The Oil Soup Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 Here is a link to make your own press. This is what I did on mine with the new springs.http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/chassis-reversing-spring-eyes.90824/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu Posted March 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2017 17 hours ago, The Oil Soup said: Here is a link to make your own press. This is what I did on mine with the new springs.http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/chassis-reversing-spring-eyes.90824/ ok thank you very much....as soon as my husband gets to doing the front suspension ill let him know about this and to check it out before anything. once more thank you for all the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 here are some pics of the cabs side and front view. my husband is starting to take off the blue paint to get it ready for primer. he is going to take apart the front end but from what he tells me, bolts just seem to break off during removal. and now he tells me I need to get him an extraction tool. btw....if anyone has any input on which is the best way to go about extracting the remaining part of the bolt with minimal damage I would like your input on it. also which extraction tool would be best to use cause he thinks any way he goes about it he would have to rethread it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 here are some pictures of the front suspension. he wants input on your opinion on what he should change out or repair concerning this.......any and all input he told me to tell you guys he greatly appreciates it. Hello my name is jerry jr (michelles husband) I feel like now is a good time as any to introduce myself to the forum. Also a BIG THANK YOU to you all for all the help and advice on this project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 What type of extraction tools depends on what it broken what it's in and if any is still sticking out. Also you should use some heat to try and avoid breaking them in the first place. You can try welding a washer to the remnants and then a nut to the washer. There are also sockets with a sort of flower pattern to them that will grip if some is sticking out. Otherwise you'll need to drill and try and turn out what's left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 This might or might not help. Bolt, stud extraction tool. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Also remember that most of this truck is fine thread. They are more susceptible to breaking or binding up when the threads are dirty. When removing bolts with threads exposed, the best bet is to wire brush the threads to clean the debris out or even use a die to chase the threads first. Heat and penetrating oil are also your friends. As for the front suspension, most likely it is the original equipment. All the tie rod ends, king pins etc could stand to be replaced for a nice smooth ride. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonejacklarry Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 7 hours ago, 56 dodge c3 jobrated truck said: bolts just seem to break off during removal. and now he tells me I need to get him an extraction tool. I have never been a fan of ez-outs or other brands of extraction tools. I used to be until I broke one of them off in a hole. You cannot drill a hardened ez-out so you are pretty well left with going to a machine shop for help. The trick is to buy several cans of Kroil or other good brand of penetrating oil. Spray the bejesus out of every nut and/or bolt that you see on the entire truck. . Then go watch TV or mow the grass until tomorrow and then spray the nuts, etc,. again. The next day you might try loosening the fastener. If it squeaks, stop and spray some more. The blue wrench might come in handy at this point. Patience is a virtue with rusty fasteners! If you spray every single fastener several times, it ought to help you in a couple of months when you finally get around to taking something apart. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu Posted March 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 (edited) On 3/10/2017 at 7:07 PM, lonejacklarry said: I have never been a fan of ez-outs or other brands of extraction tools. I used to be until I broke one of them off in a hole. You cannot drill a hardened ez-out so you are pretty well left with going to a machine shop for help. The trick is to buy several cans of Kroil or other good brand of penetrating oil. Spray the bejesus out of every nut and/or bolt that you see on the entire truck. . Then go watch TV or mow the grass until tomorrow and then spray the nuts, etc,. again. The next day you might try loosening the fastener. If it squeaks, stop and spray some more. The blue wrench might come in handy at this point. Patience is a virtue with rusty fasteners! If you spray every single fastener several times, it ought to help you in a couple of months when you finally get around to taking something apart. My husband will be doing exactly what you said to do..... Thank you very much.... Also my husband said he thought patience was learned not a virtue...LOL And since he wasn't born