Steve C Posted January 28, 2017 Report Share Posted January 28, 2017 Wiring my B1B and have a question- why are there two connectors between the brake light switch and the brake light? It is a single line between the two according to the shop manual. any help is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted January 28, 2017 Report Share Posted January 28, 2017 If I understand the question correctly, the two connections are there I think for two reasons. One reason is to make the entire wiring harness modular, separating the engine compartment from the rest of the chassis. This allows the chassis wiring harness to vary in length along with the wheelbase options. Another reason is to break the connection of the lamp assembly from the chassis harness to allow for repair to a damaged lamp or to add the optional lamp on the right 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve C Posted January 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2017 JB, thank you, appreciate the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve C Posted May 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2017 I haven't posted for quite a while, have rewired, installed points plugs condenser coil,rebuilt carb, cleaned gunk etc and have tried to start the truck with no luck. Got a compression tester and we're showing no more than 65# in three cylinders and zero in the remaining cylinders..so, I pulled the head and found a valve sticking open. The reason the valve is remaining open is that the lifter is stuck ( it does move horizontally, but not vertically and has a lot of resistance, the motor turns by hand so I don't think the lifter is hung up on the camshaft. What would cause the lifter to be stuck ? Could it have somehow gotten out of round? thanks for any help/advice you guys have, SteveC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted May 30, 2017 Report Share Posted May 30, 2017 Usually it's the valves that get stuck in the guides. I've never heard of a tappet getting stuck in it's bore. You say it moves horizontally... do you mean that you can spin it? That would indicate that it's not stuck in the bore. Maybe it's just sticky enough that it won't drop under it's own weight. Try gently tapping on the top of the valve, but be careful not to hit the outer part of the valve as that could potentially bend it. You could also spray down the valve stem with some penetrating oil first to get some lube in there when you get it freed up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 30, 2017 Report Share Posted May 30, 2017 odds of getting out of round on that lifter is very very slim...as stated above my Merle, just lube it up and work it albeit gently as more than not it is just a corrosion ring that is preventing its return due to long time setting and moisture issues. At worse removal of the valves now that the head is off would be in you best interest and allow for very close inspection of the valve face, seat and play in the guide. Anyway...with the head off I recommend removal of the valves and good clean up, at minimum a hand lapping of the valves followed by lash adjustments..you should be good to go and only have to do this head removal but once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted May 30, 2017 Report Share Posted May 30, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve C Posted May 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 Thank you guys for the advice, some slight tapping and pb blaster solved the problem, also taking your device on valve cleanup. SteveC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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