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Newby Advice Request - Is this 1950 3/4 a Good Deal


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FYI on the rusty hope mention...not 100% on 3/4 ton, BUT WILL NOT WORK WITH 1 TON AXLE!! And from what I recall, 3/4 tons were the same...it's not that the plate won't bolt up, but you can't get a bearing that will fit the larger shaft and still fit the rotor..same with the seal. I had to hunt for a 1/2 ton axle to do my swap, and that's wasn't easy here in farm territory...1/2 tons wernt popular

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ggdad1951, on 24 Mar 2016 - 1:20 PM, said:ggdad1951, on 24 Mar 2016 - 1:20 PM, said:

NO WHERE in his website does he talk about relining a cast iron drum, just in his company name.  He could call his comapny "Pink Elephant relining" and it would mean just as much.

 

From everything I know how the world works...not a good idea.  If it was such a good idea, there would be more than one company out there doing it.  Especially at those prices.  

 

I'm done with this, you are being stuborn and oblivious to the reality of the situation.

 

Back to the OP discussion.

note please, no one here is now or ever saying you have to do anything you do not have a warm fuzzy with...if however you cannot believe the name of the company, care not to call and ask and further discount the very entry of member Ralph Pearce who did call,,,was quoted x money for relining cast iron drums...then I don't see why you cannot just let it go....the mere fact one owner here has inquired tell me there is some forum interest...just sharing..not dictating any dealings whatsoever...

 

Ralph Pearce

Posted Yesterday, 06:20 PM

 

     Yes, this is the outfit that I contacted (J & G), and yes they reline cast iron drums.  Last year a fellow named Don gave me an estimate of $320 plus shipping per drum.  I decided to just go with cleaning up my current drums for now (not bad, but not turnable), and they stop me just fine. Before deciding on relining the drums, I would look further into the techniques employed, then check with my local expert Tom Holthaus at Quality Machine Shop in Santa Clara.  Before doing that though, I think I'd probably switch to discs in the front and mount a pair of turnable rear drums I just picked up.  Should last me for as long as I need, and I also hear that some brake lining is more "drum friendly" so as to extend the life of the drum.  Lots of options.

Edited by Ralph Pearce, Yesterday, 06:46 PM.

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Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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FYI on the rusty hope mention...not 100% on 3/4 ton, BUT WILL NOT WORK WITH 1 TON AXLE!! And from what I recall, 3/4 tons were the same...it's not that the plate won't bolt up, but you can't get a bearing that will fit the larger shaft and still fit the rotor..same with the seal. I had to hunt for a 1/2 ton axle to do my swap, and that's wasn't easy here in farm territory...1/2 tons wernt popular

Just so you know the Rusty Hope caliper mount fits the 3/4 ton spindles.......got it mounted on my 3/4 ton. Have to use wheel spacers but it all works fine.

 

There are significant component differences between the various models and this is what I was trying to point out from the start. Things might look similar to a newbie......but it isn't always the same when going from model to model. It is probably best if he knows this from the start.

 

Jeff

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Considering the price of the truck, its proximity to the sea air and snowy roads, the apparent rattlecan paint atop dents & scrapes, the plywood bed, exposed fuel tank, non-original front bumper...I dunno that price seems kinda high for something that is nowhere near original condition, it may be a timebomb of a moneypit...ya might start having problems down the road, and attempts at repair may snowball as other things break down...this could lead to some bad feelings with your mechanic...I've passed on opportunities similar to this as it was apparent that the tinkerer was no craftsman and was looking to make some $$$, not interested in a quality repair as in getting it "close enough"...tread carefully :cool:

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Just so you know the Rusty Hope caliper mount fits the 3/4 ton spindles.......got it mounted on my 3/4 ton. Have to use wheel spacers but it all works fine.

 

There are significant component differences between the various models and this is what I was trying to point out from the start. Things might look similar to a newbie......but it isn't always the same when going from model to model. It is probably best if he knows this from the start.

 

Jeff

I had no issue mounting the plate at all....but could not get any bearings to fit that lip on the spindle shaft...but I've heard others have issue as well with 3/4 ton axle..so maybe for some reason the plant here used the bigger 1 ton axle instead. Were you able to use the recommended bearings on your conversion?

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I had no issue mounting the plate at all....but could not get any bearings to fit that lip on the spindle shaft...but I've heard others have issue as well with 3/4 ton axle..so maybe for some reason the plant here used the bigger 1 ton axle instead. Were you able to use the recommended bearings on your conversion?

