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Dynamat


YukonJack

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It will not fall apart as the 70 year old original tends to do.  I used peel and seal from Lowes to do mine.  Did all that the photos show plus the roof for $75.  My original firewall pad was in good shape so I put it back in place on top of the p&s so that it looks original but still has more sound and heat proofing.

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9 minutes ago, casper50 said:

It will not fall apart as the 70 year old original tends to do.  I used peel and seal from Lowes to do mine.  Did all that the photos show plus the roof for $75.  My original firewall pad was in good shape so I put it back in place on top of the p&s so that it looks original but still has more sound and heat proofing.

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post-6321-0-14760700-1463164439.jpg

post-6321-0-07158000-1463164471.jpg

post-6321-0-74970600-1463164485.jpg

How did you get it inside the doors and trunk lid?

Edited by knuckleharley
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19 minutes ago, casper50 said:

cut it into pieces and slap it in.  on the overhead and vertical I hit it with a heat gun and with gloved hand pressed it on.  hasn't come off and I installed it about 9 months ago.

Ok,thanks. So the glue on the back of this stuff isn't so tacky you can't move it around a little to get it into place?

Did you cut it off so it doesn't go all the way to the bottom of the door? I'm a little concerned about this stuff inside doors and trunk lids absorbing rain/car wash water or sweat and causing rust.

Edited by knuckleharley
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the stuff I used is asphalt based with metal backing.  Don't think it's going to absorb any water.  It's pretty sticky but if you don't press it down until you have it where you want it, it will come back off.

Edited by casper50
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6 hours ago, casper50 said:

the stuff I used is asphalt based with metal backing.  Don't think it's going to absorb any water.  It's pretty sticky but if you don't press it down until you have it where you want it, it will come back off.

Ok,thanks. Never handled any of the stuff myself,and was curious.

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Fire and smoke rating just in case? :eek:

DJ

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I use P&S also, this material is sold to seal rain gutters. Sound proofing does NOT require full coverage. A 9" Square deadens an area about 2.5 times its own area. Most, as I did do full floor coverage because it looks impressive and easy to do. I used 6" squares in door and quarter panel pockets. 

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knuckleharley,

   I’ve used this stuff, as well, on another person’s car, and only because he insisted. It did give a solid sound when closing the door. However, I didn’t put it near the edges, as I didn’t want dirt to build up, and eventually/potentially cause rusting, especially at the bottom where the drainage holes were.

   I didn’t use it on our car, because I didn’t like the foil being next to the wiring, and I also wasn’t too keen on that much asphalt-based material being inside of the car. Maybe I’ll be accused of being “overly cautious”, but I’d rather be too careful, rather than too cavalier. If something untoward happened, than I’d REALLY rather be too careful, rather than too cavalier. Just my own personal tho’t on this issue. I think Frank Elder (above herein) might be on the same page as I am . . .

 

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Dr, I would suggest you try to light a piece of this material on fire. I'm going to test the foil issue. I would think that one would have major fire issues long before the sound proofing ignites. JMHO. 

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pflaming,

   I helped a guy use this (or something similar, he got it at Lowes . . .), and he had a compromised wire which shorted on the foil with only an inconvenient result—a speaker circuit no longer worked. However, it could’ve been much worse had it been an energized wire.

   As for the combustibility issue—this same fellow (not the most careful of individuals . . .), was in the roofing business. He had some of this material “go up”. While it didn’t ignite into flames, it did smolder, melt, and stink to high heaven.

   This material was/is intended for use in the construction industry, not in automotives. While it may serve the purpose in a car, that isn’t its intended/original purpose. Based upon my professional training and background, I’m a proponent of using something for it intended purpose, and not trying to “make due” by substituting it for something else.

   While I’m at it, I’ll readily admit that there may be no problems encountered, or at least that the odds of something untoward happening are probably somewhat remote. But again, my personal position is—why chance it???

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39 minutes ago, DrDoctor said:

pflaming,

   I helped a guy use this (or something similar, he got it at Lowes . . .), and he had a compromised wire which shorted on the foil with only an inconvenient result—a speaker circuit no longer worked. However, it could’ve been much worse had it been an energized wire.

   As for the combustibility issue—this same fellow (not the most careful of individuals . . .), was in the roofing business. He had some of this material “go up”. While it didn’t ignite into flames, it did smolder, melt, and stink to high heaven.

   This material was/is intended for use in the construction industry, not in automotives. While it may serve the purpose in a car, that isn’t its intended/original purpose. Based upon my professional training and background, I’m a proponent of using something for it intended purpose, and not trying to “make due” by substituting it for something else.

   While I’m at it, I’ll readily admit that there may be no problems encountered, or at least that the odds of something untoward happening are probably somewhat remote. But again, my personal position is—why chance it???

Guys,how about running your wires through shrink tubing as it goes from rear to front and from the engine to the dash? I know it already has one thickness of rubber/plastic to prevent shorts,but one more layer,as well as plastic grommets where it passes through metal ,along with proper fuses should greatly reduce the risk,wouldn't it?