with it he is going to have to learn it... LOL Edited March 12, 2017 by 56 dodge c3 jobrated truck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu Posted March 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 OK today we had our garage open looking over the truck and noticed this under the passenger side of the cab......... We cant help but think something is missing... Can someone please help us out by telling us what this bracket is actually for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Davey Posted March 12, 2017 Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 Just a guess - that could be the bracket that holds the master cylinder and clutch linkage on right hand drive trucks. Mine is 1500 miles away and I won't see it until mid-May or I'd look at mine. Look at the bracket on the driver's side for comparison. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu Posted March 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2017 1 hour ago, William Davey said: Just a guess - that could be the bracket that holds the master cylinder and clutch linkage on right hand drive trucks. Mine is 1500 miles away and I won't see it until mid-May or I'd look at mine. Look at the bracket on the driver's side for comparison. Thank you William my husband is going to look at that right now.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted March 13, 2017 Report Share Posted March 13, 2017 Yup, William is correct. That is the master cylinder bracket for a right hand drive vehicle. It's supposed to be empty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu Posted March 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2017 18 hours ago, 59bisquik said: Yup, William is correct. That is the master cylinder bracket for a right hand drive vehicle. It's supposed to be empty. Ok thank you very much and to keep you up todate here is the picture of the back of the cab where my husband has primered it. Now he is working on the rest of the cab. Since he is working alone on the truck he is doing it in sections and he doesnt got any concerns with over spray cause he has done it before with our Monte Carlo. Which he also did in sections with spray paint..... The car looked like our truck when we got. Heres a picture he wants your opion on it. Last thing to complete it is smog then we can actually drive it around.... We also are going to change the rims to rally rims as soon as we can.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted March 13, 2017 Report Share Posted March 13, 2017 A 1976 still needs to be smogged here in Ca.?? I thought after the car gets to to old enough it was No longer required. ?? Have not checked on such things for years as both my older cars (1950) never had smog and is not required in Ca. to be smogged in any way to be licensed. Looking good to me! DJ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted March 13, 2017 Report Share Posted March 13, 2017 1974 and older are smog free in the People's Republik of Kalifornia. They quit doing the 25 year or older deal many years ago unfortunately. 56 Dodge.... did you get my personal message about the throttle linkage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu Posted March 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2017 18 hours ago, DJ194950 said: A 1976 still needs to be smogged here in Ca.?? I thought after the car gets to to old enough it was No longer required. ?? Have not checked on such things for years as both my older cars (1950) never had smog and is not required in Ca. to be smogged in any way to be licensed. Looking good to me! DJ Thank you. It is actually 1975 is the last year that doesn't need to be smogged. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu Posted March 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2017 18 hours ago, 59bisquik said: 1974 and older are smog free in the People's Republik of Kalifornia. They quit doing the 25 year or older deal many years ago unfortunately. 56 Dodge.... did you get my personal message about the throttle linkage? I got the message today and did send you a message back. sorry for the late response. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu Posted March 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 The engine to our truck....... Don't really know if anything is missing.... The carb and fuel pump we have. not sure if the carb is the correct one to the truck. Can anyone tell us what else might be missing it would be very helpful to us... Thank you all for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 I am trying to see what might be missing in this photo. Besides the parts you listed and some heater hoses, it looks mostly in tact... However, that is not a 259 or 270 poly engine which would be stock to that truck. Which engine is it? Later model 318 LA? Right in front of the intake manifold on the top of the block should be the number to decode what engine it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu Posted March 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2017 On 3/15/2017 at 3:36 PM, 59bisquik said: I am trying to see what might be missing in this photo. Besides the parts you listed and some heater hoses, it looks