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thebeebe5

Time for an overhaul...

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17 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

if you did not order it by specs and got it off the shelf from the distributor/retailer, how can it be a custom size....?

That's what the fellow said.  That compressor side was on the shelf along with about 40 others back in the warehouse. When I balked at the size he said "we do this one as a custom.  It's same spec as the larger unit and produces the same power.  It's an extra $100 because it's not generally available unless someone orders one".   I have no idea why he had that one available.  He just started picking up other components for the guts and then asked what hot side we wanted. Then we picked a wastegate and paid up. I did get a "jobber" discount because my buddy's shop buys all their turbos there.   Was a $975 bill though.  I'd hoped not to spend that much, but didn't want to risk a cheap chinese knock off from ebay at $200-$300.  

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55 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

thanks for the explanation...never have ever bought nor replaced a turbo though I have owned turbo cars...

Same.   It's all new to me. 

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Yesterday and today:

 

Finished the carb. Just needed to pick the rest of a broken brass valve screw out of the choke shaft and run a #3-48 tap through it, then replace the screws with new ones. A little locktite after install and it's ready.   Also fixed the choke spring up onto a jig and bead blasted it, then hit it with some gloss black. 

 

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Bead blasted the bellhousing. It's not quite finished here, but I ran it through again and gave it a clear lacquer coat and removed a broken motor mount bolt.  Chased all the threads prior to final blast and paint. 

 

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Today got the manifolds hung with a couple of nuts just to locate turbo oil return, had Brian weld the return bung in and after a thorough cleaning installed the pan after checking oil pickup clearance (which was right at 1/2").

 

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Partially masked the block for paint, and there it sits.  Paint will have to wait.  I'm done in....

 

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Edited by thebeebe5

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6 hours ago, Cpt.Fred said:

i'm jealous of you blasting cabinet :)

 

nice work on the oil return and carb!

I'm jealous of that cabinet too,  @Cpt.Fred.  Brian says that's the best purchase he made for the shop all those years ago.  LOVE the flip top lid, and the capacity is enormous.  I regularly soda blast vintage V12 heads in there and there's more than enough room.   Routinely stand big V8 heads on end, too. 

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Last weekend and this weekend my time was spent painting the trans and installing the brake, and painting, repainting and RE-repainting the motor.  First try was Duplicolor gloss black.  It went on like oatmeal.....  sanded it down the next day and tried a different batch of Duplicolor and got more oatmeal.   Dammit.  Sanded it again yesterday and used a different paint; the Seymour Hi Tech paint the shop uses for just about everything.   What a difference!   It actually shines, and went on wet and leveled fairly well for a rattle can.  Could have been better with a proper spray gun and some good automotive paint, but I didn’t go that route.   Maybe my next engine...  This one is now waiting in the back row of the engine room to get back into its car.  

Also, still stripping and painting various small parts in preparation for reinstallation.  Also got the original air cleaner stripped.  It will be gloss black again.  

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Edited by thebeebe5

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Very close to wrapping this project up, or so I tell myself....  i know I have a long way to go. 

 

Last weekend got the motor painted to my satisfaction.   Finally.  Three tries to get a fairly smooth coat of paint.   It’s not perfect, but it will do. 

 

Today got the oil lines fitted for the full flow oil filter.  Recall I’d started out with AN-6 fittings in mind.  Ended up going with a -8 fitting that matched the ID of the pressure side oil galley so as not to restrict oil flow.   But the larger fittings would have interfered with each other unless I went with a different style fitting, such as a 45° angled nipple to keep the two fittings more separated.  As it turned out there was a lot of meat on the nut side that screwed the 3/8” NPT threads into the block and I simply chucked each up in the lathe and turned opposite ends to make room.  Now they’ll fit right in there without issue. Got the water pump mated up.  Fuel pump on. Need to get some 1” heater hose for the bypass so I can permanantly install the water neck.  It’s just perched up there after last weekend’s paint. 

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Edited by thebeebe5

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Finally got the car to the shop today.  Spend the day getting the clutch linkage fixed up.  Cleaned it and found the holes all wallowed out, so Brian welded them up for me.  I got them ground flat today and will redrill the holes next weekend to tighten up the linkage. 

 

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Also, since I’d found an extra oil galley plug and I wasn’t sure if there was a hidden one I’d forgotten (besides the one on either end of the main galley) we made a tool to run the pump with a drill.   Pulled the pump back out and took the gear off, and with the drill cranking some old stock 20/50 Brian said he’d probably never use we found a cold oil pressure of 58psi.  With a lighter 30wt and at temp I’m guessing it will settle in around 40-45psi.  I’ll need to make (or buy) another pump to block gasket and reinstall permanently next week.  