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8 hours ago, DrDoctor said:

pflaming,

   I helped a guy use this (or something similar, he got it at Lowes . . .), and he had a compromised wire which shorted on the foil with only an inconvenient result—a speaker circuit no longer worked. However, it could’ve been much worse had it been an energized wire.

   As for the combustibility issue—this same fellow (not the most careful of individuals . . .), was in the roofing business. He had some of this material “go up”. While it didn’t ignite into flames, it did smolder, melt, and stink to high heaven.

   This material was/is intended for use in the construction industry, not in automotives. While it may serve the purpose in a car, that isn’t its intended/original purpose. Based upon my professional training and background, I’m a proponent of using something for it intended purpose, and not trying to “make due” by substituting it for something else.

   While I’m at it, I’ll readily admit that there may be no problems encountered, or at least that the odds of something untoward happening are probably somewhat remote. But again, my personal position is—why chance it???

I'm sure you're just really concerned for Paul and his tendency towards fires....

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   I’m not really very concerned about the material igniting, in and of itself. What I’m more concerned with—should there be a fire, this material may contribute to it, causing a real conflagration; or, it may produce toxic fumes; or both. Having a car go up in flames is bad enough. Having someone injured is many times worse. Having someone die is obviously the worst outcome imaginable.

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   As a follow-up on the insulation material being discussed herein—I called a roofing company, and asked them about using it inside of a car. They said they only use it on the exterior of structures, and not on the inside, but they went on to say that they didn’t think it’d cause any problems in a car. They also said it could leave an odor, but if it did, it wouldn’t last too long. They suggested leaving the interior out of it until the material has completely gassed, and there was no longer an odor present, which would take longer the colder the temperature of the car’s metal.

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I used Lizard Skin in my 48. Any opinions on this would be appreciated. Should I use a similar mat over the Lizard Skin? I went POR 15, then the sound skin and finally the ceramic heat skin

thanks

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I would suggest using material for its intended purpose.  Dynamat, or equivalent, is engineered and intended for use in vehicles, not houses.  Granted, like the $500 toilet seat on AWACS planes, specific engineering hikes prices up.  In my book, Dynamat is merely an updated version of the jute, paper, felt, etc. padding/sound deadening/insulating materials of old.  No downside to using it if you choose.  I used it on the firewall of our Terraplane - the original insulation was so deteriorated I couldn't tell what it was made of, but the cover is still good, so I reinstalled it.  No one but me (and now you'uns) is the wiser, and it is much quieter in the interior.  Definitely easier to work with when warm, and once it's pressed on and molded into all the grooves and such - it wants to stay.  So if you forgot to leave a ground clear, it's a bear to get the stuff off. 

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6 hours ago, RedRider said:

I used Lizard Skin in my 48. Any opinions on this would be appreciated. Should I use a similar mat over the Lizard Skin? I went POR 15, then the sound skin and finally the ceramic heat skin

thanks

Lizard skin is an amazing product!  I highly recommend it.  Being that it can be applied similar to the way that paint is applied, you can get it in all the nooks and crannies...  It really works well, and seals off the surface to help prevent rust.

 I have used Dynomat and Lizard Skin. Lizard Skin takes a lot more prep work to apply, but we'll worth it.

 

 

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2 minutes ago, classiccarjack said:

Lizard skin is an amazing product!  I highly recommend it.  Being that it can be applied similar to the way that paint is applied, you can get it in all the nooks and crannies...  It really works well, and seals off the surface to help prevent rust.

 I have used Dynomat and Lizard Skin. Lizard Skin takes a lot more prep work to apply, but we'll worth it.

 

 

Tell me more about this lizard skin stuff. Never heard of it. Could use some links.

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I used a home-made version of lizard skin covered by the peel and seal in my coupe on the floors, inside the doors and on the firewall about 5-6 years ago. Never had an issue with odor and only one small piece of the peel and seal on the passenger side pick panel below the dash that ever came loose. Pressed it back on and hit it with the heat gun, never came loose again. 

If you look at the lizard skin site it says that their "paint" is filled "with air-filled insulating/reflective and sound-absorbing particles." With some research I found that those are basically micro-balloons which are used extensively in the aircraft industry. So, I made my own using Elastomeric Reflective Roof Coating designed to paint the roof of mobile homes. It offers reflective cooling and water-proofing. I then mixed in micro-balloons from an aircraft supply company and painted it on the inside of the car.

Once the paint was dry, I covered it all in peel and seal using the heat gun briefly on the vertical areas to ensure bonding. 

The difference in both noise and heat transfer was obvious. Door had a heavy solid sound when shut rather than being tinny. Heat here in the Dallas area is bad enough without the addition heat transferring through the firewall and floors. The combination of the home-made lizard skin and peel and seal made a noticeable difference.

I never got around to doing the roof as I was waiting until I redid the headliner, but with what I saw on the floors I believe it would have made a big difference. Sold the car a couple weeks ago so will never be able to know for sure.  

  

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I used lizardskin when it first came out. Stuff was amazing on sound and heat blocking. Then they separated sound deadner and heat insulation,the price is 4 times now. I found some Industrial stuff that is the same for a affordable price. It is used to insulate steam pipes, chilled water tanks and building roofs. 

Brian

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