Yes the wheel bearings fit perfectly. These front discs along with the rear disc type axle and the modern M/C have made for a very good upgrade. Might not be a necessity in a lot of applications but this truck can stop in about half the distance you would expect. And without any fuss. Definitely some of the best money I spent on the truck. This is the first truck I have owned with 4 wheel disc brakes and it continues to amaze me at how well this combination works.

Now if I could just find a close ratio gearbox to fit it with no OD and full synchro it would be perfect ;)

 

Jeff

Edited by Jeff Balazs
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HI all, Original poster here.  I have update on condition of truck and some photos (as you will see, I am no photographer).

 

Truck has 28,000 original miles.  Motor rebuilt 2 years ago - 2500 miles on motor.  New transmission.  Fluid drive in perfect shape. All brakes and brake lines are new. rebuilt rear end.  All suspension redone. Basically everything on the truck mechanically is spot on (No Rust). It does have a plywood bed, something I can change out.  Windshield rubber is new - needs all other window rubber replaced.  New floor and mats. New seat. No rust.

 

As you can see in photos, paint not very good and there is some dings and bondo ripples.  My inlaw owns a body shop that specializes in restorations.  So I can get most cosmetic work and paint done for next to nothing.

 

Worth $6,800?  I get the impression that he'll go down to at least $6,000 - if not a little lower.

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Did you drive it? And did you like it? :) Regardless of what any of us say you are the one that needs to be happy with it.

 

It looks pretty decent to me. I would think that if it is as solid as you say that it is probably worth more in your part of the country than a rust free truck here in Southern California. My gut feel for this model truck in this condition is $5 to $9K. And there is enough relatively easy stuff left to finish off that you can put your own brand on it by the time it is all done. This is of course just my opinion.

 

Jeff

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An engine that sits is sometimes worse then one with a pile of miles...the sitting means pitting! Look at me rhyming away...

For $6000 I'd say it's likely a good deal as long as the rebuilds were done properly, easily $2500-3000 in parts likely went into all the work...so now id say yes, looks like a decent buy

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Currently running in California craigs list is a 48 Dodge three window 'farm fresh" i.e., all in tact and seeming rust free but not dent free. The lister is asking $3 500. IMHO that is too high but it does make the one you are looking at reasonable.  Buy it as it is, get a greeter job at Wall-mart and enjoy the truck and all your new friends. LOL 

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I drove the truck, it drives great.  Motor hums like a sewing machine, albeit a rather loud sewing machine at about 40 mph.  Haven't used a choke since I sold my Cessna 172.

 

We agreed on $5800 - throwing in the original 16 inch wheels and Dodge moon hubcaps.  I guess I'll be around a lot more now.  Thanks for everyone's help and advice.

 

Number 1 job, fix the parking brake.  Fluid Drives will roll in any gear.

 

Thanks again,

 

Big Easy 

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yes, the parking brake is a necessity on the fluid-drives.  you'll just need to get in the habit of releasing the brake each time you get in the truck.

 

i use the parking brake in EVERY vehicle i own, and i engage them every single time i park them - if i'm getting out of the vehicle, the parking brake goes on.  make remembering to release the brake easier, since it becomes a habit.  the driveline parking brake will wear out quickly if it is not disengaged.

 

wally

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I have a 4X4 with a 24" handle. Works great and easily replaceable. At my age, releasing a handbrake requires too much short term memory!. Gotta save as much of that as I can for wrenching!.

Edited by pflaming
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I drove the truck, it drives great.  Motor hums like a sewing machine, albeit a rather loud sewing machine at about 40 mph.  Haven't used a choke since I sold my Cessna 172.

 

We agreed on $5800 - throwing in the original 16 inch wheels and Dodge moon hubcaps.  I guess I'll be around a lot more now.  Thanks for everyone's help and advice.

 

Number 1 job, fix the parking brake.  Fluid Drives will roll in any gear.

 

Thanks again,

 

Big Easy 

Sounds like you will have fun with it.

If all the components are there fixing the parking brake is fairly easy. I suggest you obtain the service and parts manual as items are different from year to year and model to model. These books are quite helpful when starting to get familar with your purchase. Lot's of times you will find little changes over the original stock condition.......the parts manual comes in very handy then. :)

Have fun.

 

Jeff

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I have a 4X4 with a 24" handle. Works great and easily replaceable. At my age, releasing a handbrake requires too much short term memory!. Gotta save as much of that as I can for wrenching!.

Yes! My first major update to the truck was a set of wheel chocks!

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