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Is This a Dodge Fluid Drive transmission?


newwife

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I picked up a Dodge engine and transmission for spare parts.  1)  I am wanting to confirm the type of transmission.  2)  Are these plentiful?, rare? I removed the transmission and it shifts by hand. The clutch lever moves the collar and mice have made a nest in there. It has all the linkages. I am restoring a 1948 Doge Power Wagon and am trying to get a second dodge car engine running.  See the photo link

 

http://photos.imageevent.com/scott56/1941dodgeflatheadandtransmission/websize/fluid%20drive%20w%20linkage.JPG

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Well the bell housings certainly looks deep enough to be a fluid drive unit, and the transmission appears to be a transmission.  Looks like a standard three speed manually shifted one.  The two units are seperate and distinct.  A picture of the passenger side of the transmission will give more information as to whether it is a manual or a semi automatic.

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http://imageevent.com/scott56/1941dodgeflatheadandtransmission;jsessionid=joxhd6o361.eagle_s

 

I have included a link to all the photos of the transmission.  And I would like to sell it but before I post in classified, I would like to confirm what it is.

 

 

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http://imageevent.com/scott56/1941dodgeflatheadandtransmission;jsessionid=joxhd6o361.eagle_s

 

I have included a link to all the photos of the transmission.  And I would like to sell it but before I post in classified, I would like to confirm what it is.

Where is the fun in that?

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I know Tod will wrap my knuckles for this... 

 

But, I would like to take a trip down from San Francisco and take a look at this transmission. 

 

If it is what I think, I will buy it from you. You can email direct at JDD@8bells.com

 

James.

 

************   EDIT **************

 

Never mind.  Once I got to your hi-res photos, I see it has a clutch...I thought it may be an early powerflite.  It is likely a fluid torque drive with a three speed stick. All in all not a bad set up.

 

Be careful about one thing.  If it is one of the fluid torque drives that Shared the oil with the engine, then there is a special hole that fed through to the trans.  That hole has to be plugged.  I think it is in the rear main housing and the block.

 

James

Edited by James_Douglas
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1)  Is there any trick to separating the clutch/"torque converter" from the crankshaft?  2)  what type of fluid does it use and how does it get into the converter.  Sorry, May not have the terminology correct.

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The fluid coupling unbolts from the crankshaft without spilling the fluid, much like a pressure plate would.  Think of the fluid coupling assembly as a very thick pressure plate.

 

(In removing the fluid coupling, be sure to mark the components first, so that upon reassembly, the one off-center bolt hole lines up.) 

 

There is very little space to get the nuts in.  Start the nuts on all the bolts before starting to tighten the bolts.  I bought a pair of real long needle-nose pliers to hold the nuts while threading the bolts int them.  

 

There are threads on fluid coupling fluid.  Maybe the fluid won't need replacing.  There is an access cover on the floor hump, and a plug on the side of the coupling.

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The FD is a self contained unit. There are studs on the crankshaft end with nuts on the front side. You'll need a thin 5/8" wrench to get up in there to loosen them. And as Donald said, mark it's relationship to the crank flange to make reassembly easier.

1. Remove transmission from bell housing

2. Remove clutch from FD clutch plate. (to reduce weight and make it easier to remove)

3. Loosen all 8 nuts on the front of the crank flange

4. Remove all 8 nuts and carefully lower the FD unit out the bottom.

 

It'll hold a gallon or two of oil, but it won't spill out when handled. However, be careful with it. Rough handling can cause damage to the seal between the clutch plate and the FD housing. These seals are hard to find and harder to replace.

 

Merle

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Thanks to all for the advice.  The biggest issue was the engine appeared to be seized. More than half of the head bolts nuts needed to be cut off since they were rusted to round.  I put a little marvel Mystery Oil on top of each cylinder and let it sit for a day. This morning I tried a big screwdriver on the flywheel teeth and the engine turned over much easier than I figured. Got the bell-housing, clutch and fluid drive unit off very easily.  Not bad once you can see what is going on. 

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