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Dual master installation simplified without buying a bracket from a company...


Mikefaster

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This is what I have on my 54 suburban.  I borrowed this idea from the truck side. I have this setup on my B3B. 

 

 

 

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Edited by pflaming
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That works... I was thinking about a plastic Reservoir but I'm just afraid something will go wrong...

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I seriously thought of a remote tank, but the lid for the Jeep MC has baffles in it, so it stays original. Every thing is factory original, I've just gutted the OE MC and extended the rod. 

Edited by pflaming
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Pflaming,

   That looks like a very clean arrangement (much like the shifter—very clean arrangement), but a few questions for you: “gutting the master cylinder” I understand, but what did you do on the other end of it? Just drill a hole in it? Is the hole over-sized, or sized for the pushrod? And, what did you use for the pushrod from the pedal to the new master cylinder. Lastly, what’s the master cylinder in the photo from? It looks like a GM, but I’m not sure just what specifically it’s for. Thx.

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1. The original master cylinder has a plug in the end, remove it. 2. I welded an extension to the push rod, 3 . 98 Cherokee cylinder and proportioning valve.   The down side on this is that the 2nd cylinder is above the floor, so a guard is required. 

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The down side of this master cylinder, it is above the floor so it will require a shield.  The last picture is the current status of the interior.

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Edited by pflaming
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15 minutes ago, pflaming said:
16 minutes ago, pflaming said:

The down side of this master cylinder, it is above the floor so it will require a shield.  The last picture is the current status of the interior.

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That's why I used the Corvette style master cylinder... It's just slightly over the floor. I'm sure if I changed the body mounts, it would be flush...

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Mike, that is nicer. I had the Cherokee so gotta use what you have, if you know what I mean. Will certainly research this for my 39 Chrysler. Since mine is near the seat, directly behind my right foot about 18"' it will do just fine for me. I love this hobby! TKS for the tip! 

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4 hours ago, pflaming said:

Mike, that is nicer. I had the Cherokee so gotta use what you have, if you know what I mean. Will certainly research this for my 39 Chrysler. Since mine is near the seat, directly behind my right foot about 18"' it will do just fine for me. I love this hobby! TKS for the tip! 

Thanks, I hear ya... I'll one day use mine for movie sets so I want to make sure all my brake components are new because I simply cannot get stuck. I'm also replacing all the lines with the easy to bend, never rust, alloy type...

Being that it is totally cast iron, I'm honestly contemplating drilling 2 holes in the master, pipe thread tapping it, screwing in brass barbed fittings and extend 2 clear hoses to some kind of reservoir under the hood...

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Cast iron? None of that in my arrangement. All lines to and from the Cherokee master cylinder are same as from the factory. I do not reengineer.  All of my brake lines are new as well. 

 

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Edited by pflaming
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17 minutes ago, pflaming said:

Cast iron? None of that in my arrangement. All lines to and from the Cherokee master cylinder are same as from the factory. I do not reengineer.  All of my brake lines are new as well. 

 

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My master is cast; I don't get exactly what you meant... I pretty much only install the new style brake lines on every car I work on because it's so easy to work with. I'm also not taking off the body to accomplish this. It's not reengineering to put different lines in there. The replacement master cylinder is definitely reengineering, but to a lesser degree...

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That's a little bit expensive, but definitely pretty cool...

 

This is more down my alley

 

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/191631884986

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 5/25/2017 at 6:00 PM, Mikefaster said:

The tires are like brand new but they're probably 30 years old because they're made by Sears. I don't know the last time that Sears made wide white wall tires,

Those are the tires that I have on my car. The ride is fine, but they don't grip the road worth a durn -- squeals going around a corner at 10 MPH.  

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Well one problem is that they're probably 20 or 30 years old, LOL... Like I said I don't know when's the last time that Sears made those tires... I haven't heard of Sears making bias-ply tires but just the fact that they're bias-ply are probably not great for the roads now a days...

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7 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

bias ply are excellent for the geometry of the older car....if you go to radials, the wise transformer will address the caster to be into the positive range.

I am not doubting your statement,but would like to know the reasons why a positive caster would be necessary and how much so I can explain it to the alignment guy.

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it has to do with tire profile and "thinking cartoon cars" is best example in manner the bias distorts and the radials do not....thus the needed caster on radial and not so on bias ply

read this article.......will help you get your head around it    http://www.valleyofhastings.com/WheelAlignment2.pdf

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I don't doubt anybody's theories, but I DO doubt the quality in which roads are made out of nowadays... Or it's affects on tires in general...

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added explanation to the term distort....when I spoke of the cartoon tires...in the comics you see the speeding car with the mass of the tire sticking out at the rear, while exaggerated, this is true of the bias and not true of the radial.  the contract patch on the bias is moved rearward granting the effect of positive caster.  The radial does not have this characteristic and thus the contact path stays in the same place beneath the kingpin...with no caster, the car will be subject to wander and wave about the highway willy nilly...granted the steering will feel light but handling at speed goes out the door

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4 minutes ago, Mikefaster said:

I don't doubt anybody's theories, but I DO doubt the quality in which roads are made out of nowadays... Or it's affects on tires in general...

roads are built with just the slight high center crown to allow for rain to run off and lessen the effect of hydroplaning.  some companies are good at this crown and other suck the big one...I could name a major company in the south that personally I would not let snap together a slot car track let alone work with asphalt.  Also keep in mind that if a tire would last forever the companies building them would likely go out of business or you would get the second lien on your car just to buy replacements

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1 hour ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

it has to do with tire profile and "thinking cartoon cars" is best example in manner the bias distorts and the radials do not....thus the needed caster on radial and not so on bias ply

read this article.......will help you get your head around it    http://www.valleyofhastings.com/WheelAlignment2.pdf

Thanks,saved that to my hard drive.

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The Corvette style master cylinder is pretty much around 1974-1979... It has become the standard for brake kits because if the even sized reservoirs and versatility. The aftermarket ones on eBay come with ports on both sides and come with a 1 inch bore or 1 1/8 inch bore...

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