Allmyjunk Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 So what does one do about the drive shaft adapting to modern u-joints while I'm doing this. From the back of the transmission, I figured it would be a good time to do all of it. I have a Dana 35 with 355. Gears from a cherokee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rumble48 Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 I have been thinking about a similar swap, and debating 3.55 or 3.73 gears. On the driveshaft you will need to have your shaft modified to match the D 35 yoke...... guestimate 2-300.00. interested to hear how you like it after the change..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 (edited) there is few cut and dry responses for this question, there are a couple threads on this very task in the archives....however, they list only parts number and prices from the area it was performed. Your actual rear mating flange may be different requirement. Constructing a driveshaft usually entails cutting welding and balancing these components as adding slip joints and such will cause for over length and will require cut for correct rear flange. Measuring the shaft for the require length is also done in a specific manner. Choosing a shop to do this work is often not much involved as they are not an abundantly amount of them in one metro area. Suggest that you speak with some rod builders of your area, local parts houses/supply companies..they can often point you in the correct direction. MY local company is a truck repair facility that specializes in larger OTR vehicles..parts, build and such was quick and easy, very low in overall cost and done while I waited...approximately a 1 hour turn around..check with your local NAPA dote, they are usually suppliers to the larger shops and may also be able to point you in the right direction. Edited January 31, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dale Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 Wouldnt you just use the driveshaft that fits the transmission and join it to the driveshaft that fits the differential ? Did you use the whole Cherokee rearend ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allmyjunk Posted January 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 I was thinking of using the front drive shaft out of the cherokee but the trans has a flage that the original shaft bolts to. I know a Toyota and a ford 8.8 have a similar flange that the u joint mounts to just trying to get ideas I did serch on this subject and didn't find what I was looking for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allmyjunk Posted January 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 I have had many shafts cut for my jeep just measure twice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 (edited) so clue us in a bit more on your application....are you still using the original engine and transmission...is the rear axle used still the pattern of the original pinion input flange? Is your goal to eliminate the front yoke of the ball and trunion design? Unless these items are a match to your existing driveshaft, you will need to make some changes. Cut of the rear of the shaft to match you donor axle and weld/balance after ensuring proper phasing or build a new shaft like many with modern slide yoke at the front and then again the proper flange for the axle used. Either way, you will have to determine the proper flanges needed and the correct length of said shaft being built. Even if your rear pinion is of correct pattern...the input yoke to centerline of the axle could come into question for overall length. Edited January 31, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dale Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 (edited) I put a chevy 265 motor with a powerglide in a 47 Plymouth with the existing rearend one time.... The Plymouth driveshaft slid into the Chevy driveshaft and all I had to do is run a bead around it. I was lucky for the slip fit but I dont see where the problem is using the driveshaft the transmission used mating to the Cherokee rearend driveshaft. Edited January 31, 2016 by dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allmyjunk Posted January 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 I want to eliminate the funky drive shaft completely, the front u joint of the current drive shaft is clunking peretty bad and I have 410 gears brake drums that the previous owner round the rivets off and I put new wheel cylinders all around the car. I just got ticked off and decided the cherokee that is sitting in my back yard could contribute it's last good parts to this plymouth, figured it would be around the same money to put the rear end in as it would to rebuild the joints and source drums + be able to get parts anyware Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 I have been thinking about a similar swap, and debating 3.55 or 3.73 gears. On the driveshaft you will need to have your shaft modified to match the D 35 yoke...... guestimate 2-300.00. interested to hear how you like it after the change..... So what does one do about the drive shaft adapting to modern u-joints while I'm doing this. From the back of the transmission, I figured it would be a good time to do all of it. I have a Dana 35 with 355. Gears from a cherokee Look around for a big truck garage in your area that works on dump trucks. If it were me,I'd just use the yellow pages,call around,and then visit the shops in person to look around before picking one. They build and balance driveshafts all the