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Daily driver.........first impressions.


Jeff Balazs

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I had a beeper connected to mine. It was quite annoying but I never forgot to turn them off. I finally got too annoyed and disconnected it. I'm in a better habit of turning them off now but considering putting in an indicator light in the upper left side of the windshield header. Just haven't got a round tuit yet.

Merle

 

Jeff, don't do it...After a while it does become second nature..like Merle suggests and one less beep is one less beep,,

 

it's a noisy world,

 

Hank  :)

 

P.S. It's having a protcol when leaving the truck that you have to be concerned about but a fully charged battery will blink your directionals for about an hour or more (least my Optima does) then you pray when you get in the cab.

Edited by HanksB3B
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Hank;

You are correct it is a noisy world. This is one of those things that can probably be handled several different ways.

I think my blinkers only operate when the ignition switch is in the on or accessory position.

 

It takes a while to get used to driving one of these daily. I am still getting used to the position and feel of some of the controls. I find I have to think more than I would about stuff like the foot starter. The other morning I stalled it when it was still cold and it was dark. I reached for the ignition switch before it dawned on me that this wasn't going to do anything.  :) No a big deal as there was no one around.....but in traffic it needs to be more automatic. Little stuff like that makes me want to change it to be what I am used to. If that makes sense? And because of the traffic around here and the fact that I am still getting used to driving this truck I feel like I have to plan every lane change. Driving one of these trucks is not at all like a modern "point and squirt" car. But then you already know that.  ;) I got in my Wife's Honda the other day and it felt like I was driving a go cart by comparison.

 

Jeff

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Perhaps it was because my '33 Plymouth was my only car for a few years back when I was young and I drove it a lot. I find that the instant I get in it everything feels right and (relatively) easy to operate. Non-synchro transmission, foot starter, huge turning radius, non-power brakes with tiny drums, position of the controls, etc. but I don't have to think about all that when driving, it just happens.

 

Jump into the Prius and it is like a switch in my brain is toggled. That too requires no thinking, controls are just where I expect them, etc.

 

I'd give yourself a little more time to get used to the controls and how it handles, etc. before deciding to change things to "what you are used to."

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Tod;

You are probably right.........it is just going to take some time. I've never had anything with a foot starter before. A few cars with starter buttons but that is a different animal. No big deal on initial start . Just didn't feel natural when it stalled. :mellow:

 

Tomorrow I will put the 160 thermostat back in it and see if that makes any difference to how warm it runs in this heat. If it helps great .... if it doesn't then I am going to order the high effeciency radiator and be done with it. There has been no problem at all in the early mornings with just the mechanical fan. In the late afternoons even with the aux. electric fan going it is getting up to 200 or a bit hotter. And that is only a 5 mile drive.

 

Jeff

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Ok so 160 thermostat is back in it for a week of testing, We will see if it really makes much of a difference.

 

Another little item that needs some attention is a breif hesitation off idle. It isn't real bad but it would be better to drive if I can get it to go away, The carb I have on it now was like new when I got it. I had the top off to soak the accelerator pump leather and set the float level. Otherwise it is as I got it. Maybe a speck of dirt? Not sure what else to look for, Any ideas would be appreciated,

 

Jeff

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I'm not exactly sure how this works, yet a friend , a mechanic since he was a kid, reversed wires 5&6, then revved the engine to make it back fire a couple of times. He then put them back per normal and the engine ran smoother. I asked why the exercize, he said a good backfire can/ will often blast debris out the carb, I,e, poor mans tune up.

This exercize is in response to the question, could there be a speck of dirt in my carb, if so then a back fire might dislodge it and blow it out.

How true is his theory?

Edited by pflaming
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Ok so 160 thermostat is back in it for a week of testing, We will see if it really makes much of a difference....

 

Jeff

 

I run a 180 degree hi-flow thermostat in my 52 truck Jeff. I drove the truck to a car show today (will start a thread with photos later) which was about an hour drive each way. The earlier drive saw the temp gauge sit steady on 160 degrees, but the weather was a bit hotter on the way home (82 degrees in your talk) so the temp gauge sat steady on 165 degrees all the way home. I am a strong believer of running thermostats in our engine's.

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Hi Davin;

Yes I would never run without one. Does way more harm than good. I am giving the 160 thermostat a try for a week or so to see if it helps. I just wish it was only getting up to 82 here.......I am pretty sure it could handle that. A week or so back it was about that warm when the day was starting. :angry:

 

I have a tendancy to want to overbuild stuff like this. When it comes to cooling systems I don't think that is all bad. Much rather go with something I know is going to handle whatever I throw at it instead of something that is marginal. I have always been able to get other trucks to be trouble free in this regard and I don't see why this one should be any different. Besides having to constantly watch a temp gauge is not my idea of a great driving experience. One of the things I would like to do with this truck is to visit Death Valley and do some camping with my youngest daughter. It needs to be pretty much bulletproof before I take that on.

 

Jeff

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Many years in the past my family and two others went to Death Valley but always did so over Easter week when it was still cool enough to enjoy!

