Bingster Posted July 29, 2016 Report Share Posted July 29, 2016 Anybody use Arthur Gould to rebuild a fuel or water pump? My pump 1947 Desoto $115.00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 29, 2016 Report Share Posted July 29, 2016 Have you investigated the cost of a new fuel or water pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted July 29, 2016 Report Share Posted July 29, 2016 (edited) http://p15-d24.com/index.php?app=core&module=search§ion=search&do=search&fromsearch=1 Tried to link forum search results, but it did not work. There are 5-6 results for a search of Arthur Gould on the forums. Did not know that the Rock Auto $34 Gates 42554 pump would not fit a DeSoto. What is special about the DeSoto? Edited July 29, 2016 by shel_ny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted July 29, 2016 Report Share Posted July 29, 2016 If you have the older style water pump and on the third hole that the stud comes throught the body. This is the stud that would be on the side that had the manifold he body at this location with the metl backing plate is only about 1/2 thick. On the newer style the body has changed and the body where this stud comes throught is now about 2-3 inches thick, therefore the nut can not be mounted to hold the pump on the engine block. If you have any of the old 1/2 inch thick body DO NOT and I say DO NOT throwout the body. I have checked around and Gould did not have of these bodies left in stock so you will need to have yours rebuilt. So if you have the small thickness on this area on you old WP keep it as a rebuildabe pump. The only solution is that you could pull the stud from the front of the engine block and then use the bolt that is supplied with the newer pumps. But you must use antiseize on the threads. The issue is that you might snap the stud when trying to get them out of the old block.i I ran into this same issue last month justbefor going to the National Desoto Carshow. rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Rich HArtung Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingster Posted July 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2016 I looked at an old and very long thread about water pumps here, and they mentioned Gates, and that even though it said USA it can made in China, Napa, which is the Gates pump, was hit and miss. Then one Napa rebuild didn't work right either. One guy took his new pump apart cause it overheated his engine, and saw the impeller was smaller and such as that. So the consensus was that you don't really know if a pump is made in China or not. Personally, I'd rather have a reputable rebuilder give me a pump that I know is gonna work using my core than have to remove a pump after installation. Like White Post and brake cylinders. Seems like a lot of you guys use White Post or the other place. Why not rebuild water pumps? If anybody can give me a USA-made water pump that is proven reliable, then I'm all ears, or eyes in the this case. And please note that I did a lot of research on this board! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted July 29, 2016 Report Share Posted July 29, 2016 I bought a rebuilt pump from him for my 1939 IHC pu. Couldn't find one anywhere else quick,and it was keeping me from driving the truck. No complaints other than the price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted July 29, 2016 Report Share Posted July 29, 2016 I've had a water pump rebuilt recently by Gould (Arthur has apparently passed away and his son is doing the work now). As knuckleharley wrote, no complaints other than the price. To answer Don's question in advance: The '33 and '34 pumps have a different casting and water inlet to the block, so getting a new manufacture pump is not possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted July 29, 2016 Report Share Posted July 29, 2016 I've had a water pump rebuilt recently by Gould (Arthur has apparently passed away and his son is doing the work now). As knuckleharley wrote, no complaints other than the price. To answer Don's question in advance: The '33 and '34 pumps have a different casting and water inlet to the block, so getting a new manufacture pump is not possible. Are the 33 Dodge waterpumps the same as the 33 Plymouth? Do you have a casting number for these pumps? The reason I ask is I got what was claimed to be the original engine with the car when I bought my 33 Dodge 4dr sedan,and I'd like to be able to verifiy it really is a 33 Dodge engine. Told it was worn out and that's why the guy I bought the car had been planning on putting a 318 in it,but if it's not an original 33 engine I might as well go ahead and sell it to somebody as a core that has a car it is original to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plymjim Posted July 30, 2016 Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 Do you have an Autozone store near you? They offer a water pump rebuilding service. Maybe you could have your old one redone. Sorry they won't fit your Desoto but the Gates pump being discussed here seems to be a good product although foreign made most likely. I just bought one from Parts Geek.com. Fits well, functions well but the 4 bolts holding the rear plate to the main housing are metric. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted July 30, 2016 Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 Are the 33 Dodge waterpumps the same as the 33 Plymouth? Do you have a casting number for these pumps? The reason I ask is I got what was claimed to be the original engine with the car when I bought my 33 Dodge 4dr sedan,and I'd like to be able to verifiy it really is a 33 Dodge engine. Told it was worn out and that's why the guy I bought the car had been planning on putting a 318 in it,but if it's not an original 33 engine I might as well go ahead and sell it to somebody as a core that has a car it is original to. I think the '33 Plymouth and Dodge engines are pretty much the same except a larger displacement on the Dodge. I believe that '33 is the first year this might be true. (For a while after Chrysler purchased Dodge they seemed to keep the older Dodge stuff in production and until '33 the Plymouths all shipped with four cylinder