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for priming the pump, I have pressurized the gas tank. Not alot if you have good lungs you can blow into it. Or I have filled the carb float and poured some gas in the carb to get it started, and after a couple of seconds of running the gas appears in the glass bowl.

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1 hour ago, bach4660 said:

for priming the pump, I have pressurized the gas tank. Not alot if you have good lungs you can blow into it. Or I have filled the carb float and poured some gas in the carb to get it started, and after a couple of seconds of running the gas appears in the glass bowl.

bach 4660,I already filled the carb bowl but the engine functioned and rapidly stopped.I am wanting now to fill the hose that goes from the pump to the carb.Is it necessary to fill inside where the valves are too?Thanks.

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then

1 hour ago, Fernando Mendes said:

bach 4660,I already filled the carb bowl but the engine functioned and rapidly stopped.I am wanting now to fill the hose that goes from the pump to the carb.Is it necessary to fill inside where the valves are too?Thanks.

then wrap a rag around your air hose (or even a bicycle tire pump) and blow a bit of air into the gas tank (through the filler neck) this will push the gas down to the pump. If you have a helper you can have them crank it  a  couple of times when you are giving it some air. this will prime the pump

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bach4660,what do you think about these other procedures to easy the prime?

1)Fill to full the fuel tank and/or

2)Put another hose with another can sending fuel from top of the right fender(more height than the pump).

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for priming the pump, I have pressurized the gas tank. Not alot if you have good lungs you can blow into it. Or I have filled the carb float and poured some gas in the carb to get it started, and after a couple of seconds of running the gas appears in the glass bowl.

Hello bach 4660.I found this bugle to prime the pump through the filler neck.

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On 11/03/2017 at 6:55 PM, bach4660 said:

for priming the pump, I have pressurized the gas tank. Not alot if you have good lungs you can blow into it. Or I have filled the carb float and poured some gas in the carb to get it started, and after a couple of seconds of running the gas appears in the glass bowl.

Ok bach 4660.Thanks.When I blew into the tank the gasoline arrived to the carburetor,but after the engine functioned it rapidly stopped.I think I will have to disassemble the pump again.DSCN3912.JPG.40497af331c8c6d2060f63154c1770e3.JPG

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Hello bach4660.Today I withdrew the pump again.It was all ok.I tested it in my hands and it pumped very good.Its problem is because the camshaft is not in good shape.I will compensate this worn welding bronze in the end of the lever.The prior lever was welded with bronze.I think I will have to put more bronze than the prior was.The valves,lever and diaphragm are original type and new.Thanks.

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I wonder how many hours it takes to install another cam?

I honestly do not know what would be involved with the engine installed.

I do not think I would trust that repair, unless it was a trailer queen. Otherwise while driving and every hickup or cough I would be thinking about that fuel pump.

Pretty sure I would wake up in sweats in the middle of the night, thinking about it.

Maybe a electric fuel pump until is a better time to change the cam.

Seems like a flat cam is a flat cam and adding build-up to the lever, does not change a flat cam.

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YES Los_Control ,I spent three months restoring my WWII jeep engine,including the camshaft change,camshaft gear,crankshaft gear,timing chain and sleeves.I bought the camshaft from Yuma-Arizona.I agree totally with you and I am happy with your input.I began to think now to buy an electric fuel pump.Can you or other member of this forum send me the characteristics of this electric fuel pump?Thanks very much.

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Yesterday I welded bronze in the end of its lever.Now it is already pumping the gasoline.I still have to solve a leak problem under the pump.I did two cork gaskets and did not stop the leak.DSCN3956.JPG.f4b61ce36528baedc1ab63253e6ac7e4.JPG

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Now I am having difficulties with a correct gasket to use here and stop the leakage.First I used cork and now I put special paper gasket plus gasket glue and always leaking.I talked with a mechanic and he said that the actual cork is selling is poor quality.The question is cork or special paper gasket?

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Hello all. Yesterday I cut a new piece of rubber and first I tested it and a cork gasket inside the gasoline to see if they will increase your measures.Both increased their measures.I am speaking about its bowl chamber gasket.I ask to me:why the diaphragm rubber?(see post nr 33).Why not rubber?Then I put rubber without glue yesterday 0600PM and left it.Today I will re-connect the hoses and function the engine.I did not have a pic but is the same diameter of the prior special paper. 

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Today 0815AM I returned to re-connect the hoses and functioned the engine and the chamber bowl gasket did not leak with the rubber.I am always observing,but the gasket pump-block special paper continues leaking oil and I put black silicone high temperature in it.I think now I am tranquil.

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Yesterday I red about silicone apply and learned more easy things that I did not know.1)Clean the surfaces with ALCOHOL or ACETONE.Do not use kerosene or gasoline.2)Thread the beak in the silicone tube and cut its end with an angle of 45 degrees.3)Tighten manually the screws.4)After 2 hours tighten finally the screws.5)After use the silicone maintain the beak in the tube and leave a few quantity of silicone above the beak to form a cover.To re-use withdraw the cover.6)After opened the tube use only until 2 weeks.

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Hello all.Today I functioned the engine and it is without leakage now.First I cleaned the block surface and pump too with alcohol, did another gasket(1,6mm) with special paper and used another silicone.Tomorrow I will do a road test.Thanks.Regards.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi guys.I had a problem with my fuel pump these months ago,since march.It was not pumping well.Today I changed the inlet rubber valve gasket to another paper gasket and it began to pump well.Regards.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 12/02/2017 at 11:26 PM, greg g said:

Not completely familiar with that carb, but if it is similar to the carter it should have a vacuum path from the intakemwnifoldthrough gasket to the base of the carb.  That vacuum signal functions to control the step up /power jet.  This jet provides for extra fuel after the initial squirt from the accelerator pump. High vacuum at cruise and idle keeps the valve closed against spring pressure, no or low vacuum lets it stay open. Your carb is mounted off center, plus you have mismatched gaskets, one or both of those items could be causing a total or partial blocking of the vacuum signal, leaving you power jet open all the time.  I have seen a car (54 Plymouth station wagon with OD) go from 9 or 10 miles per gallon to 17 to 19 mpg, by assuring this valve and vacuum signal are operating correctly.

 

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  • 1 month later...

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