Can't figure it out myself. Reaching out for help

[greg g]

Water injection is a process that goes back at least to WW II aircraft technology. It was used to attain peak performance for short periods at high altitude. This on carbureted engines, engines with turbo chargers, Allison's, Rolls Royce, Pratt and Whitney, and probably many others. What ever its purpose, the fact that bi hydrogen monoxide was introduced into the combustion chambers as a mist or vapor of internal combustion engines 70 or more years ago. Now would I glug a liter bottle of water down my carb? Probably not. But I don't have a carbon build up problem.

[The Oil Soup]

The primary risk is you can't compress a liquid (water) but you can compress a gas (steam).

[NiftyFifty]

70 years ago you couldn't swing into the parts store and grab a can of seafoam or MM or spray carb cleaner....you absolutely can today, and it's a much safer and appropriate application....why that wouldn't sense as the first choice, is beyond me, but as we all live in free countries...have at it with your own selected method.....and don't forget to keep your blinker fluid up!!

[tom'sB2B]

Here are some pics when I pulled the head

[tom'sB2B]

I got my truck moved to the new place and under my new car port. I pulled the head today and discovered the gasket blown between 5 and 6. Everything else looks good...I think. What should I be looking for in regards to bad rings or valve issues or something else? 

[tom'sB2B]

while I'm thinking about it, this is my plan of attack. Let me know if there is something I miss

 

1. Clean head and head bolts

2. Clean both mating surfaces with brake cleaner. Clean out bolt hole threads

3. Paint the head

4. Spray gasket with copper gasket sealer.....do I spray sealer on both sides or just copper side?

     Use pemetex #2 on bolt threads

5. Copper side mates with block surface 

6. Put head back on tighten bolts in pattern recommended by shop manual and torque to 65-70 lbs

7. Run to driving temp and retorque, recommended to check torque every few hundred miles

[Young Ed]

while I'm thinking about it, this is my plan of attack. Let me know if there is something I miss

 

1. Clean head and head bolts

2. Clean both mating surfaces with brake cleaner. Clean out bolt hole threads

3. Paint the head

4. Spray gasket with copper gasket sealer.....do I spray sealer on both sides or just copper side?

     Use pemetex #2 on bolt threads

5. Copper side mates with block surface 

6. Put head back on tighten bolts in pattern recommended by shop manual and torque to 65-70 lbs

7. Run to driving temp and retorque, recommended to check torque every few hundred miles

Sounds good with one addition. Before you get to #3. Check head with straight edge to determine its still straight/flat. 

[greg g]

Gasket should be installed dry or with a thin film of gp grease on the engine side.  Your compression on your other cylinders looked go, no reason to think 5 and 6  would not be the same after the gasket is repaired.  you want to chase the threads on the head bolts to make sure there is no debris in the threads, at a minimum a spiral brush down the bolt holes.  The proper sequence of bolt tightening needs to be followed when reinstalling, it is illustrated in the service manual.  Torquing should be done in increments say 40 lb ft, then 60, the 70/5 as called for.  A retorque in sequence is needed after getting the engine up to operating temp.  Most folks let it cool down some and then do the retorque  when the temp gauge is in the 80 to 100 degree range.

[Dave72dt]

Unless the head bolts go into the water jacket, there is no need for a sealer on them.   Common use of motor oil on the thread of the bolt and under the head of the bolt will suffice.  ARP makes an excellent thread lube but it's pricey.  GP grease, copper spray, aluminum spray on the gasket or dry is a builders personal preference.

[Brent B3B]

Right or wrong Tom, I put mine together last week with the copper spray and #2 sealant ( three bolts going into the manifold ports, didn't need sealer)

[Jeff Balazs]

When I was a kid I worked in a big repair garage. The line mechanics there did hundreds of valve jobs there every year. They were all old timers and by this point all used coppercoat and swore by the stuff. Over the years so have I and I have never had any regrets about using it.

Follow the sequence and you should be fine. It is a good idea to retorque a few times after the initial round and the engine has gone through several heat cycles. Make sure you re-check the manifold bolts too.

 

Jeff

[Veemoney]

In the pictures I see your motor has what looks like a rebuilders tag under by the serial number stamp. It is a good idea when you are cleaning the tops of the piston to note if the pistons are stamped oversized for example say .030" might be on the top of the piston and if it agrees with the rebuilder tag. Good to know for future reference just to make a note of it somewhere. You could also mic the cylinder bore to figure out what kind of wear you have if you wanted to take it a step further as long as you have it open.

[ptwothree]

A blown head gasket allowing water into the combustion chamber has always resulted in a zero carbon condition at tear down time.  

[torqczar]

 I got to chime in on this problem, new guy here.  have been making a living working cars since '76 .  My opinion is, none of the exhaust  valves are seating, all valves are the wrong color, exhaust valve  should be tan,intakes should be dark gray.. looks to be a guide problem. some of the valve are sunk. this raises hell on seat pressure. how many strokes to get compression reading you got , do you remember the first stroke psi ? I guess 40 psi, if it wasn't 60 to 70 psi you have a   valve and/or ring  problem ..  the  fuel mixture is waaay too rich. the black color  in chamber.  this is a float  level problem  and/or needle and seat.  notice fuel wash marks  on piston edges.   A problem in combustion chamber , could  cause gasket fail, it doesn't look to be a warp head or block. the head gasket looks to be  thick enough everywhere. well as much as I can tell  from pictures. this motor was pinging, weather? or not you could hear it or not .   the motor might of been rebuilt at some point, but it sat somewhere  for along time without moving. the rust marks on cylinder wall.. also the fuel we have today doesn't have a lot of ash, so if you have a carbon build up then , there is oil in combustion chamber.   From past experience if you don't fix the problem, it won't go away. doctors fix the symptoms ,mechanics fix the problem..hope you get it straighten out. feel free to pick my theory apart. the INTERNET is a harsh place.

[Geekay]

Thanks for this very informative post and great to see that we can have different opinions, based on our personal experience, without being hammered, like so often happens on some social media.