51Meadowbrook

1951 230 Flathead 6 rebuild

59 posts in this topic

Yep.....that's the infamous Water Distribution Tube..............many of us have discussed its parentage and the various positions it may frequent in getting it removed...............lol............is best to remove it as if the engine is being hot tanked it being there still may restrict how much crud can be removed............some have found that it falls out, others have had to use all manner of removal tools & ideas .............see how yours is to start with or at the very least do a search on this forum as there are quite a few threads about these things...........andyd  

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 Be a real pain to get out! I have one in my 251 that is being really difficult. I've been using a slide hammer, and driving a thin piece of steel along side it as far as I can get it, then pulling it out. I have a friend that owns an automotive machine shop, and he's done lots of them. he told me he's had them bad enough he had to drill a hole in the back of the block so he could drive it out, then tap the hole for a pipe plug!  It definitely needs to come out, because it needs to be working properly to evenly distribute water to the cylinders for proper cooling. if it isn't working properly the rear cylinders will get too hot, causing premature failures.

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On 5/14/2017 at 6:08 PM, DLD said:

 Be a real pain to get out! I have one in my 251 that is being really difficult. I've been using a slide hammer, and driving a thin piece of steel along side it as far as I can get it, then pulling it out. I have a friend that owns an automotive machine shop, and he's done lots of them. he told me he's had them bad enough he had to drill a hole in the back of the block so he could drive it out, then tap the hole for a pipe plug!  It definitely needs to come out, because it needs to be working properly to evenly distribute water to the cylinders for proper cooling. if it isn't working properly the rear cylinders will get too hot, causing premature failures.

Fortunately the one in my engine came right out.  I was in the builder's shop the next day after he pulled it out.  He showed it to me and explained what it was  It was dirty but it good shape with no rot or holes, surprisingly.  He cleaned it up and put it back in much to my relief.  Hope you can get yours out eventually :)

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Glad to hear you got it out.  I used this setup, and mine came right out.  I don't have a slide hammer, so I improvised.

ij89_Zo0D0Jx0A9QKGabuPKhjC4LQX8je07co0ekEwvy4pZYQDkPanTY_0Wp255WIO8Xtau65rITnCP3c7j2V8B6QCzghabVKGKvmAFFAg54JjoFnR9jP4NWShDHnKHkFnDV_yeFhUk39zZGG4_yplDwsYkYv6lV8ZHstzYOZIbUfcvfRMVrEUHoJVnJQw_dO15NITacYJz9Cljf-KK_KMYTxuzI4zuHRRDa1zg0YD8QFvATNnkbG1Otc9Hqy4lxOiJ-0eB-KZrgUQ-7nLEbP85Mq03pyLv86WHq4ZC9PRCcQH7b0E7BD1rkBDgKqtyLLEUeHsMDWx1chETOnKhQEJgcLjFdoPCuGdc3ytxQBlKYb-W_GUXlgPcxZtwfbzdFWAnx8J2Coea0vFsEeR4fHwdBHmgpfnZPWI0Z7S23sU74KvWGq3YDvKFalpNflzXFJ5Oi3oPPG05aih59mGGFzeRIlaPjZ00jltY8E788KE_lEobCVohY6GT_W45fovgVxUQcuzAzezwT9O2WeqV5DLgVeoh0PU5HBX0MvIfX6iMJhRUq3GfbdBnXJk-3ZchUAJKnwoAkx8cgV-GVsxLK4HvPfvOloiuvXq7gsJeXeCWmqiRSgIq2=w1637-h920-no

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Custom refers to the trim level.  I believe the dodge custom was the entry or base model.  No mechanical differences in drive train.

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Got the crankshaft back from the machine shop .30 on the main bearings and .40 on the push rod bearings . Now waiting for them to finish the block and check the head. 

image.jpeg

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ID: 39   Posted (edited) · Report post

The main bearings i need to order are0.030 and the pushrods bearings are 0.040

Edited by 51Meadowbrook
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5 hours ago, 51Meadowbrook said:

The main bearings i need to order are0.030 and the pushrods bearings are 0.040

You should consider letting the machine shop order the bearings. Then if there is a problem they have responsibility. Most machine shops can purchase them for less than you and there mark up is minimal so cost wise it should be about the same.I got my bearings from the machine shop and did my own assembly.

crankbearings-1.jpg

51Meadowbrook and Frank Elder like this

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Love seeing the progress you're making on the rebuild and the ideas and contributions from others. As for the water distribution tube, if you haven't gotten to it it, check out the various threads on this on the forum. Rather than a slide hammer, I'd recommend one of the other tools (some home made) that have been used to ease that little sucker out. ;)

Tony

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ID: 42   Posted (edited) · Report post

15 hours ago, 51Meadowbrook said:

The main bearings i need to order are0.030 and the pushrods bearings are 0.040

Pushrod bearings?  Is that another term for Connecting Rod that I haven't heard of?  Is the "P" head truly anything special?  I read the joking statements involving this cylinder head, but I honestly am not familiar with it.  

Any schooling will be greatly appreciated.  

 

Edited by classiccarjack

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3 minutes ago, classiccarjack said:

Pushrod bearings?  Is that another term for Connecting Rod that I haven't heard of?  Is the "P" head truly anything special?  I read the joking statements involving this cylinder head, but I honestly am not familiar with it.  

Any schooling will be greatly appreciated.  

 

where....did you stumble upon a reference to a push rod bearing ? 

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Read post #39 Plymouthy...

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1 hour ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

where....did you stumble upon a reference to a push rod bearing ? 

I am thinking that pushrods bearing may be the same as a connecting rod bearing.  I just wanted to know if the connecting rods can be also called push rods.  Just a term that has a different meaning in an over head valve engine.

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I read post 39 and that is where I asked for the reference as I have never seen 'pushrod' used in this manner...would be a new term application to me and even the English for their often odd names for parts still use the term connecting rod...

you still did not answer the question as to where/what bookd or website made this reference....would be an interesting read I think

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Pushrod bearing and connecting rod bearing are the same creature. I've always heard them called push rod bearings might be a Texas thang we have our own special language down here lol

55 Fargo Spitfire likes this

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Flathead engines don't use push rods. Push rods are used on overhead valve engines. They go between the cam tappets and the rocker arms to push the valves open. Connecting rods connect the crankshaft to the pistons.

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I would be concerned that a connecting rod bearing is available  -.040 for this engine.       

Don Coatney likes this

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