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New Guy w/ a '46 Dodge Pick Up


M.Klapp

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Hey Guys,

Just inherited a 1946 Dodge Pick Up from my dad. Still need to get it home, but in the mean time I'm lurking, looking and learning as much as I can.

Pretty sure I'm going to keep the FH6 for now, and we'll add couple carbs, maybe a fancy head and some headers. I'd like to do a IFS, but we'll see how the funds end up. I'd really like to get it a bit lower, maybe bags, maybe static, we'll see. Found a bunch on dropping the front, but nothing on the rear, do most guys just flip the axel, or go whole hog on a 4-link?

Open to any advice, suggestions or thoughts anyone may have.  

Thanks,
M

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I don't mind giving you my opinion,but you will probably mind hearing it.

 

My opinion is "if you want a low-slung blvd cruiser buy a new buzz-bomb and be done with it."

I personally don't see a thing wrong with your truck,and my philosophy is "If it ain't broke,don't fix it". Rebuild what you have and enjoy driving it as the "unique-in -this-time" vehicle that it is,or dump tens of thousand it it to have a trendy truck like everybody else has.

Seems like a easy choice to make to me.

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Nice truck. It has some add-ons but looks like it is not to far from stock and they are pretty kool stock.

You may find you will enjoy it more and not need the IFS if you include a set of radial tires in your plans, It improves the ride immensely. Tune it up and get used to shifting the trans and I bet you will be happy. another thing to plan is to check your compression and vacuum once you get it home and then you can decide what to do if anything to the motor.

I have a 47 WC, Good Luck

 

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Beautiful truck. Try it as it is first, maybe add radials as suggested. You might find it puts a stupid grin on your face.

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1 hour ago, 1949 Goat said:

Beautiful truck. Try it as it is first, maybe add radials as suggested. You might find it puts a stupid grin on your face.

You might also discover you will spend more time grinning while driving it than you would growling while trying to get mail order or junk yard parts from one manufacturer "play nice" with mail order or junk yard parts from another manufacturer,as well as you will have a lot more money and time to enjoy driving it.

Almost nobody new to the old car hobby finishes building a "modified to be cool and modern" old car or truck because in the year to several years it takes to completely rebuild and modify it,they lose interest and sell it. If they are lucky it is still mostly together and they can get a decent price for it. If it is pulled apart and has boxes of parts scattered all over,it usually ends up going to the crusher because nobody else wants it.

Sometimes things happen like loss of job,illness in the family,someone is injured or sick and out of work,you lose your storage space or even your house for some other reason like moving for a new job,etc,etc,etc. Any or all of these things can result in you never again seeing the truck in one piece,never mind being able to drive it.

MY recommendation,and worth ever penny you pay for it,is to get this truck running and driving safely,and THEN buy something else to modify in any way you want. You will have this one to drive and enjoy while the other one is being modified,and that may even inspire you to finish up the project truck.

A "beater" daily driver,and your truck is FAR from being a beater, that you can drive right now beats the HELL out of a trophy-winning show truck 8 years from now.

Don't take my word for it,ask anyone who has been doing this for a while.

 

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Mine is a '53 B4B so not sure of the differences. On the rear front mount move the spring hanger up approximately 4 1/2" and on the rear mount use a shorter jeep shackle and flip it. You will have to relieve the lower edge of the bed in places to clear parts of the suspension. Also remove the second to the shortest leaf in the spring pack and you may have to c notch the frame as that will lower the rear about 5 1/2". Note: This information is intended for entertainment purposes only as actual application of it may incur the scorn of those with stock suspension or some members running 6 volt only.

image.jpeg

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I took my bone stock truck removed leaf springs from the front and the rear swapped  the bias ply tyre for radials and enjoy driving it , I have lots of projects that I have decided to make into full custom hot rods but never seem to find the time or the funds to get them finished , All I did was lower the stance and now we enjoy driving the truck whenever we want and occasionally i look at my hot rods that I have yet to finish and wonder what was I thinking , so do whatever you want but ultimately it's all about enjoying your ride . 

IMG_1922.JPG

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Hey Guys,

First, apologies for not replying sooner.  Second, WOW! Some really great feedback, thank you.

 

On 2/1/2017 at 8:33 PM, knuckleharley said:

I don't mind giving you my opinion,but you will probably mind hearing it.

 

My opinion is "if you want a low-slung blvd cruiser buy a new buzz-bomb and be done with it."

