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Timing issue


librado65

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So my cousin and I have been working on my '48 Dodge. I pulled out the distributor to install a pertronix kit and coil. Now the engine cranks, there is spark, there is fuel, but will not actually start. My cousin says that I probably screwed up the timing and he says he doesn't know how to fix the timing neither do I. Now before I get the car on a hauler and take it to a shop...I just wanted to make sure I'm not crazy and ask if this does sound like a case of timing going bad after pulling out my distributor?

Edited by librado65
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You might have the distributor install but you might be out of sequence or degress by 180 degrees.  The end of the dizzy has a notch that fits into the slot in the oil pump. So take the dizzy out again and spin the shaft about 180 degrees and then put it back into the engine block.  See if the car then starts.  I always mak my block and a point onthe dizzy body to make a reference point so that I am installing back into the same location.

 

Also make sure that the  notch is fully inserted intot he notch inthe top of the oil pump. I had a instance in which i thought I had the dizzy installed and intot he knothch but it was just resting onthe top of the oil pump and then I became 180 degees out of sequence or time. Just rotate the shaft 180 degrees and this solved the issue.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com 

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Any time the distributor is removed and reinstalled, especially if the ignition components have been replaced, the timing will need to be reset. This is done properly with a timing light. If you don't have a timing light, or the knowledge to use one, I highly recommend that you get one and learn, or take it to someone that can do it for you.

As Rich states, you may just have it 180 off. But even if you pull it, turn the rotor 1/2 turn, reinstall it, and it starts, you will still need to make some fine tuning, with a timing light, to get it correct.

Merle

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How to set timing and other good things are explained in a service repair manual. Best to get a original or even a reproduction for the car but a older general repair manual will explain the process and getting a manual will be much cheaper then a tow truck ride and a bill from the garage. You could even  try the the local library they should have a manual that will explain the process.

 

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I had the same issue, and it was the timing.

Even when we set it to TDC on No.1 cylinder it would not start and we kept on flooding it, which just made it impossible.

The problem we found was the clamp that holds the dissy in place, was bent, and was not clamping the dissy sufficiently. Resulting in the dissy twisting and changing the timing when we cranked motor. Might be worth checking.

An easy way to do a basic check on the timing without the motor going and without a timing light is to buy a ToolPRO Spark Plug in-line lead checker. Mine cost me $10.

Just install it between the plug lead for no. 1 cylinder and the spark plug in no. 1.

Then turn on ignition, rotate the motor by hand. I have a crank handle, or just turn the fan keeping the tension on the V belt. It is easier if you take out the other spark plugs.

When the tester light glows, the no. 1 is firing. Check where the timing marks on the pulley are and adjust dissy until the pulley marks are at TDC when no. 1 fires.

This should get motor started (if timing is the problem).

Spark plug in line checker.jpg

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Static time it. Engine doesn't need to run to time it. Get #1 Cylinder to T.D.C. (Top Dead Center) Take Coil Wire from Distributer and hold next to a ground about 1/4" away from say a bare spot on the block. Loosen Distributor, turn ignition key on. turn distributor back and forth until a spark jumps at the ground. Lock Distributor bolt.

Now you are Static Timed. Start the Engine and hook up a Timing Light and dynamic Time it as desired.

Tom

 

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it would be nice if and when posters ask for information on hw to fix something that they would at least replay stating that they have tried our suggestions or provided a status ask to what is still happening.  When you keep asking for help but do not post a status we wonder if you have even looked at the posting with our replies.

 

Please provide an update as to if your issue has been resolved or any progress made on the issue.

 

Rich Hartung

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Sorry guys I have not updated. I have been busy working overtime but I am going to try your suggestions this weekend. I thought all hope was lost. I got the manual as well and been skimming through it. Never really been a mechanical guy more of a body/paint guy so this is new territory for me. Thanks yall will be trying it out this weekend again...

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Will need to follow the basics and get the distributor dropped in right. It is my humble opinion, you do not have to be to critical with getting it exactly tdc.

with number 1 plug removed, bump it over and when you feel compression coming out the plug hole, it is at, or about  tdc.

While bumping it over, you are only moving the engine a couple inches or less, not cranking it over. So the number 1 piston will not travel far when you feel the compression and the rotor will still be somewhere close to pointing at number 1 plug wire.

Now pull your dizzy cap and see if it is close to pointing at number 1, or is the rotor pointing to the opposite side of the cap away from number 1?

When you drop the distributor in, it is either right, or it is 180 degrees off. There is no inbetween.

When you say it was popping back through the carb, almost sounds like it is 180 out.

 

 

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Well I gave up and called a mobile mechanic in town. He said it was a combination of old gas in the carb and timining issue. He picking it up this Friday. I told me him to get my disc brakes and parking brake installed while he's got it as well. Let's hope it all goes well. Thanks everyone for your replies

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