Suburban, 53 Plymouth

[pflaming]

Update: in a couple days I will reinstall the brake master cylinder and pedals. Others have gutted the stock MC and extended the push rod to work a Cherokee dual chamber MC. I believe I can fab a mount to mate the two cylinders but a picture of how someone has already designed one would be greatly appreciated.

[pflaming]

To those of you who have used the EZ Wiring kit. (1) what did you use for the backup light switch, (2) The ammeter is not included in the wiring, it is optional to use it, directions supplied, so did you bi pass or wire through. If you bypassed did you just leave the gauge in the cluster but unconnected or did you put a picture of Don Coatney in that space? LOL Working now on details, wire by wire. 

[DJ194950]

Paul, for the backup light switch why not just use the original one on the transmission? . It screws in place of the plug of the trans. on the driver side about in the middle, just behind the side plate for the shifters, if you don not already have on in place. It's the same location whether on the std. 3 spd. or the r-10 OD trans. Just takes a hot lead and a wire back to the lights. Most likely wire portion connections also on the new wiring diagram.

 

Not the switch per Se.

 

Best,

 

DJ

Edited August 3, 2016 by DJ194950

[Plymouthy Adams]

another cat out of the bag, now everyone is going to know about that switch location.....

[pflaming]

Update: 1. To find the print on the wires, I found that when I wind the wire around my hand so that I am looking at six or more wires I can find the words quite quickly, 2. EZ Tech told me he can wire a car in three hours, I find that very hard to believe, 3. I'm keeping the mechanical oil and temp gauges, to me it's important to know temp and pressure live time, 4. For me the car wiring is much more involved than the truck, 5. I hate electrical, it's the most challenging thus the most frustrating, 6. So I'm not rushing it, when it gets to me I get some parts to clean and paint which seems to unravel my mind. To be continued!

[pflaming]

Update: yesterday I purchased an alternator, an eight blade 16" electric fan, a 98 Cherokee master cylinder with the proportioning valve, a 98 Cherokee rear axle with disc brakes and 3:55 and its sway bar, and an A/C compressor for $400.00. Some of that I need to complete my wiring exercise. My parts source is a friend who owns a salvage yard. He knows what I need and when a quality salvage car comes in he saves the parts I need.

Yes, I'm still at it.

[pflaming]

Update and question. I wanted to paint my dash with satin black paint but always get a sandpaper finish, I fresh sanded smooth two times to no avail. Then I painted a different part with semi gloss and the result was smooth and shined. Is satin black different or is it me?

[casper50]

is the gloss and the satin the same brand?  If not, it might not be compatible with your primer.  If the same, I have no idea.

[pflaming]

I've asked silly questions before so . . . I am very close to starting my engine. The manual reads: at low altitudes, I'm at 300 ' asl, time at top dead center plus 2 degrees on the '53 /54 models, my engine is a 55.  So I take this to say that the crank shaft pulley should (1) be set at + 2 degrees then (2) set the points accordingly. This for start up, then fine tune with timing light or  . .  several methods. Do I understand this correctly? 

 

Oh I should add, cylinder six (6) to be in the up position. 

Edited August 9, 2016 by pflaming

[Niel Hoback]

Set the point gap first, then set the timing after its running.

[Dave72dt]

I'm assuming you're talking about static timing. Point gap should be set first, then your +2, then rotate the distributor so the point just open. Remember to rotate the distributor in the same direction the rotor turns first, then back it up so the points just start to open. That will put you on the front side of the cam lobe where you want to be.

[Dave72dt]

Six and one will both be up.  Rotor needs to be pointing at the cylinder that's on compression.

[Dave72dt]

I call satin somewhere between semigloss and flat.  You may be spraying too light of coats or too far  away or it may simply be too hot.  Try spraying in the evening or early morning.

[pflaming]

Dave, tks for the heads up on the static timing. And you are dead on on the  paint, it was afternoon and I was not shooting at a 90 degree angle. I just did a quick sand to break the paint surface and now will repaint. It's tough being a novice, even tougher when you think you are not a novice.  

 

GO USA, wow those swimmers and gymnastic girls, it almost hurts my muscles to see them flex as they do. 

[pflaming]

out of curiosity I pulled the drivers side front wheel drum this afternoon. The shoes are like new, the drum's inner surfece is smooth, and the cylinders are dry. Interesting. This car must have been in decent shape when it was parked. 