 

Drive it, watch the temp. gauge less and enjoy the fruits of your work!  :)

 

DJ

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Hey DJ;

It will definitely be during the winter months. No need to push the envelope right now. :D

I used to have to do field work out in the desert all the time. Spent a very hot August doing construction recon for a fiber optics line from Yuma past the Salton Sea to Redlands back in the 80's. 114 degrees by 9am most days. I well remember driving into Brawley for a new water pump one day. 117 and no shade to change it in. Dangerous times......no cell phones and working out of a motorhome parked by the UPRR near Glamis. Mojave greens and sidewinders were everywhere when the sun went down.

 

Jeff

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After reading this thread up to this point im actually starting to look forward to the idea of trying to get my truck to the point that it could be occasionally Daily Driven alongside my Chevy C10 and Honda minivan..

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It is only a daily driver if you drive it every day. :P

 

If i could get mine to a point it was reliable enough to do so..it would probably be cycled in between the other two...i usually drive the Chevy during the day and the van at night...mostly because of the exhaust on the chevy being a little loud....same kind of restriction on my B1 too though thanks to it being straight piped.

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WOW imagine that I have all these cars and none as a daily driver... :)

What can I say Tim? Daily to me means daily......not occaisionally or when one feels like it. Or when it happens to be running.

I don't have another car or truck so this is what I have to work with. It has to be good enough to go every day.

 

Jeff

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OK then daily commuter. I didn't go anywhere yesterday either.

The point of this thread is to highlight some of the details and mods that may require attention if you want to use one of these trucks as daily transportation in a congested area like mine. Much of what I need to consider may not apply if you live and travel in a rural area. I would say that a well built stock truck is probably going to be just fine on a lightly used two lane country road. That is definitely not the case here in my opinion. Here stalling in traffic and even holding it up much is just asking for problems........and your brakes? well they had better be in tip top shape. Ain't no one going to cut you much slack in this area. They are all in too much of a hurry.

 

Jeff

Edited by Jeff Balazs
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I'm not sure going to a 4 row will help your temp issue that much if you already have a heat soaked engine compartment. All your sound insulation is also a heat barrier, as you well know.  All the heat you are transferring from the water into the air via the radiator is going into the engine compartment itself and you've blocked off a large portion of it for heat to escape.  If you have the filler pans at the base of the engine installed, you might try removing them.  My next step would be adding some louvers to the side panels.  Either of those two steps would not add much, if any noise to the passenger area.  Lastly start removing some of your insulation from the hood.  It's often not the actual noise the engine makes but the harmonics in the sheet metal.  Strips of insulation can work as effectively against harmonics as complete coverage.

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Dave;

I am not sure what the filler panels are you make reference to? There are no panels between the engine and the frame on my truck. I do have the firewall and floor boards insulated. As far as I am concerned it needs to be that way........the interior of the cab should not be part of the cooling system. I have thought about venting the inner fender panels to the wheel well. No doubt the insulated hood isn't helping anything but I am not sure it is a cause. The funny thing about all this is that it can sit and idle with the hood closed for a real long time without heating up. It only seems to act up when it is under a load and the air temps outside are hot. This is one of the primary reasons why I think a more efficient radiator might be a good solution. In the morning commute the engine barely gets up to operating temp when I arrive at the shop. But then it is cooler and all down hill.

 

Jeff

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Most of those filler panels have been discarded years ago for ease of  engine service and never replaced.  I think Mark has them on FEF. Maybe its the cars that have them  and none were ever on  trucks.  I thought I saw a post on them a long time ago.  I agree,  the firewall and floorboards are not part of the cooling system.  The hood insulation may be a factor in the heating issue or it may not. but it stands out as a difference between your truck and similar trucks that are not having the issue.

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Most of those filler panels have been discarded years ago for ease of  engine service and never replaced.  I think Mark has them on FEF. Maybe its the cars that have them  and none were ever on  trucks.  I thought I saw a post on them a long time ago.  I agree,  the firewall and floorboards are not part of the cooling system.  The hood insulation may be a factor in the heating issue or it may not. but it stands out as a difference between your truck and similar trucks that are not having the issue.

Dave you could be right about the insulation on the hood. It is really hard to say.

I don't have a  way to truly evaluate how well the radiator is working other than the way I am trying. And you would need to test several in the same conditions in order to say for certain that one works better than another. I do know that in the past I have fitted different vehicles I have owned with desert cooler type radiators and they all ran at very stable temps year around and no matter what sort of load I put on them.

 

Jeff

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What is a desert cooler type radiator? Some sort of evaporative cooler? I have often wondered how a water mister in the front of a radiator would work in dry (as in very low relative humidity) climates? Swamp cooler effect. Evaporative condensers are very common in industrial refrigeration applications.

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Dave you could be right about the insulation on the hood. It is really hard to say.

I don't have a  way to truly evaluate how well the radiator is working other than the way I am trying. And you would need to test several in the same conditions in order to say for certain that one works better than another. I do know that in the past I have fitted different vehicles I have owned with desert cooler type radiators and they all ran at very stable temps year around and no matter what sort of load I put on them.

 

Jeff

 

From a Thermodynamics standpoint (engineer thinking her so watch out), ANYTHING that holds heat in a system will cause temps to rise.  So YES, I'd say your insulated hood it at least PART of the problem.  Metal is a GOOD conductor of heat.  The MORE avenues you have to let heat escape, the better things will be.

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