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Hood Sound Deadner/Insulation?


rb1949

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Have seen topics where people have used sound deadner/insulation on headliners, door panels and firewalls. A multitude of material choices. Which gets covered up. How about under the hood? A common material seems to be that black mat fiberglass stuff. No clips, it would need an adhesive. These old cars have gigantic slabs of tin called a hood. That familiar 'bang' when closing it. Eliminating the bang is more important than trying to 'insulate'. Anybody done it? Any recommendations of material? Or adhesive? Did it last, and work? Your experience and suggestions welcome.

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I've never noticed it being used under a hood,but I've seen a lot of floors,doors,and roofs covered with that silver sound deadening/insulation stuff that comes with an adhesive backing. It all gets covered up with upholstery or floor mats inside the car,but I guess there would be nothing keeping you from spay painting it body color or flat black after installing it under a  hood.

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If you were inclined to do something of that nature I would think maybe a spry on undercoating thinly applied so as to not drastically increase the weight of the hood. The other option is as you suggested but you would need to make sure of the adhesive. Would not be good if it fell off while driving; might not know until you see smoke!

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If you were inclined to do something of that nature I would think maybe a spry on undercoating thinly applied so as to not drastically increase the weight of the hood. The other option is as you suggested but you would need to make sure of the adhesive. Would not be good if it fell off while driving; might not know until you see smoke!

Another option would be to use a factory hood pad from a 60's to 80's American car and cut it down to size. The hoods on all of our cars are much smaller than the hoods of all these cars,so it shouldn't be any trouble to find one at a reasonable price.

 

Not sure about the plastic discs that pop on and hold the insulation pad in place,but I'd be surprised it you couldn't superglue the stud to the bottom of your hood so you could use the circular discs from the modern hood to hold it in place.

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keep in mind that even the welded Plymouth hood that when joined is one piece has many holes along the center seam that could allow your silencing matt to be impregnated with water,,causing sagging and what is worse than that, premature rust/corrosion..tread with caution...

True,but if your car isn't finish painted,or even if it is,you could caulk the seam to make sure no water got through.

 

Of course,you would have to make sure it was a caulk that would accept paint. I am sure there must be seam sealers  available commercially for auto body use under paint,but I just don't know what they are called.

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No seams here, just a big hood. The undercoat spray crossed my mind. The fiberglass pads are 4' x4', one not enough. Yes, consider weight, the hood is heavy enough now. Plus the weight of the material, being held upside down. Would the adhesive withstand under hood conditions, and keep it up there.  Thought there was a thin foam type product. No hurry. Thanks.

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" . . . spay painting it . . ." I have spray painted my sound deadening in my truck's cab. Paint does NOT adhere to the slick silver material. That a pad of any sort, could fall on a hot engine is very sobering even frightening. 

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think condensation then if no seam...without sealed edges you going to get condensation and the ever changing hood temp when engine cycles is a guarantee..have seen some very high dollar cars with said examples of this type material place for said effect you desire only to have its structural strength weakened due to hidden rust for condensation cycles..

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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think condensation then if no seam...without sealed edges you going to get condensation and the ever changing hood temp when engine cycles is a guarantee..have seen some very high dollar cars with said examples of this type material place for said effect you desire only to have its structural strength weakened due to hidden rust for condensation cycles..

Then why isn't this a problem with modern cars?

 

I am GUESSING the insulation material prevents the condensation from taking place because the hood itself doesn't get very hot,and the car is mostly going down the road with the wind cooling the hood from the top.

 

BTW,I am talking about the factory installed black insulation that is held in place by plastic circles on pins,not the silver stuff people glue to floors.

Edited by knuckleharley
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with some it is...again...the finer print of my entry..some high dollar cars being outfitted with said material leading to these end results and the caution to tread lightly...not all surfaces need to be coated to provide your end results....just food for thought...each person should know the limitation and end use of their cars and proceed accordingly....just another factor that should have weight in the equation

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Have seen many plymouths and chryslers 1946-52 with thick heavy optioned undercoating on the underside of the hoods.

A good idea if you ask me.

1949-50 Chryslers  have weak wimpy hood hinges and springs though! :(

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