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March Madness and the 55 Fargo


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Hey all, today it was cool, dry and just had to go fora drive, this time to the city (Winnipeg), temp - 10c or about 18f, sunny and super dry.

Truck performed very well, heat okay, except going home against a north wind, could feel the air leaks into the cab, but not bad at all.

55 mph for most of the trip on a small slower highway, on the big highway fora bit too going 60-65 mph.

Truck rides like big empty truck, gotta do some spring work, maybe some anti-sway or pan hard bars too.

I do not think this truck would be fun on a 1000 mile road trip.

My other issue, 228 engine, could be a little tired, but with 3.23 gears, she is a bit doggy from 40-55 mph, just the nature of the beast.

I go a little driveline vibration still, and I suspect the fabbed driveshaft where the the rear yoke was farm welded in the bush, might be an issue....LOL

I will have to pull all springs and shackels apart, and lower trucka bit, going to lower gears, and an overdrive type trans is in the future, this old T98 Acme is an old bull and a bit noisy.

Come along for a ride,

 

 

Edited by Rockwood
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You will like the better handling once you lower her down a bit. Give that a shot before you try the sway bars...

However, if you must install some sway bars, take plenty of pics for the rest of us who have thought of trying them!

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On 3/13/2017 at 10:36 PM, 59bisquik said:

You will like the better handling once you lower her down a bit. Give that a shot before you try the sway bars...

However, if you must install some sway bars, take plenty of pics for the rest of us who have thought of trying them!

Heres my plan, my king pins, tie rod ends, drag link are all new, so are the shocks.

The steering box has a small amount of slop, but do not want to tighten it anymore.

I have not touched he springs, bushing or shackles.

I want to soften the ride and drop her maybe 2 inches, no where near as you did, do not want a drop axle at this point in time.

I might add a steering stabilzer to the equation....

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Okay out for another drive last night about 40 miles worth, all went flawless.

Issues that still bug me, my throttle linkage hangs up a bit, have had it apart, and tried different springs, so need to find a permanent solution t this matter.

Truck rides like a truck, ore like a big truck empty, the bounce you get, don't mind it, but want to do springs bushing and shackles this year.

At 60-65 on a decent flat surface, all is great, not as much fun around town, with throttle hanging up a bit....LOL

 

 

 

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There's a gal in Hawaii that was looking for a tailgate for her 55 Fargo. If you know where she can get one you might be able to swap videos with her. 

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These are changes on my '52 B3B. Disassembled all four leaf racks ad removed 2nd to the bottom leaf. Sanded each leaf and assembled with anole silicone spray. That lowered the body two inches front and back. 15" rims and radial tires. 3.73 rear axle, retained the 218  engine and 3 on the tree. 27" diameter rear tires. I cruse at 60/65 and accelerate to 70 to pass the big rigs, but I usually just hang back and let them set the pace.

i have a comfortable ride, will add a 9" steel welded shut cube filled with iron shavings mounted below the bed just behind the axle. My dad did that to his half ton trucks, it lowers the center of gravity and eliminates the rear end bouncing for better cornering and much better over all ride. I have disc brakes up front. I wish I had put in a 3:55 rear axle with disc brakes, yet pleased as is. So this gives you one way to set up a truck. 

Friday caravaning north 160 miles to the BBQ. Should be a great run. 

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31 minutes ago, vikingminer49er said:

There's a gal in Hawaii that was looking for a tailgate for her 55 Fargo. If you know where she can get one you might be able to swap videos with her. 

guy on facebook has several for sale, but they aren't cheap.

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Good trucks and parts aren't cheap, and cheap trucks and parts aren't good, generally speaking. :cool:

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1 hour ago, pflaming said:

These are changes on my '52 B3B. Disassembled all four leaf racks ad removed 2nd to the bottom leaf. Sanded each leaf and assembled with anole silicone spray. That lowered the body two inches front and back. 15" rims and radial tires. 3.73 rear axle, retained the 218  engine and 3 on the tree. 27" diameter rear tires. I cruse at 60/65 and accelerate to 70 to pass the big rigs, but I usually just hang back and let them set the pace.

i have a comfortable ride, will add a 9" steel welded shut cube filled with iron shavings mounted below the bed just behind the axle. My dad did that to his half ton trucks, it lowers the center of gravity and eliminates the rear end bouncing for better cornering and much better over all ride. I have disc brakes up front. I wish I had put in a 3:55 rear axle with disc brakes, yet pleased as is. So this gives you one way to set up a truck. 

Friday caravaning north 160 miles to the BBQ. Should be a great run. 

 

We sell rear ends with disk brakes from Ford Explorers and they work out pretty good.

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6 hours ago, vikingminer49er said:

There's a gal in Hawaii that was looking for a tailgate for her 55 Fargo. If you know where she can get one you might be able to swap videos with her. 

Good luck on that 1.

The last time I found 1 and was negotiating a deal for someone on this forum, they didn't follow through.

I will find her 1 it's going to be $1000 cdn dollars...only joking, but seriously can find them, but it will not be cheap.

If she is even remotely serious, have her contact me through you via PM

BTW Hawaii, Colorado, she related to Dog the Bounty Hunter by chance...