I personally don't see a thing wrong with your truck,and my philosophy is "If it ain't broke,don't fix it". Rebuild what you have and enjoy driving it as the "unique-in -this-time" vehicle that it is,or dump tens of thousand it it to have a trendy truck like everybody else has.

Seems like a easy choice to make to me.

I'm alway open to opinions, and I get where you're coming from, but I would like to see it a little lower.

On 2/1/2017 at 11:30 PM, Veemoney said:

Nice truck. It has some add-ons but looks like it is not to far from stock and they are pretty kool stock.

You may find you will enjoy it more and not need the IFS if you include a set of radial tires in your plans, It improves the ride immensely. Tune it up and get used to shifting the trans and I bet you will be happy. another thing to plan is to check your compression and vacuum once you get it home and then you can decide what to do if anything to the motor.

I have a 47 WC, Good Luck

 

I've also been looking at some of the drop axles out there, and def plan on upgrading the tires.  Likely will need some new s wheels too, these don't appear to be stock, but I could be wrong.  Haven't taken a real close look yet.

On 2/2/2017 at 8:16 AM, 1949 Goat said:

Beautiful truck. Try it as it is first, maybe add radials as suggested. You might find it puts a stupid grin on your face.

I intent to.  Would like to swap to a 12v and a newer style distributor and coil.  And, I always have a stupid grin on my face just looking at it.  Reminds me of my dad.

On 2/2/2017 at 9:33 AM, knuckleharley said:

You might also discover you will spend more time grinning while driving it than you would growling while trying to get mail order or junk yard parts from one manufacturer "play nice" with mail order or junk yard parts from another manufacturer,as well as you will have a lot more money and time to enjoy driving it.

Almost nobody new to the old car hobby finishes building a "modified to be cool and modern" old car or truck because in the year to several years it takes to completely rebuild and modify it,they lose interest and sell it. If they are lucky it is still mostly together and they can get a decent price for it. If it is pulled apart and has boxes of parts scattered all over,it usually ends up going to the crusher because nobody else wants it.

Sometimes things happen like loss of job,illness in the family,someone is injured or sick and out of work,you lose your storage space or even your house for some other reason like moving for a new job,etc,etc,etc. Any or all of these things can result in you never again seeing the truck in one piece,never mind being able to drive it.

MY recommendation,and worth ever penny you pay for it,is to get this truck running and driving safely,and THEN buy something else to modify in any way you want. You will have this one to drive and enjoy while the other one is being modified,and that may even inspire you to finish up the project truck.

A "beater" daily driver,and your truck is FAR from being a beater, that you can drive right now beats the HELL out of a trophy-winning show truck 8 years from now.

Don't take my word for it,ask anyone who has been doing this for a while.

 

Oh, I'm aware.  I've had car projects since I could drive, but that's how it goes.  And, I plan to take baby steps; 1. Get it running 2. Get it driving 3. Start modifying (but semi period correct).

On 2/2/2017 at 10:19 AM, 48Windsor said:

Wow, Nice truck! Great patina!

Tom B

Thanks, I'm intending to keep the exterior pretty much as it.

On 2/2/2017 at 10:44 AM, The Oil Soup said:

Mine is a '53 B4B so not sure of the differences. On the rear front mount move the spring hanger up approximately 4 1/2" and on the rear mount use a shorter jeep shackle and flip it. You will have to relieve the lower edge of the bed in places to clear parts of the suspension. Also remove the second to the shortest leaf in the spring pack and you may have to c notch the frame as that will lower the rear about 5 1/2". Note: This information is intended for entertainment purposes only as actual application of it may incur the scorn of those with stock suspension or some members running 6 volt only.

image.jpeg

This is what I'm going for.  Not slammed, not aired out, just classic.  Good looking truck, and thanks for the info.

On 2/2/2017 at 11:59 AM, ggdad1951 said:

welcome!  Nice solid truck for whatever you decide to do.  Personally I like stock, but it's your truck!

Just no CRAPRODS! :P

 

Thanks, and no, no crap rods!  :D

On 2/2/2017 at 0:20 PM, 51 flathead said:

Don't drop it. It won't look right.

Can you elaborate, I'm interested in your thought process/reasons.

On 2/2/2017 at 8:38 PM, fargo52 said:

I took my bone stock truck removed leaf springs from the front and the rear swapped  the bias ply tyre for radials and enjoy driving it , I have lots of projects that I have decided to make into full custom hot rods but never seem to find the time or the funds to get them finished , All I did was lower the stance and now we enjoy driving the truck whenever we want and occasionally i look at my hot rods that I have yet to finish and wonder what was I thinking , so do whatever you want but ultimately it's all about enjoying your ride . 

