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pflaming

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I just made a mental break through in the rewiring project on my 54 Pymouth. I am installing an EZ Wiring kit. Question: In the speedometer face are two 'lights'. one green (Hi Beam?) the other red (turn signal). Evidently the red one works for both left and right turns indication. Am I correct on those? Question #2: Can those color caps be replaced? One of mine is gone, the other one is marginal at best.

 

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2 hours ago, pflaming said:

I just made a mental break through in the rewiring project on my 54 Pymouth. I am installing an EZ Wiring kit. Question: In the speedometer face are two 'lights'. one green (Hi Beam?) the other red (turn signal). Evidently the red one works for both left and right turns indication. Am I correct on those? Question #2: Can those color caps be replaced? One of mine is gone, the other one is marginal at best.

 

Paul, I think the green is the turn indicator and the red is high beam. Others probably know for sure.

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6 minutes ago, William Davey said:

Paul, I think the green is the turn indicator and the red is high beam. Others probably know for sure.

I believe that is correct. Paul don't you have 2-3 of these clusters?

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6 minutes ago, William Davey said:

Paul, I think the green is the turn indicator and the red is high beam. Others probably know for sure.

In my 2 1950 Plymouths that is the correct info. Is 54 different? I doubt it, but not sure.

DJ

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Ed, Yes I do and an extra set of gauges as well. But only one has any resemblance of color. I thought the two lights were for left and right but then I could not find a high beam location. With my EZ Kit, I have wiring for L and R bulbs, but then I need to find a place for high beam. Will study that some, drilling a hole and getting a bulb is no big thing. 

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21 hours ago, pflaming said:

Ed, Yes I do and an extra set of gauges as well. But only one has any resemblance of color. I thought the two lights were for left and right but then I could not find a high beam location. With my EZ Kit, I have wiring for L and R bulbs, but then I need to find a place for high beam. Will study that some, drilling a hole and getting a bulb is no big thing. 

or you could just splice L and R together. 

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"just splice L and R together.", thanks Ed, that is what I will do and I will color the bulbs for now. I do like the color caps also, they may out last the magic marker color. I may have the lights section of the car competed tomorrow.

Some personal tips of he EZ Kit.. If I did another, which is unlikely, I would learn the 'letter' terminology they use. IND is indicator, LL is left low, etc. once you know and identifiy that, then the task becomes workable. So I would lay that kit out on a ping pong table and label ever wire on all the ends. Reading that small print is not an easy task. Then I would connect all switches on the table and all light fixtures as well. If the wire is too long you can trim to fit later.  Additionally by doing this, one can solder all connections and that is a BIG plus. 

 

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  • 9 months later...

I have a 1953 B3.i seen you used ezwire kit.what is this?a complete vehicle harness is what I need. What kit would I order ? I am keeping all mostly stock. Since the truck is so basic-isn't it cheaper to just wire with wire spools .thanks in advance.

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7 hours ago, bergy said:

I have a 1953 B3.i seen you used ezwire kit.what is this?a complete vehicle harness is what I need. What kit would I order ? I am keeping all mostly stock. Since the truck is so basic-isn't it cheaper to just wire with wire spools .thanks in advance.

Yes it is a lot cheaper . Just run one replacement wire at a time and you won't get them mixed up . Be sure to use wire that is heavy enough , some of the wires must be heavier than others  . The downside is that your homemade wire harness probably won't look as nice as the mail - order harness . 

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If you really wanted left and right indicators on the dash, it really wouldn't be that difficult. Only reason not to is if you want the car correct for that year, otherwise there are lots of electronics companies that sell panel lamps that could be used for separate indicators. 

https://www.amazon.com/Alpinetech-Metal-Signal-Indicator-Pilot/dp/B01JFA9W7M/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1506627487&sr=1-2&keywords=6%2Bvolt%2Bpanel%2Blamp&th=1

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While on the wiring subject.....I'm in the process of a complete rewire/redesign of my wiring on my 49 Desoto.  I have been scouting around junkyards looking for pieces that I can transplant into my ride. I find that the later Fords have a great fuse/relay box for transplants. I pulled one from a 2006-2010 Explorer. The Ford design is in made of sections that snap together giving you the ability to mix and match as to customize the box to your needs .... say you wanted more 5 prong relays, but had a section with mini relays that you weren't using. Just pull out the mini relay section, go to the junkyard find most any modern Ford with a section for 5 prong relays to swap back in. They also have diodes, and breaker sections that can be swapped in. Another benefit of the Explorer box is that there are lots of fuse circuits to accommodate just about anything you might need. 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Pflaming

 I have a 53 truck. I guess there categories B4. , which ez kit. Did you get? You had sent me something before so I thank you for that.

   I was reading a lot of the fellows used ez wires kit. How many circuits do I need?

  Thanks in advance 

      Berry 

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EZ kit, the simplist kit they have. I used EZ on my suburban.   When you connect to the bolt stubs, put a lock washer on every stub, no exceptions or the vehicle vibration will work them loose. Don Coatney taught me that.

 

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  • 2 months later...

Pflaming

  I’ve read your many posts and really advanced using your ideas. I’ve written earlier about the ez wire kits- well I’ve found them but most were for 12 volts- I’m still sticken with the 6 volt for now did not seem a specific kit for 6 volts- beings we need heavier wire for 6 volts what’s the deal on what you are using. Thanks in advance

Edited by bergy
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I went 12 volts. I want to have outputs for modern devices.  The least expensive EZ kit has twice as many wires than what I need. It would be a lot easier to get a good patient friend and pull and replace the harness a wire at a time. With the steering wheel removed and the post lowered, is easy to disconnect the top screws of the dash and pivot it down. Then all the dash wires are essentially laying in your lap and easy to work. 

 

At at least that is what I did, got tired of working on my back! 

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