time. You give them a yoke that slides into your transmission,measure the center to center distance because the mounted u-bolts in the front and rear yokes with the front yoke pushed all the way into the trans. Make sure you tell the builder the tranny yoke was seated all the way forward,and he can make you a new driveshaft cut to the correct length that allows for sufficient free play. IMHO,the best thing to do to the rear of the driveshaft is cut the old one off,or just buy it and take it with you if it looks like it will be long enough. You can save more money if all they have to do is cut,weld,and balance. The driveshaft should be pretty cheap from the junkyard because they know they would never sell it. They also either balance them in-shop,or have a machine shop they send them to for balancing. Since they won't even have to take the old one out or put the one in,the price will be pretty reasonable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 I want to eliminate the funky drive shaft completely, the front u joint of the current drive shaft is clunking peretty bad and I have 410 gears brake drums that the previous owner round the rivets off and I put new wheel cylinders all around the car. I just got ticked off and decided the cherokee that is sitting in my back yard could contribute it's last good parts to this plymouth, figured it would be around the same money to put the rear end in as it would to rebuild the joints and source drums + be able to get parts anyware When I was doing my 5 speed Ranger trans swap, I did experimenting with a driveshaft adapter, I made from a piece of aluminum. Made a driveshaft from two driveshaft to get a length I needed. So I had a Ford trans & driveshaft mated to a Plymouth rearend. Worked ok, not balanced for any high speed, but it worked. Next I pulled the Plymouth rear, and installed a Ranger rear, 3.73 ratio. The Jeep or Explorer rear would be a better fit. I made another shaft to get the correct length for this setup. I ended up using an Explorer shaft from a 2 wheel drive, 2 door Explorer, I bought at a Junkyard for $10 or $15. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dale Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 How did the Jeep rear end fit as to wheel width, and bolting to the rear springs, etc ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rumble48 Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Just based on research, both the D35 and the mopar 8.25 used in 90+ Cherokee's are 60" width, same as the 46-8 p18. The spring pads would need to aligned with the p18 springs, and properly angled before re-welding. D35's used in wranglers are less than popular, because they are apt to fail when abused in conjunction with larger tires... which isn't usually a problem in p18's etc.... craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmartin Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 I've got an 8.25 from a Cherokee mocked up in my car right now. I cut the old perches off and welded new ones on. The width is like 1/2" narrower which is negligible. Its a larger diameter tube and the pumpkin is larger. The diff cover has a large lip that can be ground down. The larger tube and different perches will affect ride height so try and match them to remain the same. Diff size is only an issue if you are lowered significantly. I have not approached the driveshaft issue yet. I hope to adapt the stock trans to a typical u-joint type DS. For the D35, try to look for one that is off a stock Cherokee. If its been wheeled, it may have some existing damage that will show up at the worst possible time. Many Jeeps break them in the parking lot, which is how the got such a bad rap. But the damage occurred on the trail days/weeks earlier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Many....many, many Jeeps......never leave the pavement....ever, so look for nicks in rims, wavy wheel well openings and dents and dings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 (edited) So what does one do about the drive shaft adapting to modern u-joints while I'm doing this. From the back of the transmission, I figured it would be a good time to do all of it. I have a Dana 35 with 355. Gears from a cherokee Many late model designs have a flange at the rear of the trans and a u-joint/slip combo that bolts to the flange. The u-joint at the rear axle is 'normal'. Look around and you can see how they are assembled and you should be able to mimic the design or even modify an existing new-car part to fit the trans. https://sp.yimg.com/xj/th?id=OIP.Mf49a04d054de4684589af675a6e16bc8o0&pid=15.1&P=0&w=300&h=300 Edited February 4, 2016 by wayfarer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allmyjunk Posted February 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 So I picked up a drive shaft from a truck with a 3 speed with u joints at both ends so I'm that much closer.. as to the dana 35 it's out of a stock cherokee. In my wrangler locked with 35's on it I never broke anything its all about driving style don't let it hop and a traction bar helps a lot too. I have broken more ford. 8.8 parts of course with the 4.1 transfer case and 5.13 gears mated with a heavy right foot things do break Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allmyjunk Posted February 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 When I said truck I mentioned 54 dodge 1/2 ton pikup with a 3 speed trans must have been light duty pickup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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