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New Project 1950 B-2-C Original


WarriorDog

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  • 3 weeks later...

I stripped the front brakes out down to the spindles and left it at that so I can still roll the chassis around until the disc brake conversion kit and parts get here.  I'm taking it to a friends house to put the disc brakes on.  He's got a machine shop in his garage and the tools to do the work on the spindles.  The backing plates were in really good shape.  The brake shoes fell apart when I pulled the drums.  Shoe metal is rusted.  Wheel cyclinders and all the other bolts were easy to get out.  No heat required for anything - yet.  I'm going to go ahead and replace the kingpins while it's apart, too.    I just put the drums back on so it will roll off the trailer easily when needed.  

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Great looking truck! Love how you're bringing it back. Personal opinion, I do not like white bumpers. I would strip and paint black, or look for a set chrome ones in good original condition. Might have to fabricate brackets to mount them. Rear end change was a good move as these trucks are low geared. Where did you get the new gas tank? It looks great.

Edited by Mike36
Forgot to ask question.
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1 hour ago, WarriorDog said:

Mar - K

has Mar-K fixed the middle bed strips yet to match the edges?  Last time I saw any they humps were bigger than they should be and didn't match the edge strips.

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1 hour ago, Mike36 said:

Great looking truck! Love how you're bringing it back. Personal opinion, I do not like white bumpers. I would strip and paint black, or look for a set chrome ones in good original condition. Might have to fabricate brackets to mount them. Rear end change was a good move as these trucks are low geared. Where did you get the new gas tank? It looks great.

The tank is the one from TanksInc.com  and along with the sending unit it was right at $300.  It is the one for earlier vehicles and I think I'll have to mock up a mounting bracket since this one is 2 or 3 inches shorter than the original.  It might not be a perfect fit, but, It's new, it's another thing I wont have to revisit (probably) in my lifetime.  Get it done while I've got it apart and be done with it.  

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=349/category_id=68/mode=prod/prd349.htm

 

I have the bumpers being straightened and powder coated.  The powder coat is "rust' colored and will be cleared over.  I'll see how it turns out and then decide if I want that on the wheels too.  Brackets for the rear are being powder coated in flat black along with a couple of other parts like the tailgate hinges and a few more things.  I'm not trying to take it to original but want the things I have apart done so that I never have to fool with them again.  New Brake lines, New fuel line, rear end and disc brake conversion all while I've got apart now.  It's much easier to access some of this stuff with everything off the chassis.  

 

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1 hour ago, ggdad1951 said:

has Mar-K fixed the middle bed strips yet to match the edges?  Last time I saw any they humps were bigger than they should be and didn't match the edge strips.

I haven't even opened the shipping tube the strips arrived in, yet.  Maybe I need to do that this weekend.  Any suggestions on attaching the side edge strips to the bed sides?  How to remove the existing edge strips?  Grind gently?  I thought about just grinding off the old and using a carriage bolt with an acorn nut on the outside of the bed to attched the edge rails.  I can weld them on but then there's the issue of having a coating on them , specifically the back sides of the edge rails,  that wont rust through.  

Edited by WarriorDog
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34 minutes ago, WarriorDog said:

I haven't even opened the shipping tube the strips arrived in, yet.  Maybe I need to do that this weekend.  Any suggestions on attaching the side edge strips to the bed sides?  How to remove the existing edge strips?  Grind gently?  I thought about just grinding off the old and using a carriage bolt with an acorn nut on the outside of the bed to attched the edge rails.  I can weld them on but then there's the issue of having a coating on them , specifically the back sides of the edge rails,  that wont rust through.  

I clamped pieces of angle iron up against the bottom of the existing side rails as a guide. I then located and drilled through the spot welds. Once it was all cleaned up and ready, I set the new side rails against my clamped angles (reference) and clamped the new pieces to the bed sides. I then plug welded through the holes in the bed sides that were made when drilling out the spot welds on the old ones.

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42 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said:

I clamped pieces of angle iron up against the bottom of the existing side rails as a guide. I then located and drilled through the spot welds. Once it was all cleaned up and ready, I set the new side rails against my clamped angles (reference) and clamped the new pieces to the bed sides. I then plug welded through the holes in the bed sides that were made when drilling out the spot welds on the old ones.

Excellent information Thanks.   

Once you drilled through the spot welds, did the angle strips just kind of fall off?  I can see lots of corrosion all up and down the strips.  Almost like the strips are continuously  welded all the way up the bed sides.    Guess I'll have to start tearing the strips off to see?

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I doubt that they would be welded continuously, unless someone got happy with a welder. Use a drill bit that is a little larger than the spot welds, maybe up to 3/8", and drill all the way through at each spot weld. This should remove any bonded metal and leave a nice size hole for the plug weld. I found that with my limited welding skills the larger hole was easier to plug weld. If it is welded down the top edge, get a thin cut-off wheel for an angle grinder and cut away the weld to free the strips.

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On March 9, 2017 at 0:09 PM, WarriorDog said:

Any suggestions on attaching the side edge strips to the bed sides?  How to remove the existing edge strips?  Grind gently?  I thought about just grinding off the old and using a carriage bolt with an acorn nut on the outside of the bed to attched the edge rails.  

Check closely before removing those strips. The new ones might be designed to go over the old ones.  My dad did this with his 41 Chevy. Cut, cold chiseled and ground the old ones off. In doing it, he put wrinkles in the sheet metal. When he went to put on the nice new stainless ones he found they were designed to just go over the old, creating even more work installing them.

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5 minutes ago, 1949B-1-C said:

What's your plans for the original 3/4 ton brake drums?  

I honestly do not know yet if my B1C brake drums are any good.

My only plans for my 1949 B1C rear end is to yard drive it from the field to the slab to swap the rear end.

I can let you know then if the drums are any good and maybe the brake shoes for cores if needed. Would rather see them go to someone that might need them then go to the scrap pile.

My truck has already had the b1c front axle switched to a b1b, so the bolt pattern is different, I do not want to deal with the cleavlend u-joints or the low gear ratio, or deal with finding replacement drums if needed.

PM me if you think you may want them later when I remove them, thinking cost of shipping and  a cold beer for packaging.

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The kingpins came out on BOTH sides with about 12-15 blows from the hammer.  No heat required.  Getting the disc brake conversion complete today.  The guy that's helping me.  The guy that I'm helping has been doing this stuff since before I was born.  He said he's only had one other vehicle in his life that didn't have to have the beams heated to cherry red to get them out.  Going to shoot for the new rear end install on Friday.

 

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Edited by WarriorDog
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