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1951 b3 truck


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I have recently purchased a 1951 B3 pickup and everything seems in good shape except  for the front cab mounts they are completely rusted out of the cab body , I realize that I have to fabricate new ones since non are reproduced ,so i was wondering if I can get pictures from someone so I can repair my truck?

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sorry for the delay, last night was "date night" with my bride :D

1-3 is the drivers side 4&5 pass side

Don, don't look my tape is rusty :D

cab mount.jpgcab mount (1).jpgcab mount (2).jpgcab mount (3).jpgcab mount (4).jpg

 

is this what ya need?

 

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2 minutes ago, ssnowden said:

Does rolling the cab on the firewall hurt anything? I need to coat mine underneath. 

if you set it on the pillars and then gently tip, it'll set on the front drip rail. I think yours is further along than mine.... I would put down cardboard or old blankets

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I laid my cab on it's side to work on the bottom. I had it sitting on 12x12 wood blocks, which were on furniture dollies. I got one block under a door sill and rocked the cab over so that I could set the top of the door drip rail on another block/dolly. I could even step through the windshield opening to access the inside while it was like this.

Merle

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for those that had the need or desire to put a body on it's side for access....the best thing to have on hand is a couple old mattresses for this purpose...last unibody I did this way was not that long back....and as there was no suspension front or rear when  I picked it up I transported it on four old tire carcasses....the trip home was also on a trialer with this mattress as a shipping pad....

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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I've had them on their nose and on their backs as well.  On their nose, I usually sit them on 4 x 6 blocks of wood to get them off the floor a bit, On their back they sit cradled in a cart and that allows me to get to the back side of the dash panel for paint. and minimizes the area that would require overhead spraying and has great access to the front of the firewall and interior roof panels.  Once those are covered, stand back up for the rest of the cab.

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6 hours ago, Dave72dt said:

I've had them on their nose and on their backs as well.  On their nose, I usually sit them on 4 x 6 blocks of wood to get them off the floor a bit, On their back they sit cradled in a cart and that allows me to get to the back side of the dash panel for paint. and minimizes the area that would require overhead spraying and has great access to the front of the firewall and interior roof panels.  Once those are covered, stand back up for the rest of the cab.

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hmmm...that looks vaguely familiar!

 

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I've got more that should be "vaguely familiar".  My floor doesn't look anything like your floor.  Bottoms of the  A pillar would but I don't have any pictures of mine.  What's interesting is the small triangle that's bent up at the upper end of the original pieces, one tucked in, the other on the outside - obviously factory, and obviously not installed the same way.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Was wondering how folks have dealt with rusted out "stiffeners" on the outside edge of cab floors. The ones on my '53 B3B are rusted through in several spots. I would love to remove them and install new metal, but can't figure out how to fabricate new ones. The front mount areas on both sides is totally rusted away on my truck. I bought a replacement cab floor from C2C Fabrication, but it didn't come with any "stiffeners." Just received a new Lincoln MIG welder for my birthday, so I'm almost ready to go with this project.

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It's been so long since I did my floor I don't remember exactly the sizes I used.  From A pillar to B pillar I used a section of 1 by 2 or 3 rectangular tubing trimmed on the ends to fit and I think I put a plate of 1/8 where the front mounts went.  My floor is made of 16 gauge material with additional rectangular tubing for structural support.  It does NOT look like the factory floor nor was it intended to but the " stiffeners" look like the originals from the outside.  You have to look under the truck to tell the difference.

If the factory was a C channel style, you can cut a side off the rectangular or split it lengthwise or have a machine shop or someone with a metal brake bend you up a section and you trim to fit.  I don't have a brake so that's what I do.  Make patterns, do accurate dimensions, have them  bend and do the final trim myself.

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