for 1938 Plymouth P5 or P6 or PT 57 .  Individual Auto-Lite part numbers  are :  cap IGC - 1107S  ,  rotor IGS - 1016B ,  contact set IGP - 3028A ,  condenser  IG - 3927G , breaker plate assy  IGS - 2004 . 

Ok, so this is a '38 unit?  

Also, can anyone tell me about this access?  Mine was packed with grease when I disassembled, so I assumed it was for that purpose. Question is, do you just gob grease into it and hope it gets to the shaft?  No real way to advance it into the center unless you just push it in with a finger....  Seems an odd attachement to me.  Also, is there a source for a seal? This one's gone.  I could find a neoprene o-ring with a little effort.  Didn't see a solution when I shopped at Bernbaum this am....

 

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15 minutes ago, thebeebe5 said:

Ok, so this is a '38 unit?  

Also, can anyone tell me about this access?  Mine was packed with grease when I disassembled, so I assumed it was for that purpose. Question is, do you just gob grease into it and hope it gets to the shaft?  No real way to advance it into the center unless you just push it in with a finger....  Seems an odd attachement to me.  Also, is there a source for a seal? This one's gone.  I could find a neoprene o-ring with a little effort.  Didn't see a solution when I shopped at Bernbaum this am....

 

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Please read my post above again......!      it is correct also for the 1937 PER MY PLYMOUTH REPAIR MANUAL...Jerry stated only that his BOOK did not go back that far....mine did, no second guessing

 

 

 

 

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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52 minutes ago, thebeebe5 said:

Ok, so this is a '38 unit?  

Also, can anyone tell me about this access?  Mine was packed with grease when I disassembled, so I assumed it was for that purpose. Question is, do you just gob grease into it and hope it gets to the shaft?  No real way to advance it into the center unless you just push it in with a finger....  Seems an odd attachement to me.  Also, is there a source for a seal? This one's gone.  I could find a neoprene o-ring with a little effort.  Didn't see a solution when I shopped at Bernbaum this am....

 

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Looks like you need a cap for your grease cup.

Here is what some joker did to his Model T grease cup.

Model T Grease Cup Modified w_ Zirk.jpg

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2 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

per my 1937 Plymouth repair manual, your distributor is spot on for factory....time at 4* BTDC, .020 breaker gap, if setting by dwell will be 38* mechanical advance limits are;17-20 ounce breaker spring tension, .008 allowable wear in bushing for run out., condenser is .25 to .28mfd.   mechanical advance limits are; 0 advance at 350 rpm,   3* advance at 400rpm, 6* advance at 950 rpm, 11* advance at 1850   vacuum advance starts in at 2* at 6.5 inch of vacuum, 11* at 14 inches of vacuum.  14mm spark plug thread with .025 spark gap.  Now get out there, tune it and lay some rubber down the driveway

Looking at my 1937 Plymouth repair manual, the spec is - points open 4 degrees ATDC, maybe a printing error?....I checked my Motor's auto repair manual and it also says - location of timing marks, vibration damper - spark timing 4th line ATDC

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