tattooman43 Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 Would it be better for me to rebuild my master cylinder or buy a new one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 New one or sleeve your original. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Roberts Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 If it has only a little very light rust you can get by with a kit . if you see pits , get a new one or have your existing master cylinder sleeved as Dodgeb4ya mentioned . If you decide to get it sleeved , it will be done in stainless or brass and the next time that it goes out you can just put in a kit for sure . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tattooman43 Posted February 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 Do you have to bench bleed these master cylinders? and thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 I have had bad luck with new ones off the shelf leaking from the bore. I would resleeve your original unit. Bench bleed is a good idea also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tattooman43 Posted February 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 7 hours ago, 59bisquik said: I have had bad luck with new ones off the shelf leaking from the bore. I would resleeve your original unit. Bench bleed is a good idea also. Sleeve you mean bore it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 That MC looks very similar to my '52 MC. I installed a 97 Cherokee MC behind my OE MC. I gutted the OE and extended the push rod. Now I have a dual chamber MC which I prefer. All that is needed is a spacer mount. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Roberts Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 5 hours ago, tattooman43 said: Sleeve you mean bore it out Yes , to sleeve it they would bore it out and then put a new sleeve in it to bring it back to it's original inside diameter . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 The Cherokee unit will not work with the 54+. I bought one and tried it. The shaft sticking out of the end of the bore will bind under operation due to some of the angles. The Corvette style has the same dimple style bore as the stock unit and worked well if your gonna swap. And yes, I meant to bore the stock unit out and install a sleeve. My theory was the castings were made overseas and maybe a bit porous causing the leaks with new replacement units. I went through 2 different units from different vendors and both leaked from the bore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tattooman43 Posted February 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 1 hour ago, 59bisquik said: The Cherokee unit will not work with the 54+. I bought one and tried it. The shaft sticking out of the end of the bore will bind under operation due to some of the angles. The Corvette style has the same dimple style bore as the stock unit and worked well if your gonna swap. And yes, I meant to bore the stock unit out and install a sleeve. My theory was the castings were made overseas and maybe a bit porous causing the leaks with new replacement units. I went through 2 different units from different vendors and both leaked from the bore. What's the best rebuild kit that comes with everything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radarsonwheels Posted March 14, 2017 Report Share Posted March 14, 2017 Oh man I went through this bigtime. I put a dual pot master in my 54 with a rusty hope disc kit. First the pedal stroke was not long enough- if the pushrod was adjusted long enough to stop then it wouldn't return far enough to bleed line pressure back to the master- after a few soft stops the brakes would lock and I'd have to bleed the pressure at the wheel. 'No problem' I thought- I'll just weld an extension on the m/c side of my brake pedal- lengthening that side of the 'seesaw' would make a longer throw. Then the angle was wrong since the master was no longer in line with the now lower pushrod. 'No problem' I thought, I'll just make an angled shim to align the m/c bore axis with the new pushrod swing. This sort of worked except for two things- first now the pedal kind of sits on the floor and you have to pick it up with your toe before standing on it into it's rainbow into the floor, and second I was never able to find a good MC bore. I went smaller until most of the pedal travel is used and you still have to stand on it to slowly stop- there's no bite and no more travel available before it's almost floored. I just got done collecting parts to do a 1" bore master with a dual 8" booster on the firewall with a regular swinging pedal. I'm going to paint it black and use my original pedal pad. Hopefully it will stop nicely and the power will make it an easy (not touchy) pedal so I don't stress my firewall by standing on the brakes. good luck with yours! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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