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slow turn over


blue p15

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Hey guys, I need your opinion on my car. It turns over very slowly - not fast enough to start.  It always seems to turn slower that I think it should, The difference is that it is VERY slow now.  My cables from the battery to the relay, from the relay to the starter, and from the battery to the engine ground are all marked 2/0  and are new within the last 2 years.  I cleaned all the connections on battery, the relay, and the ground.  When I check with a volt meter, I have 6.25 volts at the battery, 6.25 on the hot side of the starter relay, and 2.7 - 4.1 on the starter side of the relay (it varies every time I check it).  There is also 2.7 - 4.1 at the starter.  I have 5 volts at the small post on the relay.  Does this say I need a new relay?  Or is there another problem that is making the low reading on the starter side?  Thanks in advance for your input.  

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You may need a new relay, try bridging the relay with a heavy jumper.... like another battery cable

and see what happens.  Wear gloves,  the amperage is substantial and can make a lot of heat in a hurry.

The next item to check would be the starter motor itself.  

 

I remember burning myself while using a pair of pliers to bridge the contacts .  The pivot on the pliers was not up to carrying the current.  Have not done that again.

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If the starter bushings wear, they can wear in an oval pattern.  this wear may allow the armature windings to come into contact with field coils.  This will cause considerable drag slowing the starter way down.  The usual culprit is the rear bushing.  If you are satisfied that your solenoid is passing all the current it should be that might be where to look for your problem.  As far as turning too slowly to start, remember car is only a couple years removed from ones that were still equipped with a hand crank starter.  It is not the speed of the turnover, but the way carbs, timing, points and plugs are set up and their effectiveness that control the eagerness to start.  But it seems your solenoid may be at fault if it is not passing full voltage.

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I would connect a voltmeter across the main terminals on your starter solenoid, and take a reading while the engine is cranking over. There should be minimal voltage indicated on your voltmeter. If you get a reading of 1 or 2 volts, I'd replace the solenoid. Any corrosion, deterioration,etc. of the contacts within the solenoid will result in a voltage drop due to resistance. The contacts within the solenoid can deteriorate over time, and cause the problem you are experiencing. It's a quick & easy test, and might point you in the right direction

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As already suggested, bypass the solenoid with a heavy jumper wire to eliminate it as a source of the problem.

 

 

EDIT: and if you have a long enough jumper you can bypass your battery cables as well by connecting at the battery first, and then touching the other end directly to the starter.

 

There will be a spark, so you want that at the starter end rather than near the battery.

Edited by shel_ny
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Oldguy48, it shows 5 volts across the solenoid terminals with the ignition off.  Almost none when cranking.

If it shows almost no voltage when cranking, that indicates that your solenoid contacts are working like they should.
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I rebuilt;t my started for this reason, it would not crank fast enough to get the engine running. When I opened it up I found my brushes and bushings were severely worn. My armature was making contact with the field coils as well, the armature as scratched all around. I got a new armature, new bushings and brushes. It cranks over like a champ ever since. 

post-9130-0-22152200-1464900410_thumb.jpg

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