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I recently bought a 1954 Dodge C-1-B Job Rated 1/2 ton from my cousin who inherited it from her Mother, who inherited it from her Husband, who inherited it from his Father who bought it new in January of 1955.  The truck in 100% original as purchased from the dealer.  I even have the original bill of sale showing that the dealer added turn signals, heater, oil filter, and mud tires.  It had sate in storage since 1980 when the old man passed away.  My Aunts husband would go once or twice a month to start it and drive it around the block then park it.  It has just over 42k miles on it.  It had sat untouched since 2003 when my uncle passed away.  When we went to pick it up we put air in the tires, gas in the tank and a new 6 volt battery and it started up and drove into the trailer.  I was excited at that point.  It had no brakes but the tires held air and it ran.  Got it home and into my garage and put brake fluid in an bled out the front brakes.  No leaks up there so went to the rears and the brake fluid is running out the bottom of the drums.  Tried for a couple of days to get the rear hubs off but couldn't get them to budge yet.  I will need to order a hub puller to hopefully get them to break free.  (any advice on removing those will be appreciated)  It smokes quite a bit when running so I may be doing a re-ring in the near future but as long as it runs for a while I will put that off.  Put coolant in the radiator and it was spitting pretty good out the overflow tube.  Figured the cap was bad so went to the parts store and gave them the truck info and took home a new cap.  Put the new cap on and started it to let it run out some old gas from the tank and heard water running.  Looked under the hood and the coolant was running out of the radiator top tank for sure.  When I looked online for reasons the tank might separate from the cores I read that the truck had a 0 pressure system possibly and they sold me a 9# radiator cap.  I'd like to keep the truck completely original but don't know what my options are for a replacement radiator or if the one in the truck can be repaired.  Someone said to go back to the parts store and demand they pay for the repair but I'm not sure how that would even work.  So at this point I need repair/replace the radiator, and repair/replace the brake system.  Otherwise it is in good shape.  I also noticed after bleeding the front brakes they seem like the shoes are stuck out and the fronts are grabbing bad all the time.  Any tips on what might cause that?  Wheel cylinders, brake lines, or master cylinder?  Sorry for the long post I'm just proud of the truck I ended up with.

 

 

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Wow!  That is an impressive looking truck!  I think you got a gem for sure.

Take the radiator to a good old fashioned radiator shop and have them check it out.  My 51 B3B has the original radiator that is just fine, with luck your's will just need to be cleaned and the tanks re-soldered to the core.

You'll need to replace all of the rubber in the brake lines.  Better to do it now and get it over with.  Before thinking about re-ringing or other engine work run Seafoam through the fuel system for a tank or two.  You might be surprised how much it will help.

Good luck!

 

Brad

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That is a great truck! I'm sure if you hunt you can find a radiator if that one can't be repaired. As you mentioned you will need a puller to get those rear drums off. You might be able to rent one from the local parts place but I'd suggest buying one since it sounds like you're going to have this truck for some time. 

The rings may clean up after you get it running a while. I agree I wouldn't touch it until you can drive it a little. 

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I highly recommend going through the entire original brake system as a cheap insurance policy.  Those parts are susceptible to rust that can cause leaks at the master cylinder and wheel cylinders, and the hard lines can rupture without warning.  The rubber lines will definitely need replacing, and the brake shoe linings may certainly delaminate from the shoes as the bonding agent does not age well.

I had my master and wheel cylinders sleeved as the bores were pitted and rebuild kits would still leak after honing.  It was expensive but it was the only option I had 15-20 yrs ago as those parts were no longer available at parts stores and cheap replacements were not available online.  I replaced all of my hard lines with new tubing that had coatings that were not as susceptible to rust as the original lines.  With the entire brake system replaced, I upgraded to DOT 5 fluid which does not absorb moisture like DOT 3 does.  Over 10 yrs later, those 2 trucks still have solid brakes.

I also recommend finding a shop manual and studying it well...reprints are available online, and with that knowledge, you can do most repairs to specifications on that fine buggy ya got thar :cool:

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Wow! Really nice truck... you really scored on that one!

I would agree with what the previous folks said. Replace all of the rubber brake lines and inspect all of the wheel cylinders and such. They can all be purchased new and are not that hard to replace. Same goes for the radiator inspection from a shop and some seafoam in the engine to help clean up the rings. Great advice and it will get you back on the road! 

Post up plenty of pics! We would all like to see more!

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thanks guys,  I'll try the suggestions given.   I tried to post more pictures but the files are too large.  I'll try to get some more with my phone at a smaller file setting. 

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She's a real beauty !  You're a lucky man and I am a jealous one.  It's the first year of the Functional Design Era....1954-56

Edited by Reg Evans
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Any one of us would knock you over to get hands on a beauty like that. So far it sounds like you just need to upgrade/replace those few minor issues then do some driving. Get ready for some fun. Of course update your progress.

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