[pflaming]

Will have pictures next week. All nearly hard wired and ready to test/debut. Had another bit of luck yesterday, I looked closely at the exhaust pipe and found it to be usable. Will remove and inspect closely and I got a nice muffler from my salvage yard friend for $10. I discovered the rear axle is a 3:73 so will not have to replace that, saved another $300. So with brakes good, (400 for discs), rear axle good, (300), and exhaust pipe good, (150) my expenses just dropped $850 and I will save all of two weeks work. 

[pflaming]

Update: Things, things, things,  There are just so many little things that need to be removed, cleaned, checked and replaced the time just evaporates. My truck would not start, so it was high time to get that running and out of the back shop into the house garage. I found some severed wire connectors but then could not get the starter to turn over. SO I removed it, its a car starter, and swapped it into my suburban engine. Put power to it and it works like a charm. Could it have been jammed? Well back in then find out.  

 

New thought, I have a set of chrome rally wheels and moon caps. But they are 7" wide at the rim's edge and so are very close to the rear fender wells. Is anyone running rims this wide. They came with the car but they may just be rollers. I have a complete set of 15" stock rims with cap clips and maybe go that route.  

[Desotodav]

It's always good to see you making progress Paul.

I have been meaning to ask... did you get the left-front chassis rail straightened out? I haven't seen any comment since the photos at post # 252 on page 26.

[pflaming]

Today swapped some vent Windows for a nice foursome of dog dish caps. Put fuel and fire to the engine and got some very sharp backfires. So got fuel and spark so now work on the timing.

Edited May 28, 2017 by pflaming

[pflaming]

In my first attempt to start the engine, what occurred was a sharp backfire through the carb. So I did some research. "A faulty ignition system is a possible cause of a engine backfire. For engines to run efficiently, the spark plugs have to ignite the air and fuel at the right time. Incorrect timing can lead to the fuel being ignited before the manifold intake valve closes, causing a backfire through the carburetor or exhaust."

Photos show my Hotwire setup. Once the engine is running, I then can install the doghouse and finish the wiring.

So tomorrow will double check everything timing related including the plug wires / fireing order.

Edited May 28, 2017 by pflaming

[RobertKB]

Sounds like your distributor is out 180 degrees. Been there and done that.

[pflaming]

Start up, up date: A couple of the wires were crossed, but another problem, I did NOT have a voltage resister between the switch and the coil. not good.

 

In the process I discovered one of my manifold bolts was not tight, It would not tighten so I removed it t o find it to be an incorrect bolt. For some reason I looked in that hole with a good light and noted that the manifold seems to be off just enough to cover part of the block hole. I think I know the answer but I'm going to release all the manifold bolts, put this one in and then re-torque in an pattern similar to the head. I do not think those manifold tabs like much angular pressure.

[pflaming]

Once the engine is running, then brakes. This idea I got here on the forum. I will mount a. ' 97 Cherokee MC behind the stock MC and extend the push rod through the gutted OE MC. The picture shows the mount bar.

Edited June 6, 2017 by pflaming

[pflaming]

Houston, I've got a problem. I twisted off a manifold bolt when disassembling, and did not get a good center punch so the drill out left me with an off pattern bolt. Yet the holes  being some what oversized allowed reassembly, so I thought. I put water in the radiator today and discovered one bolt gone.  Looking into the hole the threads in the block are unthread able so off with themanifold tomorrow. If I cannot start all bolts, I think I will take the manifold to my machinist friend and drill out one hole so all bolts will start,  am I thinking correctly. I know that if a manifold is not squarely attached, something will snap. Cast iron has no flexibility. 

 

[pflaming]

August 29, last post wow, 8 weeks, gone by. Yet been busy. So many small pieces that need to be cleaned, treated, and painted or powder coated, takes a lot of time as you all  know. Then my navel popped out like a purple walnut in a field of red. SO.... surgery. Now, surgery on the navel, which I deemed minor is NOT minor. The  surgery is but not the recovery. Been 10 days now and just able to lift anything above 5 #'s. The discomfort started in my lungs, then moved down to my ribs, then my kidneys and is now in my lower back. But I think its about over.

But getting a lot of little things done. Today rims to clean and paint, items  to salvage from my donor suburbans, and a good scrub down of the rear cabin. Later this week will salvage the seats and start planning how to reupholster therm. Later will salvage the AC components, including the portion of the firewall that has the mounts to be cut and pasted into the suburban. So lots of fun. Stay tuned.

Edit: I just steamed cleaned four 15" Plymouth rims, little things that need attention. Three of them are 4 1/2 at the bead and one is 5 1/4. Darn, can't have that. Should I look for another 4 1/2" or a matching 51/4 ". for the rear set?

Edited October 26, 2016 by pflaming