Suburban, 53 Plymouth

[pflaming]

10 of the valves are removed. One remaining is up 2" the other maybe 3/4" . Jerry, yes. Question, where is that stub and why did it break? May learn moe with the pan off.

[pflaming]

Update: (1) Jerry, I was wrong, no valve stem is broken, (2) all are removed now, it took a crowbar to put upward pressure on the valve while I turned it to come out. (3) viewing the stems from the bottom up, at the 1/2" mark, the stems are smaller for one inch then the same to the top. Stems 2-3,6-7,10-11 have the smaller stem area. I do not remember the valves on my truck 218 to be like that. The two that came our hard are # 8 & 11.  Good news is that the cylinder walls are nice and smooth with a small ring at the top which should clean up nicely. My I-pad is in for repair for I would submit pictures. 

 

The valve seat cylinders/ports/? have a LOT of crud, the two valves that came out, those are worse and the valve sleeve for # 8 has a shoulder burned or broken off.  

 

Since one freeze plug was partly open, what could that mean? Frozen water, weak / rusty plug, ???? 

 

Pan is off, very little sludge in the bottom, so that is encouraging. Since it rotates nicely, and the cylinder walls are smooth, I'm going to work the valves, reassemble everything and start it up.  

 

FISHING REPORT WAS FAVORABLE THIS MORNING and I have grease on my hands!  

Edited April 6, 2016 by pflaming

[casper50]

I'd change all the freeze plugs now.

[pflaming]

Freeze plugs will be new. I have a very good water distribution tube puller. I shot the steam into that tube for quite some time and repeatedly.  Back here at the shop I could push that tool all the way into that tube which is encouraging.

 

I have some tight valve guides and some rough valve seats, so need a reamer and a grind stone.  (Two more tools lost in the fire!). 

 

To be continued. 

Edited April 7, 2016 by pflaming

[pflaming]

Made two appointments today, the first for an eye exam tomorrow and then Tuesday next week to get the valves ground. Add $90 to the expense. So no more engine work this week. The bottom pic shows the worst valve. The best shop in town will do all 12.

Edited July 18, 2018 by pflaming

[DJ194950]

Looks like to replace a seat or two plus all valve guides! Not hard to do or big expense.  Maybe some valves?

[pflaming]

Carbs, the short one came with the over drive engine. Is it a better carb?  I think the short carb has an automatic choke.  So tonight I have some research to do. Shorter possibly because of lower hood. The bronze tag has this number on it # 26048   M7. OPS, recall when It came off hard? Well I broke the bottom casting so . . .  The middle carb came from the engine i'm working on, so all's well. 

I

 

DJ, the shop where the work will be done, can do that so we will do it up right. The owner learned the business from his father so he can be old school when he needs to be.  TKS for the eyes. 

Edited July 18, 2018 by pflaming

[Desotodav]

It's good to see you making progress Paul. I hope all goes well with your eye exam.

Just as a matter of interest... what's the model numbers of the carby's stamped on the horn?...

 

[pflaming]

Desoto Dave: Numbers are D6H2 on both.  One has an additional stamp + BO or  BU.  Lots of work to do but the suburban is somewhat of a unique model and becoming very popular here on the left coast.  One of the carby's came from the engine I'm rebuilding so it will go back on..  With two carbs available, dual carbs is tempting but research says all the trouble to do such is more bing than bang so will not do dual carbs.

[pflaming]

I'm examining the manifold. The insides look very good, but are of course carboned up. Is there a way to clean that out or is that an unneeded exercise?

I have three sets, will use the one on the far right. I do not recall where the one on the far left came from. The one with the port on the end.

Edited July 18, 2018 by pflaming

[pflaming]

Update: getting things clean for detail repair. I had to drill out two twisted off manifold bolts yesterday, as you know, hard work. Tomorrow new valves

Before after some initial wire wheel work, prep before painting.

.

Edited April 13, 2016 by pflaming

[pflaming]

I hauled the block in to the shop this morning, was told expect early next week. Call came in at 2:00 pm, no problem, just had a spare hour so anytime! So 20 minutes and $78.00 later it was loaded and now it's back. Should improve the compression!

