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Time for an overhaul...


thebeebe5

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3 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

maybe an oil pressure regulator piston.....too many admit of late this gets easily over looked before baby's first bath.

Got that already PA....  It's safely out of the block.  I can see some leftovers of the water tube.   Trying to pick them out now....

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Got it.   Used 1/4" tooling stock with a hook fashioned at one end and a 1/2" 20 thread nut of slide hammer use. Picked a lot out with a magnet as well.  I'll weld it up for re-use.  

:P

 

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7 minutes ago, thebeebe5 said:

Got it.   Used 1/4" tooling stock with a hook fashioned at one end and a 1/2" 20 thread nut of slide hammer use. Picked a lot out with a magnet as well.  I'll weld it up for re-use.  

:P

 

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Please tell me what brand name rods you use, I would like to buy some stock in that company before you start welding..

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Crank's a bit out of speck.   

Of course it's out of round and tapered too... :blink:

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Checked valve installed height to be 1.635". That puts the existing springs at 45lb seat pressure and about 97lbs open at a 0.321" lift as measured on the cam lobe (Exhaust and Intake have the same measured lift). Doesn't seem like much, but  there's less than 10% variance in measuring every spring.  I'll poke around a bit and see if that's good enough for a stock rebuilt 201.  

 

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Edited by thebeebe5
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Pistons off and rods bead blasted.   I'll check the wrist pin bushings for size before leaving the shop today.  'Bout time for a cold beer...

 

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Block and various parts are back from vatting.  There's still a good bit of sediment packed in the lower portion of the water jacket, especially at the rear of the motor.  I'll have some work to do chipping that out tomorrow, and then will decide if it needs a chemical dip to dissolve some heavy rust  deposits or additional leftover crud hiding in the interior nooks and crannies....

 

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Still looks to need a hot caustic hot tank for at  least 24 hrs.

I had mine dipped overnight in a hot "soapy" non caustic solution, but "environmentally safe"  and it did very little to all the rust accumulation inside by the lower part of the cylinder walls to block sides! Wonder if that is what you had?. Sometimes the block needs to be put in the caustic tank upside down to get the lower inside areas.

DJ

 

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22 hours ago, DJ194950 said:

Still looks to need a hot caustic hot tank for at  least 24 hrs.

I had mine dipped overnight in a hot "soapy" non caustic solution, but "environmentally safe"  and it did very little to all the rust accumulation inside by the lower part of the cylinder walls to block sides! Wonder if that is what you had?. Sometimes the block needs to be put in the caustic tank upside down to get the lower inside areas.

DJ

 

It had an overnight dip in a caustic hot tank, but the back half of the block is packed solid with soft sediment.   Almost like a modeling clay....  Dug out what I could and will take it to a place that does a more aggressive dip.  Got to get this goop out.  

 

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1 hour ago, keithb7 said:

Yikes. Thats is a lot of crap that came out of your block. 

There's a lot more where that came from....!  LOL

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  • 2 weeks later...

So, progress report.  Last week not much done.  Other things to do at the shop, and the block hasn't come back from the second dip yet.  

This week, resurfaced the valve adjusters.  Some were dished as much as 0.050" where the valve stem made contact.   Should help with valve adjustments...  

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Also, tried to disassemble the drive shaft, but cannot get the trunnion cross pins pressed out of the joints even with the shop's 10 ton Sunnen press, so....   Not sure what next.  Could try heat...?  

And knocked down the distributor. It had obviously gotten a Krylon rebuild at some point in the past.  Blasted the black paint off and as it peeled away a rust layer appeared....  Not a bit surprised, but it's squeakey clean now.  Internals look pretty good.   Everyhing is nice and tight. I'll paint, lube and reassemble. 

By the way....  What color should the distributor body be from the factory...?  

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Looking good. Thanks for sharing your progress and pics. 

I'm here to humbly learn from others. I can't comment on your inquiries. 

Edited by keithb7
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13 minutes ago, Niel Hoback said:

Black

Thanks Niel.  Gloss?  Satin?  

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Finally got the block back yesterday.  Had it recleaned and de-rusted at Xpress Metal Cleaning in Phoenix (they did not do the first cleaning).  This time its perfect.  Water jacked is devoid of sediment and ALL the heavy rust scale in/on the block and is gone. Definitely a better place to start.  Need to order bearings now so we can get the mains right. Parts are starting to roll in.   ;)

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16 hours ago, Frank Elder said:

Would a 230 crank n rods fit in a 201 for a little more pep ?

 

It might, but as I have neither 230 crank or rods it'll go back in as original.  It'll be fine compared to how bad it was initially.  

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Do yourself a favor and put the distributor on a distributor testing machine. A truly rebuilt distributor with new springs, freed up advance weights, and new bushings with a perfectly straight quill will do wonders for the rebuilt motor.

 

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