engines.) On the bottom of my spare pump there is 600797-14. The general appearance is the same as the later pumps for internal bypass but the pulley and hub are one piece and the inlet to the block is rectangular rather than the half-moon of the '35 and up pumps. If you are trying to verify the engine is correct, the first letters of the engine number stamped on the block above the generator mounting bracket should tell you that. I'd have to look up the Dodge model engineering codes but I suspect it would be something like DP or DO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted July 30, 2016 Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 I think the '33 Plymouth and Dodge engines are pretty much the same except a larger displacement on the Dodge. I believe that '33 is the first year this might be true. (For a while after Chrysler purchased Dodge they seemed to keep the older Dodge stuff in production and until '33 the Plymouths all shipped with four cylinder engines.) On the bottom of my spare pump there is 600797-14. The general appearance is the same as the later pumps for internal bypass but the pulley and hub are one piece and the inlet to the block is rectangular rather than the half-moon of the '35 and up pumps. If you are trying to verify the engine is correct, the first letters of the engine number stamped on the block above the generator mounting bracket should tell you that. I'd have to look up the Dodge model engineering codes but I suspect it would be something like DP or DO. Thank you. That should be enough to let me know. The engine came with the car even though it wasn't in it,so I had nothing to lose by hauling it home. Got the 318 and 904,too. They are sitting in the car right now,with the engine supported by 2x4's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 30, 2016 Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 two schools of thought here and depends on your mindset as to which will work best for you.....pull the short stud and replace with suitable new stud of high grade and be able to obtain a replacement pump along the road should you have a pump failure....or have two short body pumps built with one in the trunk as a back up spare...both will work equally well....you next question might well be...what condition will my rebuilt back up spare be in after storage x years before need to install... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingster Posted July 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 While we're on the subject of water pumps, I managed to get the rotted cork plug out of the water pump inlet port, but not without a piece of cork falling back into the pump. Now, I would like to start the engine before taking everything apart to see how it runs. Will this piece of cork lodge itself somewhere in the cooling system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 30, 2016 Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 Why was there a cork plug in the water pump??? Did you try using a shop vacuum cleaner to suck out the crumbled cork? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingster Posted July 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 I don't know why there was a cork in there. I guess I must have put it in there seven years ago. Anyway, a vacuum is a good idea. But I can't be sure it sucked the cork piece out of the pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 30, 2016 Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 If it were me I would empty the vacuum canister before I used the vacuum to suck out the pump. Then I would inspect it after sucking the pump to see if there were any hunks of cork it there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingster Posted July 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 Another good idea. I try it! Thanks, Don. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted July 30, 2016 Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 where was the cork plug installed on the pump? can you take the pump off again and then take the backing plate off the back of the pump and then you would beable to cleanout the entire unit. Hartung desoto1939@aol.com 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingster Posted July 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 The cork was in the intake port from the lower radiator hose. I'd like to fire up the engine before taking the radiator, fan and pump apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted July 31, 2016 Report Share Posted July 31, 2016 Probably the only place that pieces of cork will get stuck are in the thermostat (probably just temporary depending upon the size of the pieces), or in the top of the radiator where the coolant attempts to flow down to cool.(there again probably only temporary while running, as the cork should float back up when the engine is shut off) If you are not concerned with those areas possibly getting plugged start it up, and give it a run. Also could get stuck in the heater core if you have one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingster Posted July 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2016 Thanks. I'll try Don's advice and then fire it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
medium_jon Posted July 29, 2017 Report Share Posted July 29, 2017 On 7/29/2016 at 8:09 PM, plymjim said: I just bought one from Parts Geek.com. Fits well, functions well but the 4 bolts holding the rear plate to the main housing are metric. @plymjim: metric! Gasp. Lol. I just removed some metric bolts from my P20 a couple of weeks ago. It felt good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted July 29, 2017 Report Share Posted July 29, 2017 I have a ebuilt WP that has the sealed bearing but is missing the backing plate. This will fit your Desoto. I will sell it to you since the body style is for the later engined that have the bigger body style that has the bolt instead of the nut and treaded stud. If your are interested then contact me. i know the company and person that rebuilt the pump. Rich Hartung esoto1939@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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