 

 

 

 

Head was not square, so $50 and a day later, square now it's shaved some, more compression, Salt Flats here we come!. Picked up head bolts and washers today, another $25. 

 

Review: $80 + $50 + $25 = $155.00 and the "beat goes on" !! Next week reassemble, rebuild the carb, new points in the distributor, hot wire and start it!   That's when the music " . . . begins the begeen"!

 

Spent the morning watching the grand kids jump at a trackmeet, both took 2nd place in their class.

 

Then mid afternoon, relearned how to install those small clips on the end of the valves, that is a tedious job with no room for error. Got one in then supper, will finish tomorrow afternoon. So many little things involved in every area of rebuilding an old vehicle and I'm not restoring, just returning it to a safe,drive able vehicle. Goal is to have the engine running by next Saturday. I am aware that others can do it much faster, but that's not my concern. 

 

Monday morning

 

It was mentioned, have I checked if the block is square. I have and it is yet  I contacted my machinist. He has many years experience in such. He stated that these large old blocks do not warp, other things go first, like a head gasket or . . .

 

He also suggested I release the tappets because with newly ground valves and valve seats they will likely be tight and could make it harder to install the valves.  Nice to know. 

 

Monday afternoon: 

 

I got me a GOOD valve compression spring and now the valves are in a cold adjusted to .10. I had it on its side on a good stand, so much easier, yet a tedious job. Happy that is now done.  Getting ready to install the head and manifolds in the morning. 

  

 

(to be continued)

Edited April 19, 2016 by pflaming

[pflaming]

The progress is stated above. I'm now down to a "clean" block. Yet I find it hard to believe that after a degreaser cleaner, then steel  brush, cleanup with kerosene,  a final going over with a wire wheel on my drill motor and finally a wipe down with lacquer thinner, that there is no "oil " in the pores of that block.

 

What is the last go over prior to prime and paint. I do not want to see the paint peel off!  Maybe pictures tonight. 

 

This is not good exercise for 78 year old  legs. 

[Reg Evans]

Paul,  I use brake kleen in a spray can.  It'll dissolve and blow the remaining gunk away.

[pflaming]

It's about ready for paint. Just a few small items left. Took Reg's suggestion and got some parts cleaner, will use it just prior to painting. Lots of work this way, but got more time than money.

Couldn't sleep, so coffee time and planning time.

Edited July 18, 2018 by pflaming

[Branded]

I used Rustoleum self etching primer on my block. Hope it helps, regardless it needs to be oil free for anything to stick. Keep up the progress.

[pflaming]

I used a parts cleaner, then an self etching paint with 500 degrees heat resistance, so should be a take.

Edited July 18, 2018 by pflaming

[Reg Evans]

That looks good paul !

Hey, how much for a dozen red roses ?

[pflaming]

Roses!, I'm afraid to respond to that! How about a glass of wine and some cheese!  LOL

[Jeff Balazs]

That looks good paul !

Hey, how much for a dozen red roses ?

You just have to play your cards right......

[RobertKB]

Paul, to avoid getting paint on parts that are not normally painted, like the input shaft, I just take some wide masking tape and cover those areas. Just saying. Tranny looks good.

Edited April 21, 2016 by RobertKB

[Reg Evans]

Geeeeees Paul.....they were for my wife !

Say....when are we leaving for Broke Back Mountain anyway ?

Edited April 21, 2016 by Reg Evans

[Dave72dt]

I got a cheap roll of aluminum foil for masking some of those irregular shapes. Faster and easier than paper and tape in some places and doesn't float around like plastic can.

[pflaming]

" . . . when are we leaving for Broke Back Mountain . . ." Hey what happens at the BBQ stays at the BBQ! Tim's rules, and TIM RULES![/

Edited April 22, 2016 by pflaming

[pflaming]

I painted the block this afternoon. Nothing creative just another silver 218. I considered other colors but had to go silver with black accents and a touch of chrome.

Edited July 18, 2018 by pflaming