DrDoctor Posted August 1, 2018 Report Share Posted August 1, 2018 (edited) As I’ve mentioned many times (enough so that many may be tired of hearing my experience with this subject), in our ’46 Plymouth I used a Ron Francis Wire Works harness called “Get It Runnin’”, which is designed for a 6v system. One of the best things about it is that it replaces the single glass-tube fuse with a fuse panel with 8 contemporary blade-type fuses. The other great aspect of my experience is with the technical support, which is “top shelf”!!! I didn't want to go along the original route to the rear of the car, as I didn't want to use the additional wire, I didn't want to remove the headliner (in case of any potential maintenance), so I went under the left door sill in a trough I cut into the padding underneath the carpeting. It’s been installed for 5 years, and I’ve never had ANY problems with anything related to wiring. Warmest regards . . . Edited August 1, 2018 by DrDoctor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eneto-55 Posted August 1, 2018 Report Share Posted August 1, 2018 Thanks for that info, DrDoctor. I have seen the different companies listed that make a finished product, have copied down the different names, and looked at their sites, but I have decided to build one myself. Partly because of cost, but also for other reasons, one of which is that I do not want to use wire that is of lower quality than the original, and I haven't seen information regarding which of these manufacturers use tinned wire, if any. (So planning to use marine grade wire.) I've also decided that if I use any woven cloth covered wire at all, I will only do that for the areas that show, like under the hood. (I may decide to do this with an additional protective sheathing - I need to find out what color options there are in these materials, and how the total costs compare.) I may put in a connection point through the fire wall, like many (most?) modern cars do, if I can do so in an inconspicuous manner. If I do this, that would be where I would switch to the other type wire. Thanks again, and the best to you and yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eneto-55 Posted August 13, 2018 Report Share Posted August 13, 2018 Some interesting wiring terminology: I dismantled the headlight assembly, and the terminals are labeled on the bakelite connector housing as: 'Ground' (makes sense), 'Drive' (high beam?), and 'Pass' (low beam?). Question on rebuilding the headlight pig-tail: What are you all using for the grommet where the wires go into the back of the headlight housing? (The whole pig tail is enclosed in a molded rubber sheath - I know I can't reduplicate that.) Thinking of running the wire through a small diameter rugger hose, then use rubber tape to sort of attach it to what ever I can find for a grommet. The hole in the housing is 11/16" diameter. Just wondering if someone has found a good source for a grommet that would work well for this purpose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrDoctor Posted August 14, 2018 Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 Eneto-55, Drive is the low-beam, and Pass is the hi-beam (or so I’m told . . .). As for the grommet, Wichita Trimming handles all kinds of rubber parts and pieces. Give them a call—they’re in Wichita, Kansas. Their address is 343 South Ida Street, and their phone number is 316.264.2284. They’ve always come thru for me. Warmest regards to you . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eneto-55 Posted August 14, 2018 Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 (edited) 15 hours ago, DrDoctor said: Eneto-55, Drive is the low-beam, and Pass is the hi-beam (or so I’m told . . .). As for the grommet, Wichita Trimming handles all kinds of rubber parts and pieces. Give them a call—they’re in Wichita, Kansas. Their address is 343 South Ida Street, and their phone number is 316.264.2284. They’ve always come thru for me. Warmest regards to you . . . Thanks for the heads up about Wichita Trimming. On the 'Drive' & 'Pass' deal, I guess I should test it out. I just thought it would be 'Pass' for lowbeam, since it is the nice thing to do to hit the dimmer switch when passing, so as not to blind the other guy through his mirror. I always try to remember to dim my lights anytime I come up behind someone, because my own eyes are very sensitive to the bright lights of someone sitting on my tail. (If I can start to see a silhouette of the driver projected onto the front of the inside of his car, then I know to dim the lights.) Edited to add (08-14-2018): In looking at the later model wiring diagrams, I noticed that one of the wires going to the headlights is a heavier gauge. I can tell looking at the wires on mine that it is the one that goes to the terminal marked 'Driving'. Wouldn't it be logical that the heavier wire would be more necessary for the high beam? Edited August 14, 2018 by Eneto-55 Add note Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrDoctor Posted August 15, 2018 Report Share Posted August 15, 2018 Eneto-55, Yes, I believe you’re correct. It sounds logical to me, anyway, as the hi-beam takes more amperage than does the low-beam. Regards . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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