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Body Mounts and Club Coupe Cancer


fedoragent

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Folks,

 

I picked a fine day to stop smoking.  (Kidding, I stopped smoking in '04).  Got my Coupe up on the lift today and saw something horrific.  Three of the body mounts are full of cancer and it shocked the hell out of me that I was driving on that.  So, my guy that I have working on the car says that he can fabricate pieces to replace what is essentially gone.  However, he and I were both wondering if there were replacements that could be bought and just welded in.  Does anyone have any ideas on if this is possible?  If so, does someone sell aftermarket parts?

 

Thanks,

 

FG.

 

 

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FG I had to replace 8 of mine.  I could not find them anywhere.  I found a scrapyard with a coupe and had them cut them out and send them to me.  I got the mounts, and both sides of the rockers from 10" back from the front of the rear wheelwell to the firewall and 18" of floor.  Replaced just about 85% of my coupes cancer.

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FG I had to replace 8 of mine.  I could not find them anywhere.  I found a scrapyard with a coupe and had them cut them out and send them to me.  I got the mounts, and both sides of the rockers from 10" back from the front of the rear wheelwell to the firewall and 18" of floor.  Replaced just about 85% of my coupes cancer.

 

I was fearful of that.  I don't have access to a P15 donor body.  A friend of mine sent me a link to the Plymouth Doctor.  He had this on the website and I'm not quite sure if these are the same parts.  What do you guys think?  

 

Thanks,

 

FG.

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if it was me I'd just make some new ones. They don't look that complicated. Your rusty/rotted ones still look like they have enough meat on them to use as templates. Good luck.

-Chris

 

I wish I had the know how and the skill to do so.  My guy that I'm having do some of this said that it might be a bit cheaper way to go if I found some that he could just weld in.

 

FG.

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It is on the front crossmember.  And I believe that is does bolt to the frame mounts.  At least that is the way I look at it on this image.  Also, I'm trying to figure out if there are really 5 sets of rubber mounts (top and bottom), as that is what I figure on the documents attached.  But since I'm only doing that crossmember (the others have been replaced)...would it only be 2 sets?  What do you guys think?

 

Thanks,

FG.

 

P.S.  Where did that image come from that you posted?

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Edited by fedoragent
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If this place is still open (the PDF catalog is dated 2012) it looks like they'd be a source for just about anything '42-'49 regarding Plymouth sheet metal. Body mounts are pictured toward the end of the catalog. Not sure of the prices.

 

http://www.theplymouthdoctor.com

 

Oops. You'd been alerted to them already. Sorry.  ;)

Edited by GlennCraven
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  • 2 weeks later...

Bad news.  These were NOT the parts.  No one has them.  Plymouth Doctor sent me the parts but they weren't what I needed.   Wayne said that no one makes these parts as the casting die would be too cost prohibitive.  My metal guy has started fabricating the parts today.  Sigh.  Oh well, can't beat a guy for trying.

Edited by fedoragent
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Hi fedoragent, You may have seen posts by this forum member,

              veterantechnic

                      Worthwhile viewing - a standard of workmanship we could only hope to achieve or at the least be affordable to the average guy.

 

 

 
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Hi fedoragent, You may have seen posts by this forum member,

              veterantechnic

                      Worthwhile viewing - a standard of workmanship we could only hope to achieve or at the least be affordable to the average guy.

 

 

 

 

No, I had no idea.  It looks like he fabricated those pieces on the A pillar.  I think that is what my guys might have to do... sigh.  

 

FG.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Gents,  

 

You have been so wonderful to help me.  So, my plight with the body mounts is now...OVER!  I had new ones built.  Ones that are amazingly sturdy and do not feel like a Coke or Pepsi can.  I present to you the change from what was cut out, to the new.

 

Old:

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New:  

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And whilst he was down there, he is replacing the body rubber and has already replaced the motor mounts.  She's going to be a new girl.  Also, a girl with a new Rear Main Seal, Oil Pan Gaskets and new oil.  In other words...my new girl.  

 

However, of course as if to stick her tongue at me, I shut the drivers side door...and the window crank handle popped off.  The pin has gone missing.  :(  I need to find those.  (Mopar 724747)

 

Thanks guys!  Happy New Year!

 

FG.

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The handle pins are .125" in diameter. Just make one. Easy.

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I've made pins with an inner core and an outer sleeve, for installation in misaligned and worn handles.  I can secure the handle with a nail, and work the sleeve in place, and then replace the nail with the inner core (cut from a nail).

 

If I wasn't lazy, I would bring up my posting on it.

 

(Edit: Here's something from my notes:)

Window Cranks and Door Handles:

Fabricated and installed two-piece pins, to ease the installation of the handles.

(The handles are removed by pushing in the spring-loaded escutcheons and pushing out a pin through the handle and shaft.  Some of the handles have elongated holes, which make it difficult to re-insert the pins.)

(For installation, push a long nail through the hole to hold the handle on; then slide a sleeve in place over the nail; then remove the long nail, and install an inner pin in the sleeve, to strengthen it.)   

 

(I'm still looking for something on the nail size and the size of the hardware store model tubing.) 

Edited by DonaldSmith
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Here are some pins on ebay, similar part# to the one you listed, one may be a misprint.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1935-1936-1937-38-1939-1952-1954-CHRYSLER-DODGE-PLYMOUTH-DESOTO-DOOR-HANDLE-PINS-/321963388348?hash=item4af6836dbc:m:mOOVgwpQxLcTqIRRtzA3sqg&vxp=mtr

I think this guy sells at the Long Beach HP swap meet at Vets Stadium.

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  • 3 years later...

hey folks.  I'm replying to this topic hoping that by bringing it back in view it will spawn some more input.  I'm basically having the same problem.  my body mounts weren't too bad but the chassis behind 2 of them was bad.  in removing the mounts to get to the chassis they were not strong enough to survive.  they were cut and bent beyond use.  now I am a decent fabricator and a welder by trade and so far have the chassis repaired to be what I believe is stronger that original.  but before I started the fabbing of mounts I wanted to see what others had done.  hopefully reviving this old thread will spawn some more experiences  on dealing with this.  if you have fabbed up mounts let's see em.  thx.   

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Woodrow, I've asked the same question about a year ago as my 53 body is currently sitting hard on the frame (mounts rusted thru the floor).  I was just looking for the underside of any of the late 40's & early 50's Plymouths or Dodges to see what the originals looked like so I could duplicate them or get close. So hopefully someone out there can point us in the right direction! This is a great community on this forum and there is alot of useful information floating around on it!

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We live just down the Highway from the Plymouth Doctor (Mr. Brandon) and his parts are the the mounts that come off the frame.  You need the mounts off the body.  Mr. Brandon said no one makes the body side mounts anymore.  Your going to have to fabricate them.  I have the same issue but mine are gone all together.  you can see in the photo below.  I probably should have cut the ends off before having the body sandblasted, but that would have only mattered for one or two of them as the others were just gone.  I would be interested to see how you do this as I'll need to figure this out soon too.  Right now I think we plan to fix as much of the floor as possible before placing the body back in place and measuring for the months from there.

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Quote

 

I have it done.  I couldn't find the mounts to purchase so I fabbed them up.  not hard to do if you can well but if you cant weld then it will probably cost you.  what I did was mi.iced the front mounts , sort of.  I cut away the rib running along the bottom of the floor and then added a piece back in to replicate what was cut out.  then I fabbed a generic mount and used rubber insulators.  a good insulator, and cost effective as well, is to take a roller from a boat trailer and cut it to the length you need.  add a bolt and you're done.  

 

 

 

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Edited by woodrow
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