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Electronic ignition


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On ‎2016‎-‎08‎-‎28 at 11:45 AM, cavisco1 said:

Hi Don,

 

Good to hear from you! Yes, a forum search will sometimes yield good results, but it really wasn't difficult at all to simply try and answer the fellow's original question. It probably would also have been easy to point to some relevant search results and then remind the original poster of the power of search. I guess it just boils down to how we were raised as to the things we consider rude, but I've noticed a general decline in civility both online and in society in general. We are both probably too old to change, so I wish you well.

 

Now back on topic; What is your preferred ignition? I know some folks prefer sticking with 6v and points. For some, part of the charm of an older vehicle is keeping the Kettering ignition in top shape.

 

Scott. 

Thanx for this post, not to sidetrack this thread,, but all too often, the go and "search" is pontificated by a few members.

Searching as you mention at times produces very good info, and sometimes it does not.

The new format displays a ? mark, is this not a question??????????? worthy of an answer if possible..............

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12 hours ago, Dennis46PU said:

And what happens if you don't use resistor wires and plugs?  Just so we all know...

I believe there have been cases where the modules have failed due to using solid core plug wires.

I have just finished a Petronix conversion on my truck. I found another distributor on ebay for a very reasonable price and used it for the conversion. I now have my original with points as a backup. I also changed the plug wires with Petronix suppression wires. I don't have any good test miles on it yet, but I don't expect any issues.

 

Merle

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14 hours ago, Dennis46PU said:

And what happens if you don't use resistor wires and plugs?  Just so we all know...

The RFI EMI emitted can confuse the electronic ignition control circuitry causing false triggering or component failure. Solid core wires also allow excessive high voltage ringing (High Voltage Spikes) in the coil secondary circuit which are reflected back into the coil primary circuit, damaging the solid state switching circuit that replaces the points. If I remember correctly, one of our forum members recently killed a Mopar electronic ignition box with solid core wires.

 

Scott.

Edited by cavisco1
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2 hours ago, cavisco1 said:

The RFI EMI emitted can confuse the electronic ignition control circuitry causing false triggering or component failure. Solid core wires also allow excessive high voltage ringing (High Voltage Spikes) in the coil secondary circuit which are reflected back into the coil primary circuit, damaging the solid state switching circuit that replaces the points. If I remember correctly, one of our forum members recently killed a Mopar electronic ignition box with solid core wires.

 

Scott.

Exactly, ask me ow I know this......LOL

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On ‎8‎/‎31‎/‎2016 at 9:05 PM, Dennis46PU said:

And what happens if you don't use resistor wires and plugs?  Just so we all know...

Non supression wires and plugs set up a magnetic field and since Pertronix and others use a magnetic impulse for firing, false triggers can be created causing a very poor running engine.

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On 8/31/2016 at 10:04 PM, deathbound said:

I'm using Langdon's GM mini HEI unit and very happy with it. I don't like the way it looks, so may convert my original dizzy with the Pertronix kit I have.

Really?  Don't like the looks?  Want to sell it?

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Another way to electronic ignition is with a Mopar /6 distributor conversion.

Not that difficult, you can use it in conjunction with a GM HEI, if you don't like the Mopar style module.

It takes a bit of effort, but is certainly not that difficult....

20151020_210823_resized.jpg

20151020_210845_resized.jpg

20151023_121911_resized.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just a follow up.  I went ahead with the Pertronix module for now.  A couple things I don't like about this distributor are the vacuum advance and the way the rotor fits.  Seems like it is expensive to either replace or rebuild the vacuum advance, maybe I'm not looking in the right place.  I did a search on the rotor sloppy fit problem, found several postings on the issue but no results to a satisfying solution that I could see.  I'll try the Pertronix module and later if I'm not satisfied with the performance I might swap it out for the Langdon HEI with round coil.

Something I noticed after I got the module in was how far off the timing was.  I guess my points were that bad, don't know.  Had a tough time keeping it running until I got timing set in the correct location.  After it's warmed up, throttle response is better than it's ever been.  

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Sounds like the distributor may have a lot of looseness in the shaft bearings. Too late to check closely now but with the dist. cap off, try moving the whole shaft side to side and look for movement. The points gap can change with wear a little or a lot depending of the rpm changing dwell and timing, a lot due to the pressure the points put on the shaft as it rotates over the high/low parts of the cam. Pertronix and any other electronic types are less affected by this- as there is no pressure against the cam to move the shaft and not usually as affected by the gap change if any as they can tolerate the air gap change if not excessive.

May be why it runs smoother plus the hotter spark.?  I Do want to restart the spark- vs. points/electronic ign. controversies. ;)

DJ

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If your converting to 12 volt another option is Crane Cams optical system. It's the old Allison optical ignition systems which they bought a few years ago. I have used them on two flatheads with zero problems and not adjustments ever. One unit was in the car for over 15 years and still works. 

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I suggest you source a new rotor. It should fit snugly with no movement other than what is in the shaft. One I bought did not and one did. Some repro stuff is just not up to OEM snuff....but that is nothing new.....I have run into that with ignition parts on lots of later vehicles.

With the Pertronix set up I have found it is best to make very small adjustments to the timing in order to find the optimum setting.

Jeff

 

 

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I put the dwell meter away after I put the Pertronix in, but I may get it out just for the fun of it to see where it's at now.  Timing, I adjusted it for where it runs best which is close to what specs call for from what I recall in the fsm.  Rotors, i've tried several from local parts houses.  None of them fit to satisfy me.  So if somebody has the magical brand name and number for a IGS distributor, please post that information as it's aggravating going down to or even online and getting the same "does not fit" part over and over.  

P15-D24, I am now 12 volt negative ground.  I lost patience trying to find stock gauges that work and weren't the cost of an arm and a leg to buy let alone the other short comings of 6 volt positive ground.  Sorry folks, it's not all original.  Some people look at it and think it is tho.

Edited by Dennis46PU
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1 hour ago, Dennis46PU said:
1 hour ago, Dennis46PU said:

 "So if somebody has the magic brand name and number for a IGS distributor, please post that information "

The magic name is Auto-Lite for the rotor and the part number is 1016B . This is for the WC 1946 Dodge truck with distributor model number IGS4203A-1  .  I find my NOS Auto-Lite parts on ebay .  

 

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