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36 dodge smoking white and bad


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Hello I'm new to the forum so this is also my intoduction. I'm Patrick. I'm the third owner of a 1936 dodge LC pickup. I bought the truck last September. The truck had been sitting since 1974. 20 years inside and 20 years outside. The truck is in "running when parked" condition so that was a real plus for me. I understand it was a daily driver that was simply parked when the owner bought a bigger truck. When I bought it the motor was stuck. I got it unstuck a year ago and got it running yesterday. I put fresh oil in it, disassembled and cleaned the carb, filed the points and checked the gap, put new plugs in it, fresh gas, new battery and with a little work it fired up yesterday. Im very pleased and excited to get it running however after running it for about 15 minutes it continues to smoke white smoke very badly. Its not the white dissipating kind. It fills up the whole neighborhood. The motor seems to purr really well but Im unsure what is causing the smoke and which direction to go from here. Any help would be more than greatly appreciated. Here is a picture of the truck. post-7277-0-18407200-1443386489_thumb.jpg

Edited by '36 Glasstruck
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What did you use to unstick the engine?  If you used something like transmission fluid or similar, it might just be that stuff cooking out. Usually the white smoke that fills the neighborhood is related to coolant in the exhaust,light white smoke is usually oil based.  If it doesn't clean it self out after a couple of running cycles it might be related to valve guides or perhaps some broken rings happening during the unsticking process.  

 

I would let it run up to operating temp a few times to see if it lessens.  If not a compression test may reveal a loss of compression due to compromised rings.  If compression checks out ,anything above 70 psi, and within 10% give or take across the cylinders, would be acceptable for an engine of that age,

 

I would then hook up a vacuum gauge and see what that indicates.  Go to the Second Chance Garage web site and take a look at their how to page on reading and interpreting vacuum gauge readings.

 

Welcome to you and your neat old truck.  A few more pictures would be nice when you get a chance.

Edited by greg g
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Patrick,Welcome to the forum.Nice truck.You didn't mention cleaning the gas tank.Be very careful,after sitting that many years any varnish like residue remaining in the tank from old gas can cause problems if run through the engine.

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Thanks for the replies! To unstick the engine I poured engine oil, some diesel fuel, a can of seafoam and a bottle of mystery oil over the course of about a month. I would go out every couple days and rock the truck back and forth in second gear. Eventually I got some movement and then more ect. until it turned easily. After the motor was free I drained the oil pan and added new oil. I did check the compression before I tried starting it. I got about 95psi on every cylinder but #2 and #5 where I only got about 60psi. This was a dry test. I then put oil in each cylinder (which if I understand is kind of cheating) and with the oil test I was getting 120psi in most cylinders. I'll try and get some more pictures up soon.

Edit: Yes the fuel tank is very varnished inside. I used an external fuel tank to run the engine.

Edited by '36 Glasstruck
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Here are some more pictures of the truck. Sorry about the so-so lighting. I also have the hood which is in nice shape. The truck is 100% complete minus the spare wheel. My plans with the truck are to keep it original and get it into daily-driver shape. I plan to scotchbrite the body smooth, put a lot of turtle wax on it and drive it as is. I also threw around the idea of giving it a slight rake suspension-wise for a more commanding stance. But thats another thread and another day.

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I ran the truck again tonight. Made sure the oil was full first. It seemed to smoke a little less at idle but really smokes when I rev it. It smokes out the tail pipe and the lower breather tube. Not the oil fill tube though. There is no blow-by coming out the top oil fill tube whatsoever. The smoke I would say is white with a very faint blue tint. I ran it for about 25 minutes also running a bottle of Mystery oil through the carb before I shut it down. I'll let it sit overnight and see how it goes tomorrow. I hope the smoking can tame down because I'm really amazed at how good it runs. Even the initial start up was only a few revolutions and a little choking and it took right off. No odd engine noises to be heard. It really purrs.

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Im going to run the truck again tomorrow for a while and see what happens. After running it again I will check the compression once it cools back down. I am not noticing any water in the oil or drop in coolant level. I do not have any anti-freeze in it right now. Just straight water. In theory the headgasket should be good, as I understand it was a fine runner when parked. Im wondering if I busted a piston ring when I freed the engine or have a stuck valve or bad valve seals due to deterioration? Im not sure. But it does run really nice which is also kind of odd if it has some semi-serious internal problems.