 

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Getting the engine in is a kind of a dance with this motor.....  The rear mounts are attached to the trans bell housing, so I settled the motor in place and started the front mount bracket bolts but left the rear a bit low and supported it with a 2” ratchet strap.  Then I cranked up the rear to a height that would allow the bell housing to be worked up behind the motor and only just started it in place.   Then the flywheel has to go in because there’s not enough room rearward if the bell is tightened prior to flywheel install.   Once the flywheel is started the bell housing can be tightened followed by the flywheel final torquing.  Got the clutch installed too.  That’s as far as I made it today, but it’s a huge step to finally running the motor and getting the old girl back on the road. Had I more time today (or had I been more efficient with my efforts) I could have gotten the trans bolted in and made measurements for a new drive shaft to be made which will utilize modern u-joints rather than the old ball and trunnion setup of yesteryear.  Reading the forum it seems unanimous that modern u-joints are quieter and smoother, and it just makes sense. Rebuilding the old one would cost at least $250, so I figure I’d rather spend that coin on an unseen upgrade. 

 

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Edited by thebeebe5

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Stopped by Unique Upholstery now located in Gilbert, AZ (formerly Scottsdale) and picked up my newly remade shift fork boot. My pal Scott (the owner) hooked me up!!!  This was worth the Cuban cigars I swapped for sure!!  

 

Tomorrow it’ll get installed.  

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3 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Nice clutch fork bootie job!

 

They do great work.   Felt silly asking him for such a small favor, but he was happy to oblige. 

 

http://www.uniqueaz.com/

Edited by thebeebe5

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Got these great speedometer gear seals from DCM in Michigan, but they require some machining to fit.  So, got out the 4 jaw chuck (which I hate by the way) this morning and got to work.  Opened the hole for a slight interference fit and made it 0.030” deeper too.  Fits just right now.  

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Throw out bearing and spring installed.  Now I’ll need to get the shifter assembly back together so that when the trans is in I can keep it covered. Might as well cover it with factory parts..... 

 

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On 6/9/2018 at 2:07 PM, P15-D24 said:

Their is a pattern in the Downloads section. 

 

I’ve looked for the download section a Few times.  Found some items there, but not the boot pattern.    Was there a boot on the shifter to shifter base from the factory as well.?  Would like to cover that up a bit.  It’s always been exposed on my car (since I’ve had it...).  

 

Also, I wonder about the front of the inspection plate....  there’s a row of rivets that make me think there ought to be something installed there to help keep road dirt out from the flywheel/clutch area....

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Progress was slow today, but I did get the trans installed.   The throwout bearing and carrier  was a challenge, but it all finally went together.  Of course I had some shop tasks to attend and couldnt devote my whole day to gettting more done, but I’ll take the progress I managed and build on it next weekend. 

 

Here’s a before and after.   Loads better IMO.

 

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Took the positive battery lead out and put some heat shrink on it after bead blasting the end connectors to clean them up as well. Everything was so cruddy....   nice to be reinstalling cleaned parts.  

 

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Reinstalled the oil pump this evening too.  After, I tried to install the distributor, but the darned thing wouldn’t seat propperly.  Looking at the shaft tip it was apparent there were two wear patterns and it appeared the  blade wasn’t sitting deeply enough.  Head scratcher for a while....    I don't recall any trouble removing it, but it sure wouldn’t go all the way in the hole this evening....   Ultimately ended up painting the shaft and tapping the top of the (old) rotor to try to drive it home, then pulled it out to find interference contact points.  Seems the slot in the pump was too tight on the distributor shaft blade, so I hit it lightly with an angle grinder and thinned it a touch.  Goes in nicely now.   

 

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I’ll take the drive shaft in this week and have a new one made up with modern u-joints. 

Edited by thebeebe5

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29 minutes ago, thebeebe5 said:

 

I’ve looked for the download section a Few times.  Found some items there, but not the boot pattern.    Was there a boot on the shifter to shifter base from the factory as well.?  Would like to cover that up a bit.  It’s always been exposed on my car (since I’ve had it...).  

 

Also, I wonder about the front of the inspection plate....  there’s a row of rivets that make me think there ought to be something installed there to help keep road dirt out from the flywheel/clutch area....

 

And 

 

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🤔

Edited by thebeebe5

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On 6/16/2018 at 11:10 PM, thebeebe5 said:

 

I’ve looked for the download section a Few times.  Found some items there, but not the boot pattern.    Was there a boot on the shifter to shifter base from the factory as well.?  Would like to cover that up a bit.  It’s always been exposed on my car (since I’ve had it...).  

 

Also, I wonder about the front of the inspection plate....  there’s a row of rivets that make me think there ought to be something installed there to help keep road dirt out from the flywheel/clutch area....

My trucks use a 2 piece plate with the vertical piece having a piece of felt like stuff riveted on for a seal. I remade mine with carpet jute scraps. Does it look similar to this?

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Edited by Young Ed
added picture

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2 hours ago, Young Ed said:

My trucks use a 2 piece plate with the vertical piece having a piece of felt like stuff riveted on for a seal. I remade mine with carpet jute scraps. Does it look similar to this?

DSC00335.jpg

Well, all that’s left of mine is bare rivets.  😂

I can certainly do the same as this though.

 

 Assume the same kind of material was used for floor panel joints?   I just had my floor panels dipped clean of paint and rust and was wondering about those too.  Of course, a layer of Dynamat on each would likely suffice for a joint seal and that’s likely all I’ll do for the floors. 

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