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Knob Removal


ROB-PA
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I know that this has been discussed before but my search of previous posts did not find anything that matches what I have on the 35 Plymouth.

 

I have just finished stripping the firewall and the dash. The only holdout is the 2 light switches; Headlight and Panel Lights. The knobs don't have the slot mentioned in all the other posts. I don't know if they are threaded on or if they are pushed over a spline. The bezel or escutcheon or whatever it is called has the 2 slots that appear to take a special tool which I will most likely end up fabbing.

 

I thought that would consult with the experts before I destroyed something.

 

Any advise?

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On my '33 the light switch knob simply threads onto the shaft coming out of the switch. But, of course, light switches are something they changed every year so it could be they came up with some other scheme by '35.

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Can't say about the knob. The pix is a '35 Plymouth headlight switch. Any clues? Slotted bezel tools can be bought from here, or made. I had to fab a tool to fit my '49 bezel, which was a hex shape.

 

post-8890-0-84079700-1467158231_thumb.jpg

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Thanks Tod, I thought that they might be threaded but didn't have any luck trying to unthread; guess I'll try a little harder.

 

Well, if that photo posted by rb1949 is correct, it looks like the whole shaft comes out somehow, so I'd be a little cautious on trying a little harder.

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On newer (fifties and up) ford and GM there is a spring loaded button on the switch body that you push in and the shaft and knob pull out. Don't know if mopar switches would be similar.

Edited by vintage6t
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  • Solution

Well today I got a chance to spend some time working on the Plymouth an I solved my switch removal dilemma.

 

On both the Panel Light switch and the Headlight switch you need to go to the fully extended position. On the panel light switch this lines up a hole in the outer switch body and the inner slide. The hole is near the dash on the passenger side. You can then insert a probe and with some wiggling and some pressure the knob and shaft will slide out.

 

The Headlight switch is similar but the hole is on the top near the dash. Both have a groove around the shaft that an internal clip locks into for retention.

 

Amazingly enough after 80 plus years both switches function well.

 

I don't know if there are any other years that share this method but hopefully this will save someone else the scraped knuckles and knots on the head that I got figuring it out.

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