I was wondering if anyone with a similar experience could shed some light? Someone who got a motor running that sat for a long period of time?

Edited by '36 Glasstruck
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Every time you dump oil into the cylinders it will end up in the exhaust system. Sometimes it can take a good heat cycle to burn it all out. That would probably require more than a half hour of idling. A half hour driving under load may be enough, if it's driveable.

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Im going to run the truck again tomorrow for a while and see what happens. After running it again I will check the compression once it cools back down. I am not noticing any water in the oil or drop in coolant level. I do not have any anti-freeze in it right now. Just straight water. In theory the headgasket should be good, as I understand it was a fine runner when parked. Im wondering if I busted a piston ring when I freed the engine or have a stuck valve or bad valve seals due to deterioration? Im not sure. But it does run really nice which is also kind of odd if it has some semi-serious internal problems.

I was wondering if anyone with a similar experience could shed some light? Someone who got a motor running that sat for a long period of time?

You are burning oil. Check this by putting a piece of cardboard near the end of the exhaust pipe to see if the content of the smoke is watery or oily. Since you say it has a blue tint, it's likely oil. Some motors can sit for decades and fire right up with no problems at all, while some will need an hour or two of running to free up rings and burn out soot. Best thing to do is to drive it and check oil consumption carefully while watching the temps and oil pressure very closely.

To get the rake stance you want, install a set of air shocks in the rear. They work real well and are easy to install on this truck.

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Merle and Jeff you both make excellent points. I am jumping the gun on this. You are right, when I was trying to unstick the motor I was dumping so much stuff in that oil was even leaking out of the exaust pipe. There is probably a lot that needs to be burned out requiring more than an hour of idle running. Unfortunately the truck is not driveable due to the brakes. The brake pedal is stuck and one drum was seized as well. Im afraid a whole new brake system is in order. Perhaps I should start another thread on the brakes. Any pointers on massaging a brake system back to life?

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 Any pointers on massaging a brake system back to life?

 

Disassemble, inspect, and replace any questionable parts with new/rebuilt units. I also recommend replacing the brake lines if they are still original. They could be rotting from the inside out. Don't skimp on the brake system. They can save your life some day.

 

Merle

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Disassemble, inspect, and replace any questionable parts with new/rebuilt units. I also recommend replacing the brake lines if they are still original. They could be rotting from the inside out. Don't skimp on the brake system. They can save your life some day.

Merle

I recommend FedHill lines...will never rust and are easy to work with.

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I'd go with the advice that you were given on the copperized lines.  They're more expensive than steel lines to purchase, but you'll only do them once.  I'd also replace the two front and single rear rubber lines while you're in there.

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Hi everyone. Just to update the thread. I'm in the proccess of saving up for the brake job. I believe I will replace everything and buy all new. I'm not sure if there is a local place that can refurbish the brake shoes. I will definitely look into the copperized lines. I'm a little weary of setting the brakes as I've read that it's very tricky. If I can, I will try to buy an Ammco brake tool off ebay.

I plan to keep the truck stock regarding brakes, 6v wiring, charging system, ignition ect. I mean why not? The truck is complete. Might as well work with what is there. It did the job then.

I have a lot of work ahead of me. I have not touched the charging system nor do I have any knowledge of it. I will also buy a repro shop manual for the truck off ebay. Also ammeter gauge doesn't seem to be working. Lots sheathing missing of on the wiring etc etc. I will try to get the truck driveable and go from there. I really appreciate all the help and am very glad I joined this great forum.

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Patrick, I think you're headed in the right direction.  If I can offer my opinion:  Do one thing at a time, and look at each individual project (brakes, steering, engine, etc) as a piece  of the puzzle.  Don't let it overwhelm you, and keep it as close to running/driving as you can so that you can keep yourself motivated.  I've seen guys go gung ho and tear something completely apart saying they were going to do a first class frame off only to sell their unfinished project as a basket case at a significant financial loss.  Just my 2 cents, and I hope you do well and keep moving forward one step at a time.   Mike

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