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Front Engine Mount


Branded

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Anyone have a source for front engine mounts that aren't junk. I bought a reproduction and the thing fell apart before I even got the engine installed in the car. Plans was to install the engine back in the 49 Wayfarer today but that's not happening. Here's a picture of the reproduction junk we get to deal with, notice the made in India.

Dave

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Anyone have a source for front engine mounts that aren't junk. I bought a reproduction and the thing fell apart before I even got the engine installed in the car. Plans was to install the engine back in the 49 Wayfarer today but that's not happening. Here's a picture of the reproduction junk we get to deal with, notice the made in India.

Dave

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Doesn't look to be very hard to make,so why not just buy some steel and make one? You could even make it from steel thicker than the original if you want. Looks like a hacksaw and drill will be the only tools you will need.

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I have no way of vulcanizing the rubber to the metal. If I sandwich the rubber and just bolt it together I'm worried that there would be no flex, basically I would have a solid mount. That may create vibration issues.

Thanks Dave

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I have no way of vulcanizing the rubber to the metal. If I sandwich the rubber and just bolt it together I'm worried that there would be no flex, basically I would have a solid mount. That may create vibration issues.

Thanks Dave

I don't know what to tell you,other than the old V-8 Ford mounts weren't vulcanized. They were just had a bolt running through their center that kept them located. These same rubber cushions were used for all the OHV V-8 engine swaps to early fords where the motor mount was in the front.

 

Modern late OHV V-8 into early Ford motor mounts are now side mounts instead of front mounts only because all modern transmissions are aluminum and  have the mounts towards the rear. The older auto and cast iron transmissions had mounts at the front on each side,so there was no "bounching" and cracking transmission cases back then. When the manufacturers went to rear mount aluminum transmissions they had to move the engine mounts further back to take stress off the middle.

 

I may be wrong,but I SUSPECT they only vulcanize the rubber to the mounts in more modern cars is for convenience. It keeps the cushion from getting separated from the mount,and prevents it from being mounted wrong.

 

I hope others will chime in here if they know more about this than I do.

Edited by knuckleharley
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I think I may have found a NOS mount on the Internet, waiting for seller to confirm its not metric threads / offshore junk.

Make sure you specifically ask him if the rubber is dried out or cracked.

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Two years ago I bought a front motor mount from Rock Auto. It has held up fine. I just checked and they still list te part, although i don't know if it is the same manufacturer as the one I bought. It also does not say where it is made.

Thanks I'll check on it

Dave

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summit racing also has it their # is PIO-602018 $8.97 rock auto # is pioneer 602018 I just got my front mount and the rears from rock auto it now says they are out of stock on the front one

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Years ago I rebuilt the motor mounts for my A body V8 using a liquid urethane. It worked well but I don't remember the exact product I used. I know I chose it after doing a little research on different hardness properties. You buy it in liquid form and it cures at room temp. Of course you have to build an appropriate mold, which I made out of plexiglass and sealed with a hot glue gun. The product I used was something similar to this:http://www.smooth-on.com/Urethane-Rubber-an/c6_1117_1147/index.html

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summit racing also has it their # is PIO-602018 $8.97 rock auto # is pioneer 602018 I just got my front mount and the rears from rock auto it now says they are out of stock on the front one

 

Looking at the # on your original one which looks like 2018 and both of those part #s above ending in 2018 I would guess they are all from the same supplier. Hopefully you just got a bad one!

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The vendor I purchased to metric style (2018) from is agreeing to send me a replacement. I have also purchased a NOS mount (insulator). I use which ever one appears to be the best quality. I'm leaning towards the NOS.

Edited by Branded
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The issue with the rubber separating might be my fault, still think the mount shouldn't have separated. The rusty plate didn't allow the rubber to bond is my opinion. Below is the answer I received from the vendor. I'm not bashing him, he actually gave me some good advice on installing the mount/insulator.