Edited by Rockwood
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Contacted her and she's still looking. Her truck is a 56 Fargo.  My error.

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6 hours ago, pflaming said:

These are changes on my '52 B3B. Disassembled all four leaf racks ad removed 2nd to the bottom leaf. Sanded each leaf and assembled with anole silicone spray. That lowered the body two inches front and back. 15" rims and radial tires. 3.73 rear axle, retained the 218  engine and 3 on the tree. 27" diameter rear tires. I cruse at 60/65 and accelerate to 70 to pass the big rigs, but I usually just hang back and let them set the pace.

i have a comfortable ride, will add a 9" steel welded shut cube filled with iron shavings mounted below the bed just behind the axle. My dad did that to his half ton trucks, it lowers the center of gravity and eliminates the rear end bouncing for better cornering and much better over all ride. I have disc brakes up front. I wish I had put in a 3:55 rear axle with disc brakes, yet pleased as is. So this gives you one way to set up a truck. 

Friday caravaning north 160 miles to the BBQ. Should be a great run. 

Paul, I am going to do exactly what you did, but most likely will replace shackles and bushings while I am at it.

I did a big assessment under the truck today, I still cannot get grease into the lower zerks on the kingpins, the pins are tight and spin well.

I could not grease into a few of the leaf spring zerks either.

I tried everything, heat removed zerks, penetrating oil inside of the zerk holes, only 1 opened up.

I need to add a few springs to the drivers rear pack, as whats there are mismatched, I did not do that.

I am considering a steering damper, my steering is pretty tight, but this would make it more solid I think..

20170325_133723_resized.jpg

 

20170325_141051_resized.jpg

Edited by Rockwood
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4 minutes ago, vikingminer49er said:

Contacted her and she's still looking. Her truck is a 56 Fargo.  My error.

55 56 there the same, a  tailgate from the early 50s should work too.

High side or lowside?

Lemme know, I will get one if she has the dough...

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I am NOT an expert on this mechanical stuff, so take note of that. But I do not think a steering damper will correct issues like miss matched king pins, springs, etc. Of the following I certainly am not sure, but I surmise that steering dampers were to assist sreering control on rural wash board road surfaces,  so I would put my attention else where. Before I ever drove my truck, I took the spindles to a quality shop and had them true them to thenselves with new king pins in them. If these are Not perfect, you will never get a good driving vehicle. Those plugged zeros are a huge red flag to me. FWIW.

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I have great luck with plugged up grease fittings  by removing the zerk and taking a small drill bit-say 1/8" dia.(   somewhat smaller than the opening, but close)  and by  Hand turning in the bit in the grease hole where the grease zerk was until it ran into solid steel. Replace the zerk with a new one and try greasing again- preferable with the suspension lifted with no weight on it! Always managed it get them all opened and taking grease again- a few took several tries.

Another thought ,best of luck-

DJ

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18 minutes ago, DJ194950 said:

I have great luck with plugged up grease fittings  by removing the zerk and taking a small drill bit-say 1/8" dia.(   somewhat smaller than the opening, but close)  and by  Hand turning in the bit in the grease hole where the grease zerk was until it ran into solid steel. Replace the zerk with a new one and try greasing again- preferable with the suspension lifted with no weight on it! Always managed it get them all opened and taking grease again- a few took several tries.

Another thought ,best of luck-

DJ

Thanx Doug, have tried your method, but zerks all shoot grease fine, but will replace them and try again.

The shackles need to be replaced, but would like em greased up in the mean time.

The king pins turn and do not have play, so really want to get them taking grease....

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1 hour ago, pflaming said:

I am NOT an expert on this mechanical stuff, so take note of that. But I do not think a steering damper will correct issues like miss matched king pins, springs, etc. Of the following I certainly am not sure, but I surmise that steering dampers were to assist sreering control on rural wash board road surfaces,  so I would put my attention else where. Before I ever drove my truck, I took the spindles to a quality shop and had them true them to thenselves with new king pins in them. If these are Not perfect, you will never get a good driving vehicle. Those plugged zeros are a huge red flag to me. FWIW.

My steering is very good, zerks are not plugged, but somewhere in the inner cavity, there is dried or rusty grease no doubt.

The truck handles and steers well, and I do drive rougher roads a lot so a damper might be nice, not sure though till I try it.

I hope to change all shackles and bushings, pull spring packs and get everything nice and clean, and see what it does.

The king pins I shall work until the 2 bottom zerks take grease.

I am not the type to just try and grease em and go onto the next, I pull the zerks clean things out, use a torch and penetrant, and go at like that.

In the end new components are the usual best answer, my tie rod ends, idler arm and shocks are all brand new. 

I have never had any uneven tire wear patterns to date...

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I was talking not  just the zerks themselves, but where they are screwed in the suspension pieces.

Guess I was not very clear!

Try the drill method with the zerks removed and set aside and do the other. Only once or twice I had to put a small amount of heat to the part that did not still take grease after cleaning out the zerk mounting hole, clean again  with drill and wire and reinstall zerk and try again while still somewhat warm. Good luck,

DJ

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