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Wiper motor question (electric)


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Can someone tell me, when the wipers are in the park position which way the arms face on the motor itself? Mine both face 7 o'clock, but that doesn't seem right. My drivers side wiper is in the horizontal and if I put passenger side in horizontal the first stroke of the wiper goes down off the winshield onto the cowl. Make sense?

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The wiper arms on the motor assembly want to be at about 10 O'clock and 2 O'clock respectively.

If they are not you will have to open up the gear enclosure (s) and adjust them accordingly. The side with the power lead contains a cam operated / contact switch for the park feature.

Hope this helps.

Jeff

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Ok that did the trick. Now just some fine tuning for the park feature. Seems to be a fine line for them to park or continuously run when the switch is turned off or stop immediately as soon as the switch is turned off.

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Yes getting the park feature properly adjusted can be a bit fiddly. You will want to bench test it several times before installing back in the truck.

I just went through one of these this winter. A good clean up and fresh Mobil One synthetic grease made a very noticeable difference to how well the wipers work.

Of course we never got much rain...... :huh: but it took care of what little we got.

 

Jeff

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  • 11 months later...

Electric wiper question.

I just rewired my truck, got gauges and spedo back in the dash - I had taken out the wiper motor, cleaned up the motor and all connections, rewired the leads and hooked up the switch. hooked up a negative lead to the switch at the "breaker" and hooked positive to a screw on the motor housing. The motor worked great on the bench, two position switch moves motor at low and high speed as expected. I installed in the truck and when I energize no movement, I hear the breaker click too... I'm scrutinizing my wiring now but am thinking I need to pull the wiper motor out and revisit it.

I'm wondering if I crossed something up. When I stomped the starter it fired right up turned the engine over once or twice and then let the smoke out...starter seized up just buzzed and didn't move.  I pulled it took it all apart and cleaned up everything inside, found no real shorts or bad brushes. I cleaned and put it back together and it works great on jumper cables, need to re-install and test in the truck. Incidentally, I saw some other posts where people we struggling with starter remove/replace. I ground slots in both bolt heads to start them in with a screwdriver and then used crows foot wrench made short work of it.

There's no doghouse on yet, so probing leads- the headlight, tail light, and dimmer switch light leads seem to function properly key on/off & light switch cycles lights right. I'm having new battery cables made up in 2-0 because I found a local shop that would. So I've got jumpers powering the dash at the moment. .

Just for gut check. When I bug light the back of the gauge cluster, I get power at both Amp connections and at both fuel gauge connections. should there be? I'll bring my DVM out there and see what I have for voltage. Was surprised to see power at both studs on the fuel gauge, with nothing hooked up to the blue wire that currently is swinging in the engine compartment waiting for me to finish the tank and get a sending unit....

If anyone has thoughts on the wiper motor please let me know... if you have a wiper switch you want to sell please PM me. I need the lever that goes on the switch for electric and the nut that holds the switch in the dash, I'm not yet convinced I don't need the whole switch.

Any insight welcome!

 

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You will see voltage on both sides of the ammeter since the current just passes through it to feed the truck's electrical system. For the fuel gauge, if the sensor wire is not connected you will see voltage on both terminals. If the sensor is connected, and working, your voltage should be reduced on the sensor terminal. As the sensor moves it changes the resistance to ground for the sensor, which in turn changes the current flow through the gauge to move the needle.

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Thanks Merle! Makes sense now. I'm still chasing what appears to be a bad wiper motor. Thanks Gdad - Perhaps I have something shorted in the lead to the switch. It all worked on the bench and now when energized the breaker opens like an over current or short.  Perhaps I pulled the strain relief and shorted something inside where the connection from switch to motor is. Going to have to pull it out to have a look.

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