MartinsB3B Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 I've only posted with problems I've currently had with my pickup, so I'll start with a build thread. I got my engine dropped in, rebuilding my distributor now ( picking up points set tomorrow), The transmission is bolted up and I have few things left for my Park/Hand brake. Will be attempting to start the engine once the points are in. The brakes will next, then wiring kit and last body work. The engine is a 230 from a '50 D34, Transmission is three speed floor shift from a '37, using the turn key starter from the D34 as well. I lowered the truck, removed two leaves from the front and three from the rear, now with the engine sitting in and the wheels cut to the right the drag link is hitting the bottom of the oil pan, being a rear sump pan. I will try to get some more pictures up when I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Yup you need a truck oil pan front sump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinsB3B Posted April 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Thinking about putting the leaf springs back in to raise the truck back up some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 It would be better to get the correct oil pan, as Ed mentioned. With a front sump pan the clearance issue is moot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinsB3B Posted April 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 The engine that was in the truck before had the rear sump, but removing 2 leaves from the front now made in an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 The engine that was in the truck before had the rear sump, but removing 2 leaves from the front now made in an issue. GGdad on here had this same issue. His truck is a 1ton with stock springs and he still had issues on bumps until he swapped pans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinsB3B Posted April 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 I don't think I'll have that much problem out of mine if I put the leaves back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinsB3B Posted April 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2016 With the help of a friend of mine we got the engine running last night and let idle for a couple minutes. The transmission I have is out of a '37 so I'll be using the same driveshaft from the '37, I also have to get the yoke from the rear axle to put onto my '52 since the U-joints are different. Anyone else had the same problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted April 3, 2016 Report Share Posted April 3, 2016 Most any drive shaft shop can make a new shaft for you. I used Dave's Driveshaft in Nashville, TN. Cost was around a hundred bucks if I recall. Had this done about 12 years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinsB3B Posted April 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2016 Is there anyway to look up a transmission by the numbers on the sides of the casting? I have a 4 speed that my grandpa put in the truck, It was a bulldog that came out of a larger truck, but without knowing the size it would be harder to find parts for. Anyway, the numbers on the block look to read C-38561. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted April 8, 2016 Report Share Posted April 8, 2016 You put the leaves back in, but did you account for road travel where those leaves will sag agin once the truck is driven, and on a hard bump, can the truck go down enough to interfere with the steering? I'm an expert at this after installing a rack and pinion to my solid axle and fighting with oil pan clearance issues....I think you need to get the correct oil pan, and save all the hassle you might have...which could include a popped engine from ripping the pan, or worse, losing control of the truck from them hitting and jerking the steering. Just my .02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinsB3B Posted April 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2016 I'll be pulling the engine again so if I can find the oil pan I need I will switch it. I'll be swapping transmissions from the 3 speed to the 4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinsB3B Posted May 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 Been a little while from my last post, got the engine out and trans swapped and then reinstalled last night, today I got the drives haft hooked up and the clutch and brake pedals in. Now I need to do a little modifying to the floor pan to allow the pedals to come up all the way. Big thanks to 48Dodger for the new truck "man pan" to clear the axle and drag links. Now I have a question. For you all who have a 4spd non-synchro, what kind of spacer is there between the clutch and brake pedal? I'm currently using the bracket that holds the springs and connects to the bell housing and rod for the clutch. It's still too small because the pedal rocks back and forth. I will post some progress pictures soon, and also will be trying a test drive soon(couple months)!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinsB3B Posted May 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 Here is where I need information on the spacer between the pedals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinsB3B Posted May 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 Also installed my parking brake band, adjusted it in and cleaned up with two new springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinsB3B Posted May 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 Here's the 230ci After I installed it, I was surprised how much it cleaned up. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 There should not be a spacer there. I wonder if you need to put a bushing in on the pedal......could be very worn? Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinsB3B Posted May 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 There's a little less than a half inch between the pedals without that bracket in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brent B3B Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 (edited) There should not be a spacer there. I wonder if you need to put a bushing in on the pedal......could be very worn? Jeff hmmm, one of my b3b's (non fluid drive) also has what looks like a thick washer Edited May 12, 2016 by Brent B3B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinsB3B Posted May 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 That's it, the pedals are the same and the bracket for the springs are the same. Anyway you could measure that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brent B3B Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 sure, if nobody else does, when I get home from work tonight I will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinsB3B Posted May 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 Sounds good. I'll probably have to make one since there is no tellin where my old one is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 hmmm, one of my b3b's (non fluid drive) also has what looks like a thick washer pedal.JPG I just crawled under mine and there are definitely no spacers. The bracket between the pedals is more like 3/4" wide though. I suppose if you have too much play you could try adding a thick washer between the bracket and the pedal. Jeff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brent B3B Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 I just crawled under mine and there are definitely no spacers. The bracket between the pedals is more like 3/4" wide though. I suppose if you have too much play you could try adding a thick washer between the bracket and the pedal. Jeff yeah, I'm under the impression it is a "farmer fix" after the bracket broke. my fluid drive and HH both have the bracket..... i'll have to check my column shift one later Martin, yours looks like it has the correct bracket..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinsB3B Posted May 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 yeah, I'm under the impression it is a "farmer fix" after the bracket broke. my fluid drive and HH both have the bracket..... i'll have to check my column shift one later Martin, yours looks like it has the correct bracket..... The picture you posted has the same bracket for the springs as what was on mine. The bracket came off of the 37 bellhousing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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