Update and brake question

[48Windsor]

Its been a while since I've posted anything even though I read the forum daily with my morning coffee.

Just after I posted my brake question, I found what looks like my answer in a topic a couple posts down. Guess I should have read the new posts before posting. 

I got the intake/exhaust manifold replaced finally. I got rid of the heat riser rather than rebuild it. Be it right or wrong, I cut a slot  in the plate I installed between the manifolds. Figured  since the heat riser always allowed some heat to the bottom of the intake, I would do the same. Re-tightened the nuts down after running it a while. I was surprised at how lose they were. Rebuilt the carb and used a vacuum gauge to adjust it. It runs much better than before. The only complaint is the new accelerator pump plunger seemed very lose in the chamber. I still have a little hesitation at times.

Anyway, I've got a spongy brake pedal.  Today I bled the brakes hoping to get a firmer pedal. When I went to bleed both lower cylinders on the front drums, neither one would run any brake fluid out the bleed port when the brake pedal was depressed.The top worked as it should but not the bottom. Since I've never been into the brakes on an old Mopar I wasn't sure how the bottom cylinder is fed. According to the manual  the bottom cylinder should be bled first then the top. Can anyone offer a reason whats up?? I still have a spongy pedal. 

Thanks for any help. Always enjoy reading about everyone's projects.

Tom B

Edited May 24, 2017 by 48Windsor

[plymouthcranbrook]

I had a tough time doing mine on my 52 Plymouth. I tried vacuum bleeding with a pump and had read some here have made pressure Bleeders. Make sure the connection line from top to bottom is not plugged.  My Neighbor and I just kept going until it finally began to flow. Make sure there is not any other air anywhere else in the lines for the rear as well. Make sure there isn't any air in the Master Cylinder as well as this will also cause a soft pedal.

[48Windsor]

Thanks plymouthcranbrook.  Guess I'm gonna have to pull the drums off and see whats up. I've never bled a master cylinder. Is there a bleed port on is also???

[Niel Hoback]

The master cylinder does not need bleeding. When you fill the reservoir, the fluid covers the outlet port and immediately forces the air out ahead of the fluid.

[48Windsor]

Thanks all.

[P15-D24]

Pressure bleeding is the only way to go. Start with the longest line first (right rear). It your brake system is sound you should complete the job in 2 passes, 3 at the most. If that doesn't work start looking for a problem, like a leaking wheel cylinder, or cracked  brake line.    

Soft pedal means air is getting in somewhere and until you find the source you just wasting brake fluid trying to bleed the system.

I strongly recommend anyone getting a new car to do a full brake overhaul, including wheel cylinders, lines, shoes, master and turning the drums. If you don't drive the car a lot switch to Dot 5 fluid. Do that at the start you will have years of trouble free and safe brake operation.  

[Niel Hoback]

Thank you,     from the guy in front of you at the stop light.