These are NOT made to be under TENSION so you are putting the engine in WRONG. The front metal mount bracket is NOT to be hanging from the mount...it will fail every time as it in NOT made to hold weight. You need to bolt this mount to the front bracket with the BRACKET OFF OF ENGINE...lower engine into car...place 2 rear mounts in place hold loosely with bolts. continue to lower front of engine into place...slide front mount bracket into place by first putting the 2 upper motor mount bolts into holes ON ENGINE...DO NOT put bolts on motor mount yet...now...put the 2 U shaped mount bolts through front mount into frame...bolt loosely...now put the bolts on to the front mount.....once the engine is all in adjust engine on rear mounts...and in front AT THE FRAME CONNECTION...NOT THE MOTOR MOUNT!!!!! and then tighten to specs the front U bolts and 2 rear motor mount bolts.

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I got a couple of mounts from Plydo (Neil) on ebay and they are metric.  I have to send them back to him.

 

The real solution is to send the cores to Steele Rubber and they rebuild them with new rubber.  Takes time, costs, but in the end do you really want to take that out again.

 

One thing to know.  SOME of the brackets on the thrust rotation side (Drivers) are not "cleaned up" as good as others.  That part where they were stamped on the top to side and it looks wrinkled. Sometimes if you have a mount that the rubber is a little soft on and allows the thing to rotate a little too much...the two steel mounts contact and you get a an engine vibration.  Don C may remember many years back when he visited I was running that down.  It felt like a idle miss or something.  Turns out I replaced the mount with one redone by Steele, I ground that edge of the upper mount for more clearance, and I was careful with the bolts on the frame rail to make sure that upper bracket was as upright as possible.  It tends to slide a little forward under the engine weight until you get the bolts tight.  Hold the engine with the sling and allow that mount to just make contact...get it good and vertical, then tighten the bolts good then let the engine down that last little bit to compress the front mount.

 

James

Edited by James_Douglas
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Also found this statement he said interesting, mainly the last paragraph

This is NOT a motor mount...it is an INSULATOR...it only holds up the front of the engine...NO torque is transmitted through it. The motor mounts are the thick big rubber with the metal running through it and the large 1/2" bolts going all the way through it on the bell housing. I am sure that you now realize that as this front insulator only has four small 1/4" studs in it NO mechanical link between the top and bottom plates with only a piece of rubber between them...also the front bracket is just sheetmetal...that it is not large enough to be a motor mount.

The rubber does not need to be VULCANIZED as NO force is transmitted through this mount..the mounts are just molded rubber to a metal plate.

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NOS or NORS is always the way to go, if available, otherwise rebuilt original parts. I prefer to keep as much original/NORS, MADE in USA parts as possible. 

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That front mount is subjected to a lot of heavy mass up and down forces not to mention sideways forces too.

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I would venture to guess that all of the originals were securely bonded/vulcanized.  If it were not bonded on at least one surface, what whould keep it from working its way out?  And if one side must be bonded, then they would not have neglected to bond both surfaces.  I should have bought a new one as soon as I saw them available, because back when I put the engine back in my car (1981 or early 1982) I just fit it back together in place, because I couldn't find one available anywhere.  (It had separated.  The car has sat unfinished ever since, so I've never run it yet.)

 

That front engine mount is also more than just "sheet metal".  It is stamped steel, yes, so it IS made of "sheet steel", but heavier than what is commonly known as sheet metal.

Edited by Eneto-55
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That is an interesting response. However I had my engine in and out 2-3 times with the floating power bracket installed as pictured below. I don't recall where I purchased the rubber mount but it was not metric threads.

 

goin_down.jpg

Don,what do you coat your exhaust manifold with to keep it from rusting?

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I remember trying to tear the front horsehoe mount off from the insulator when parting a car out.

I had a hell of a time getting the rubber insulator to tear apart.

Original mounts were bonded extremely well and were good quality rubber.

Not like the India rubber used today.

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