IMG_1922.JPG

Yeah, I'm with you.  I really want to keep this simple.  I don't really want to do much that forces me to take it off the road for more that a week or so.  I'm liking how your truck sits, how many leafs did you remove, and did it go spongey on you?

 

 

Again, thanks for all the feedback everyone.  Really appreciate y'all taking the time.  Keep it coming.

M

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I personally don't like the look of a truck that wouldn't make it over a speed bump, but if your not going to take it that far then it will probably look fine. When I hear someone say drop I usually think of a vehicle that drags on the ground and to me these trucks don't look good that way.

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3 minutes ago, 51 flathead said:

I personally don't like the look of a truck that wouldn't make it over a speed bump, but if your not going to take it that far then it will probably look fine. When I hear someone say drop I usually think of a vehicle that drags on the ground and to me these trucks don't look good that way.

Oh no, I've got enough cars like that.  No need to make the truck 100% useless.  I just like the look of a slightly tucked tire, nothing silly.

M

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22 hours ago, M.Klapp said:

   Any advice or things I should know about tying these down to a trailer. 

If you are unfamiliar with tying vehicles down to a trailer, I would recommend U-haul as they have dedicated vehicle trailers.  The tie down system is fool proof and works well. The trailers have built in ramps.  Make sure you tie it down securely with the provided tire bonnets and stop and check it after 15 miles, or so.  If it is a little loose, tighten it and drive for another 15 miles.  It should be then be tight and just check it and trailer bearings at fuel stops.

A word about rental car trailers:  Depending on the distance it might be better to rent the trailer where you live, go get the truck and then return the trailer when you get home. One way rentals are more money for a day's use.  Compare the total charge.  The other advantage of a daily rental instead of a one way is that you are assured of having a trailer instead of hoping the trailer will be at the other end when you get it.  U-haul has a computer system that rents trailers depending on the vehicle being trailered.  

The last time I used them was to get a trailer to bring back a '37 Chevy that was 1,300 miles away.  I did not want to pull my empty car trailer that far so I rented a U-haul one way online.  When I got there, they did not have a trailer on site as they "guaranteed" they would and could not find a '37 Chevy in their computer data base so they could not determine which trailer I needed.  They could not comprehend a rolling body with no engine, interior, etc., and were more concerned about weight.  You can avoid all of that by renting at home.  

Rental companies can be picky about tow vehicles, as well.  Make sure your tow vehicle is big enough for the job.  I would not try to tow an old truck on a trailer with a Prius or a mini truck. A full sized 1/2 ton would be my minimum.  Another reason to rent at home and pull an empty trailer to your new treasure.   U-haul has an inertia brake system so don't worry if your tow vehicle is not set up for brakes.  The inertia brake sytem trailer will be a flat 4 trailer plug.  If your tow vehicle has something different, take care of that with the appropriate adapter before you leave.  

Good luck and stay out of fast food restaurant drive through lanes.

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40 minutes ago, lonejacklarry said:

. A full sized 1/2 ton would be my minimum.  Another reason to rent at home and pull an empty trailer to your new treasure.   U-haul has an inertia brake system so don't worry if your tow vehicle is not set up for brakes.  The inertia brake sytem trailer will be a flat 4 trailer plug.  If your tow vehicle has something different, take care of that with the appropriate adapter before you leave.  

Good luck and stay out of fast food restaurant drive through lanes.

I believe a half-ton full-sized truck is now the minimum for U-Haul. Years ago you could use a full-sized American car,but there are no full-sized American cars anymore.

The brakes on the uhaul trailers are hydraulic surge brakes. When you hit the brakes on your car the braking force causes the trailer brakes to engage.

If you don't have a trailer wiring plug on your car or truck,don't worry about it.  U-Haul will sell you new taillight bulbs with wires that stick out from them to plug the trailer brake and running lights into. Lots cheaper than buying a plug and having U-Haul wire it to your car,but if you can get the U-Haul dealer to install it for you. I have no idea what they charge and some U-Haul dealers only do it as a sideline and don't have mechanics,so it's best to call ahead first.

