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lug studs


my48stake

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  • 4 weeks later...

Okay, tried the vendors on the resource links page and no luck.  Also checked the local bolt & screw distributor with no luck.  The only thing I've found is through LMC Truck et. al. who have stud kits for Chevy and Ford of this era but I don't know if they're the same.  Any other suggestions before I roll the dice on a Ford or Chevy set?

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Napa online says these are for a 1948 b1d.

http://m.napaonline.com/parts/PartsDetail.aspx?k=NDP6411554_0500118039

However I own a p23 so I'm not too sure. Vpw looks like a good bet too. http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/pdf/parts/13wheels.pdf I'm sure the truck guys will steer you in the right direction.

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https://dcmclassics.com/brake-parts/558-br-277-lug-bolt-lh-each.html

 

Not sure if these are the correct ones for your '48 B1D

 

Napa online says these are for a 1948 b1d.

http://m.napaonline.com/parts/PartsDetail.aspx?k=NDP6411554_0500118039

However I own a p23 so I'm not too sure. Vpw looks like a good bet too. http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/pdf/parts/13wheels.pdf I'm sure the truck guys will steer you in the right direction.

 

Those are both lug bolts for 1/2 ton trucks only. He is looking for studs for a 1 ton truck.

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???? the original question asked about studs and nuts?   Not on a Dodge.. they use bolts and threaded drums.  If he has broken a bolt off in the drum, then he has more problems than just getting a new bolt.  

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make sure and ask for the correct diameter of stud. my B3B had the right side with the studs post-6005-0-94656900-1450927161_thumb.jpgpost-6005-0-59314100-1450927165_thumb.jpg

I can only guess they are smaller diameter than the 3/4 or 1 ton.

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Take a good look at the condition of the drums before getting excited about studs and nuts.  Drums in good condition for the 1 tons are extremely hard to come by.   Jeff B did some work on his drums fitting new studs since new exact replacements may not and didn't seem to be available at the time.  If you find the need to rework drums to get good studs, might as well do it on drums you can use.

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The drums are in great shape.  My sons just damaged the studs turning them the wrong way (didn't realize they were left hand thread on the drivers side.)  I'll give the powerwagon folks a call after Christmas and see if they have the right size.  Thanks everyone for the input!

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If you're going to beat or press the old studs out of the hub/drum, make sure that you support the drum from the inside around the stud that you're removing.   These can be so stubborn to remove that you can damage collapse the drum.  I sold one to a member on here a couple of years ago.  When I needed rear studs on mine, NAPA wasn't able to come up with an exact match.  I bought a box of studs that had the round flange head w/o the cutaway to fit around the inner hub and had to grind the cutout into the head of each stud.    Mike

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  • 3 years later...

I studied the parts manual, and it appears the B-1 lug studs and lug nuts were revised, as were the hubs...There is a part number break for the B-2s, and the B-2 parts truck I have is similar to the B-1s I have.  My B-3 has different sized lug studs and lug nuts.  Searching the internets, I found these possible replacement parts for the later parts that should be readily available:

 

     Lug Stud, Left:  Mopar 1273555

     Lug Stud, Right:  Mopar 1273554

     Lug Nut, Left:  Mopar 1273557

     Lug Nut, Right:  Mopar 1273556

I spoke with a sales rep at Van Horn Truck Parts about the availability of the LH stud, and he said that there are 20 on his shelf and 1700 at his supplier...how'bout that :cool:

Edited by JBNeal
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On 2/24/2019 at 2:20 PM, Jeff Balazs said:

Can't say for certain on 1 tons but my 3/4 ton had 9/16" studs originally. 9/16" studs were not available from any source. I ended up getting 5/8" studs and bored out the holes in the wheels. I believe Dorman was the source I ended up using. Was a PITA but it all worked out.

Jeff

my one ton were/are 5/8" studs

just to make it more confusing, (cause that's what I do :))  I replaced my bias tires with radials and needed the longer 2-1/2" studs in the rear. (found at my local "ma & pops" auto parts)

(5 o'clock = original stud, 9 o'clock =2" stud, 11 o'clock = 2-1/2" stud)

1994780014_studs-Copy.JPG.1242abc1bfad9fcb18b7513e091b9e8a.JPG

I looked for 2-1/2" reverse threads and didn't find any at the time. so I just clipped the heads like Mike mentioned and ground down the "nubbin" (shhh, don't tell anyone)

stud.JPG.7d453fc417776187c881c95342c14178.JPG

Edited by Brent B3B
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I did some checking, saw some things, re-read the parts manual, and looks like I need to do more research.  I recalled having a conversation back in 2003 with an old parts guy who filled me in on the difficulty of replacing the busted LH stud on my '49.  He said that style of stud had a smooth shank and required a special tool to set the heads so they would lock in place.  I went to pull a drum off my '48 parts truck, but they will need more persuading during daylight hours.

I compared lugnuts, and they are not the same.  Measuring stud diameters, the early studs are 9/16", the later studs are 5/8".

So it looks like I'll need to pop out that busted stud to figure out the dimensions of the B-1 hub and the stud...but at least I found a source that might be helpful :cool:

20190227_191551.jpg

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I had to get out The Persuader to pop the drum off of the shoes it was hanging up on, but eventually wiggled it off and cleaned around one of the studs...I could then see the factory staking of the stud that I had heard about.  I rigged a tool to hold the hub so the press could pop out the stud without damaging the drum.  And POP it did as I pumped up that press jack until that stud broke loose...had to press it all the way out, and examining the hub bore, it was as clean as the stud shank.

20190301_191408.jpg

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20190301_191209.jpg.a9b4c4abcd3b9a6b9d8405cf6e0c2b57.jpg

 

The stud has two impressions on each side of the shank, I am unsure if a special punch is used to hammer over part of the hub though as I could not see any marking on the hub face.  The clipped head seats against a surface on the hub so that looks like that would hold the stud from rotating.

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20190301_191318.jpg.83d2a9d4732bfb4c429703e83e7931aa.jpg

 

The hub stud bore averaged 0.624".

The stud shank diameter averaged 0.623" at its maximum, and the length is about 13/16".  The stud length is about 2-1/8".

I reckon the tight shank fit means to me that each stud was carefully pressed in.

Now I clearly see how later B-series have a different stud that does not supercede the earlier production...later studs and nuts could possibly fit the early hubs if the hub stud bores are opened up to 0.626", which is easier said than done :cool:

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