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Outer Rear Axle Bearing Seat Issue


etzmolch

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I wantetd to replace the outer rear axle bearings as well as the seals. Unfortunately the outer ring on the right side came out with out  pulling force,  I meassuared the seat and there is approx. 0.02" of play between outer bering ring and the seat. Does anybody know how I can repair the seat or had somebody the same issue an can give me some advice?

 

Thanks in advance!

Andre

Edited by etzmolch
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Andre, I dunno if this may help but quite a few yrs ago I had a problem when the outer bearing race somehow cracked and spun in the axle housing, machining the housing a few thou larger......at this time I lived in Sydney, Oz's largest city and was able to take the new bearing race to a specialised engineering shop that metal sprayed bearings and other surfaces..........they were able to spray the new outer race's outer surface and build it up to the extent that it was a nice press fit and allowed me to replace the bearing.......it lasted another 20yrs or so.........this rear axle was from a 1962 Oz Chrysler Royal which were mechanically based on the 1955/56 Plymouth, the rear axle was the same tapered axle arrangement as your 1950 Dodge so it maybe worth checking around to see if this metal spraying process is available to you.............regards, Andy Douglas      

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You might also consider using some red lock tite bearing mount and thread locker. Put a film inside the axle bore and some on the outside of the outer race and assemble it. The end play is pretty tight, so it should grab and hold.

I have also seen people make raised areas inside a bore like this to take up clearance. Mind you this is not something I have done, only seen it in some things Ive taken apart over the years.

What folks do is take a chisel or punch and whack the bore in a bunch of spots symmetrical to the bore to make raised dimples or grooves, and that takes up the clearance as well. I might consider using red lock tight as well. It should hold. If you need to get apart you would need to heat with a propane torch to soften the lock tight, and then yank it apart.

Andy's suggestion is the best though.

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I have seen a number of similar case where a spun bearing had caused a tad of wear but NOT to excess, repaired by center punching around the circumference of the housing...these dimples will raise the surface a bit.  This procedure can allow the bearing shell to be pressed back in place and along with the added suggestion of the RED locking adhesive and may well do the trick for your problem.  Granted this is not a 'high end' repair but as we all know these housings can be had for little money and will allow you to continue enjoying your car till you find a suitable replacement.

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Thanks for the replies.

I will try to find somebody around me who can build up the seat by metal spraying or at least  by welding and milling back to the diameter necessary. If I have no luck I will try the "punching method" with some "bearing glue" until I find a replacement axle.

@Plymouthy Adamsb.t.w. I found replacement rear drums from a Jeep Cheerokee which fit to the rear axle with some work to the drums and also with new studs which I did  myself on a lathe. The goal was, that the drums are available here in Germany so I ordered them, took some messurements and found out these drums are good to go. Now I ended up with the problem as described above (Solved one and digged up the next..., but I am almost at the end with restauration... rear axle was the last piece I didn't touch so far).

Regards Andre

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Andre, what I did was to get the NEW bearing race metal sprayed, conversely you could get the axle housing sprayed but it was much easier to take the bearing race to the shop than the whole rear end......lol.....but as Plymouthy and Dartgame have suggested using a centre punch and/or a bearing lock compound may also work................lol.......ain't old cars fun?.........lol..............andyd  

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