Jerry Roberts Posted April 7, 2017 Report Share Posted April 7, 2017 Yup , thats right , the old ones would run without the battery in place . They would run on just the generator output . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted April 8, 2017 Report Share Posted April 8, 2017 1 hour ago, Jerry Roberts said: Yup , thats right , the old ones would run without the battery in place . They would run on just the generator output . Thanks for verifying that for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
classiccarjack Posted April 11, 2017 Report Share Posted April 11, 2017 One product that I became found of is Deoxit. Whenever I restore an electrical system, I use this product to clean up contact areas. Really helps with light sockets too! I have resolved a lot of gremlins by using this stuff while cleaning up grounds and contacts.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted April 11, 2017 Report Share Posted April 11, 2017 On 4/2/2017 at 8:09 PM, Zip196 said: Checked voltage with higher idle and it remained constant. Took off neg cable with it running and she died . Any ideas for a replacement generator? Rock auto is my usual go to and they did not have any... BTW,looks like everyone here including me forgot to write the "polarity" word. Pay special attention to it if you ever had to remove and replace a voltage regulator or a generator on a old car. Brand new perfect generators or voltage regulators won't work unless they are polarized. Sometimes these days you will buy a old car or truck with both a new generator and a new voltage regulator that won't keep a battery charged,and this is why. The Motors Auto Repair Manual that you bought recently does an excellent job of explaining the why's and hows of this,and even has excellent photos with arrows to help your understanding. It even explains how with simple words and photos had to clean and file the points in a voltage regulator to get it working,or sometimes,just to adjust it to put out a little more current if it's putting out the minimum and you drive with your headlights on a lot. You DID buy a Motors Manual,right? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
classiccarjack Posted April 11, 2017 Report Share Posted April 11, 2017 Having old motor books and factory Mopar manuals is priceless. I realize that without my extensive Library, I would be struggling a lot more to get repairs done. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zip196 Posted April 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2017 Thanks again knuckleharley! That will be next. And yes, I did get a Motors manual off of the 'bay. I made a new wiring harness last weekend for the coil and gen to volt reg - with no luck... so now I will check on polarizing the volt reg and gen. I also need to make sure I have fuel coming in. I will give the deoxit a try as well. I took her out a couple weeks ago after getting her running and she died down the block - again. Would not even push start so I decided to take a break. Been busy at work and A LOT of outdoor spring projects at the house... Hopefully I will get to work on her during the week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zip196 Posted April 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2017 I would also like to add my next step was going to be to get the gen rebuilt, buy a new volt reg, cap, rotor, plugs and wires - but like Los_Control stated, how can you trust the quality of any newer parts.. guess I will look for a NOS condensor after trying to polarize. That should be pretty easy to find... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted April 17, 2017 Report Share Posted April 17, 2017 50 minutes ago, Zip196 said: I would also like to add my next step was going to be to get the gen rebuilt, buy a new volt reg, cap, rotor, plugs and wires - but like Los_Control stated, how can you trust the quality of any newer parts.. guess I will look for a NOS condensor after trying to polarize. That should be pretty easy to find... I used to know how to check condensors when I was a kid,using a short piece of wire and a magnet. Or at least I THINK that was what I used. Anyone else remember this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-Watson Posted April 17, 2017 Report Share Posted April 17, 2017 On 2017-04-02 at 6:39 PM, knuckleharley said: Huh? My experience has been the opposite. I have never heard of a generator that won't keep electricity going to run an engine,but have never seen an alternator that would. Alternators need a source of electricity in order to produce electricity,while generators create their own. I don't know squat about new cars,so it is possible someone is making alternators now,or more likely electrical systems that store electricity,so the vehicle will run with a dead battery. Actually, the fact the alternator puts out a charge at idle is one of the main reasons Chrysler switched to alternators in 1960-61. They had alternators on the option list for years prior to that, although they needed mechanical voltage rectifiers. No electronic diodes before 1960. They were offered as police and taxi equipment. The important part is that the engine is idling at the factory recommended rpms. In December, 2014 I drove from Toronto, Ontario, to Vancouver, BC. Just past Calgary I refuelled and moved the car to a coffee shop next door. After getting coffee and some donuts, the car would not start. So a kind motorist gave me a boost. Drove the car from there to Golden where I got a room for the night. The Alt gauge was showing a charge all the way, but the lights never flckered. Had the lights, heater fan, radio and wipers (it snowed all the way from Calgary to Golden) on for the whole time. After checking in, I drove to the room (never shut the engine off) and unloaded my luggage for the night. Then turned the engine off. Everything shut off - engine, radio, interior lights, headlights and taillights. Everything shut down. Drove all the way from Calgary to Golden with a battery that was not taking a charge. Had a voltage tester and the battery showed 0. Replaced the battery the next day and continued on to Vancouver. That battery is still in the car and is working fine. So you can drive an alternator equipped car with a dead battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpollo Posted April 17, 2017 Report Share Posted April 17, 2017 I recommend you go ( online) to Mike Hammerberg's collection of Gus Wilson's Model Garage 1925 to1970. There is not much in the way of troubleshooting that is not covered in these very entertaining stories. I have the site on my Favorites List but began reading them in 1960 and was lucky that my dad had kept all his back issues . The very problems you are having have been written about more than once. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
austinsailor Posted April 17, 2017 Report Share Posted April 17, 2017 Yes, and there are about 500 articles to read! You might be awhile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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