49DODGEBOY Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 well it time to sort out some electrical stuff now and it is the one thing I am just not good at. I lost my headlights after sitting for 2 years and in going thru the wiring found an un-connected wire that starts at the brake sensor switch back on the rear brake line and goes up into the engine compartment. Now I have the electrical diagram for my '49 d30 2 door and it says that that wire should be connected to a 30 amp circuit breaker. Anyone know where it is located? It sure is not under the hood. I know that this is not the headlight problem but got to start somewhere. any help greatly appreciated. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 check the location for back/part of the headlight switch itself 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 (edited) Sounds like you are going to need to find a cushion to lay on, and follow the wires away from the ignition switch, or as Plymouthy says, from the headlight sw.. Edited January 4, 2016 by shel_ny 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 1949-50 chryslers have the circuit breakers (2) mounted on the steering column support bracket up behind the dash. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 If you have the wire diagram you should beable to follow the wire and it should show you where it is connected. Rich Hartung Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Hiebert Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 For your headlights, check all the grounding locations first. Can't say how many times I've exhausted myself tracking down a wiring problem, only to have it end up being a bad ground. Or, since your car has been sitting idle for a while, just cut to the chase and check / clean all your grounds anyway. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 Re power your brakelight switch through a new wire with an in line fuse. Pick up power on the battery side of the starter solenoid. Takes the brake light draw out of the general lighting circuit. Takes about 10 minutes. 15 amp fuse is plenty us 12 gauge wire. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 Re power your brakelight switch through a new wire with an in line fuse. Pick up power on the battery side of the starter solenoid. Takes the brake light draw out of the general lighting circuit. Takes about 10 minutes. 15 amp fuse is plenty us 12 gauge wire. Although the brake lights would work just fine, you would not see the power draw through the ammeter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
49DODGEBOY Posted January 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 Re power your brakelight switch through a new wire with an in line fuse. Pick up power on the battery side of the starter solenoid. Takes the brake light draw out of the general lighting circuit. Takes about 10 minutes. 15 amp fuse is plenty us 12 gauge wire. thx Greg I have a hunch this is what someone did already since I found the unconnected wire under the hood....not the dash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 Merle, brake light usage shows on mine by the amp meter showing a positive charge when the brakes are on. So it shows the generator kicking up to replace their draw. I say draw as I have 2 55watt bulbs in the fender lights as well as the center bulb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 I installed a 50 watt bulb for the center brake light but at this time the fender lights are stock 1157's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furylee2 Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 What about the dimmer switch? I've seen several posts here about issues with those. Maybe mash it 15 - 20 times and try the headlights again. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssnowden Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 I was impressed on how much love the Power Probe electrical testing kit got in the "Show your Tools" thread. http://p15-d24.com/topic/22456-show-your-tools/page-21?hl=%2Bpower+%2Bprobe#entry350295 Perhaps it would help find your gremlins? I'm getting ready to rewire mine, so I'm looking for any advantage I can get to keep the gremlins away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
49DODGEBOY Posted January 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 I was impressed on how much love the Power Probe electrical testing kit got in the "Show your Tools" thread. http://p15-d24.com/topic/22456-show-your-tools/page-21?hl=%2Bpower+%2Bprobe#entry350295 Perhaps it would help find your gremlins? I'm getting ready to rewire mine, so I'm looking for any advantage I can get to keep the gremlins away. Well since I work for a tool company, Power Probe happens to be "friends" , so I might have to hook myself up! thanks for the tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 (edited) Yep Corrosion on the dimmer switch contacts can cause enough resistance that lights don't work and fuses blow/breakers trip. As noted above cycling the switch a number of times can clean up the contacts. But is should be on the list of likely suspects. Also check the contacts on the circuit junction block on the radiator support where the headlamp wire slit to feed left and right. Edited January 5, 2016 by greg g 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
49DODGEBOY Posted January 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 wanted to thank everyone for the input. Headlights now working although still dealing with a diming issue at idle. Found a wire off under the dash. Cleaned all the terminal block connections. Dash lights work too. Now onto the back as I have shaved all the original stuff and gone to a 47-48 Chevy taillight (sorry) But have all the hots were they should be should be a smooth re-wire. then it on to the fuel guage / sending unit... thx again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Dimming at idle is somewhat normal as the generator output at idle is reduced. This should be visible on your amp gauge. As RPM's increase so should the charging rate. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lloyd Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Charging rate will be reduced at an idle but don't the battery pick up any slack to keep any accessories (lights) at full amps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 At idle when the generator isn't charging enough, the car is running on battery voltage of 6 volts. above idle the generator puts out more than 6 volts making the lights brighter. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 What is your idle speed? You can bump it up a bit to see if the dimming persists.If it doesn't make any difference in the lights just put it back to recommended rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpollo Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Your car's circuit breaker is a self closing unit mounted behind the instruments between the ammeter and the headlight switch. Often when the headlights fail to light after a long idle period it is the dimmer switch which is at fault. If the dash and tail lights and park lights come on then you can be sure power is at the headlight switch. As mentioned above, check connections including grounds at the lights. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
49DODGEBOY Posted January 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 What is your idle speed? You can bump it up a bit to see if the dimming persists.If it doesn't make any difference in the lights just put it back to recommended rpm. spot on Greg as it sat there idling as I worked on the rear lights I noticed they were brighter....IE as it warmed up the idle increased ever so little and yes the lights went up with it...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
49DODGEBOY Posted January 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 So, knowing that this car is a frankenstein, would anyone like to confirm the factory location to install the temp sending bulb? Mine is screwed into the back corner of the head. correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deathbound Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 Yes, rear drivers side of the head. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
49DODGEBOY Posted January 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 and just in case anyone needs to know, I just bought and installed a couple 12v led license plate studs and installed them on my 6v system. worked like a charm. needed since I shaved the rear of the car. and to be legal 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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