mostly in tact... However, that is not a 259 or 270 poly engine which would be stock to that truck. Which engine is it? Later model 318 LA? Right in front of the intake manifold on the top of the block should be the number to decode what engine it is. Thank you for letting us know about the engine we would have ordered the wrong parts for it. We looked on the engine block and we did find these numbers 1618729. How can we find out about the engine size and if it belongs to the truck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted March 21, 2017 Report Share Posted March 21, 2017 (edited) The best I can tell from the number and limited info I found. Looks to be a 1956 277 Plymouth engine. I did find rebuild kits/parts on eBay and also Egge Machine. Quick search found this... The 277 was the first A-block engine, produced for 1956 and sharing almost nothing but the basic concepts with other engines built by Chrysler. Bore is 3.75 in (95.3 mm) and stroke is 3.13 in (79.5 mm) for a piston displacement of 276.1 cu in (4.5 L). It was replaced by the 301 in 1957, except for in low-priced Plaza models where it continued to be used during the 1957 model year.[1] Edited March 21, 2017 by 59bisquik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu Posted March 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2017 On 3/20/2017 at 8:36 PM, 59bisquik said: The best I can tell from the number and limited info I found. Looks to be a 1956 277 Plymouth engine. I did find rebuild kits/parts on eBay and also Egge Machine. Quick search found this... The 277 was the first A-block engine, produced for 1956 and sharing almost nothing but the basic concepts with other engines built by Chrysler. Bore is 3.75 in (95.3 mm) and stroke is 3.13 in (79.5 mm) for a piston displacement of 276.1 cu in (4.5 L). It was replaced by the 301 in 1957, except for in low-priced Plaza models where it continued to be used during the 1957 model year.[1] We are confused....... We are not saying you are wrong in any way. Its just that on the vin decoder (t37.com) it says our truck is a 55 with a 259 engine and the papers we have says its a 56. Then you have told us that by your research and the number we gave you off the engine block that its a 56 with a 277 engine. Hopefully you can see why we are confused. We also hope hope you dont get fustrated or upset with us. This has really confused us even more now especially since my husband has taken the front clip off to take the engine out to start working on it. I will be posting more pictures up later today or tomorrow. Now is there any place on the engine block that would say the trucks vin number? We did not expect this to be so confusing. Thank you for the help you are giving us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 (edited) Don't get confused. You are correct, it should be a 259 for your stock pickup. However, at some point in time, somebody replaced the Dodge 259 engine with the Plymouth 277 out of a Belvedere or similar. So when ordering parts for the truck, 54 thru 56 should be the same, with the exception of certain cab pieces like glass and door seals. When ordering parts for the engine, use 56 Plymouth 277. Mine is an early model 55 C1B. However the vin decoder says it's a 54. A late model 55 or 56 has the wrap around windshield like yours. Nothing to get to excited about! Here is a pic of a 259 or 270. Notice the diffference in the valve covers. Also notice the intake manifold is just a manifold and a valley pan seals the top of the block. The 277 has more traditional rectangle valve covers and the intake manifold seals the top of the block and uses no valley pan. Just the pics of the 259/270 Poly valve covers make the ID pretty easy. Edited March 23, 2017 by 59bisquik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
56 c3 & 47 wfa 32 dodge pu Posted March 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 16 hours ago, 59bisquik said: Don't get confused. You are correct, it should be a 259 for your stock pickup. However, at some point in time, somebody replaced the Dodge 259 engine with the Plymouth 277 out of a Belvedere or similar. So when ordering parts for the truck, 54 thru 56 should be the same, with the exception of certain cab pieces like glass and door seals. When ordering parts for the engine, use 56 Plymouth 277. Mine is an early model 55 C1B. However the vin decoder says it's a 54. A late model 55 or 56 has the wrap around windshield like yours. Nothing to get to excited about! Here is a pic of a 259 or 270. Notice the diffference in the valve covers. Also notice the intake manifold is just a manifold and a valley pan seals the top of the block. The 277 has more traditional rectangle valve covers and the intake manifold seals the top of the block and uses no valley pan. Just the pics of the 259/270 Poly valve covers make the ID pretty easy. Ok so our engine is juat a regular 277? Or is it still considered a poly hemi? My husband said he loves the engine............... Also would you be able to tell us if it is possible to put a engine and transmission from a 46 dodge into our truck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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