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6 hours ago, lonejacklarry said:

If you are unfamiliar with tying vehicles down to a trailer, I would recommend U-haul as they have dedicated vehicle trailers.  The tie down system is fool proof and works well. The trailers have built in ramps.  Make sure you tie it down securely with the provided tire bonnets and stop and check it after 15 miles, or so.  If it is a little loose, tighten it and drive for another 15 miles.  It should be then be tight and just check it and trailer bearings at fuel stops.

A word about rental car trailers:  Depending on the distance it might be better to rent the trailer where you live, go get the truck and then return the trailer when you get home. One way rentals are more money for a day's use.  Compare the total charge.  The other advantage of a daily rental instead of a one way is that you are assured of having a trailer instead of hoping the trailer will be at the other end when you get it.  U-haul has a computer system that rents trailers depending on the vehicle being trailered.  

The last time I used them was to get a trailer to bring back a '37 Chevy that was 1,300 miles away.  I did not want to pull my empty car trailer that far so I rented a U-haul one way online.  When I got there, they did not have a trailer on site as they "guaranteed" they would and could not find a '37 Chevy in their computer data base so they could not determine which trailer I needed.  They could not comprehend a rolling body with no engine, interior, etc., and were more concerned about weight.  You can avoid all of that by renting at home.  

Rental companies can be picky about tow vehicles, as well.  Make sure your tow vehicle is big enough for the job.  I would not try to tow an old truck on a trailer with a Prius or a mini truck. A full sized 1/2 ton would be my minimum.  Another reason to rent at home and pull an empty trailer to your new treasure.   U-haul has an inertia brake system so don't worry if your tow vehicle is not set up for brakes.  The inertia brake sytem trailer will be a flat 4 trailer plug.  If your tow vehicle has something different, take care of that with the appropriate adapter before you leave.  

Good luck and stay out of fast food restaurant drive through lanes.

 

5 hours ago, knuckleharley said:

I believe a half-ton full-sized truck is now the minimum for U-Haul. Years ago you could use a full-sized American car,but there are no full-sized American cars anymore.

The brakes on the uhaul trailers are hydraulic surge brakes. When you hit the brakes on your car the braking force causes the trailer brakes to engage.

If you don't have a trailer wiring plug on your car or truck,don't worry about it.  U-Haul will sell you new taillight bulbs with wires that stick out from them to plug the trailer brake and running lights into. Lots cheaper than buying a plug and having U-Haul wire it to your car,but if you can get the U-Haul dealer to install it for you. I have no idea what they charge and some U-Haul dealers only do it as a sideline and don't have mechanics,so it's best to call ahead first.

Thanks Guys!  

I will be using Uhaul full trailer, and will be towing with one of their box trucks (have bunch more stuff coming with the truck).

Any special places to tie these things down (save for the tire straps)?  Thinking about adding a couple more to the rear of the truck, to tie the frame to the trailer.

M

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5 minutes ago, M.Klapp said:

 

Thanks Guys!  

I will be using Uhaul full trailer, and will be towing with one of their box trucks (have bunch more stuff coming with the truck).

Any special places to tie these things down (save for the tire straps)?  Thinking about adding a couple more to the rear of the truck, to tie the frame to the trailer.

M

The tire straps are all you need. Don't tie anything to the frame because it's suspended by the springs,and  it's going to want to move as the trailer hits bumps. Let it do what it wants to do or you may be sorry.

If you want,you can get a coupe of big ratchets straps or chains and chain brakes to add "insurance" by tightening them around the rear axle and a front control arm on one end,and the trailer on the other,but with the tire straps it really isn't necessary. They really are safe as long as they aren't cut or frayed,and they are the best method to use.

Edited by knuckleharley
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1 hour ago, knuckleharley said:

The tire straps are all you need. Don't tie anything to the frame because it's suspended by the springs,and  it's going to want to move as the trailer hits bumps. Let it do what it wants to do or you may be sorry.

If you want,you can get a coupe of big ratchets straps or chains and chain brakes to add "insurance" by tightening them around the rear axle and a front control arm on one end,and the trailer on the other,but with the tire straps it really isn't necessary. They really are safe as long as they aren't cut or frayed,and they are the best method to use.

Awesome!  Thanks knuckleharley!

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Your truck looks to be in decent shape but I would be concerned about using the rear wheels/axle if the U shackles are severely worn out. They can get to the point of falling out of the frame mount. 

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1 hour ago, Young Ed said:

Your truck looks to be in decent shape but I would be concerned about using the rear wheels/axle if the U shackles are severely worn out. They can get to the point of falling out of the frame mount. 

That's good to know, I'll double check em all to be sure.

M

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